John B.

Well-known Member
Neighbor called yesterday and asked me if I can get his 8N with a front mount distributor started. He put a new battery in it and said it's getting gas. I check to see if it had spark at the spark plugs and it had none. Checked the ignition wire with my test light leading to the coil while it was cranking and it didn't go off and on while the points were opening. This told me the points were not making contact. If they were making good contact the test light would of went off and on but it didn't. So we pull the distributor out and put in a new set of points. We then found out the new points wouldn't even touch the lobes on the shaft. So they didn't open. Well we ended up buying a new distributor today for $200 and the lobes on that distributor were almost non-existent and the points only made continuity on 3 of the 4 lobes. I've never seen anything like this. Has anyone else had this problem?
 
Haven't run into this particular problem, but it's not uncommon for imported aftermarket parts to have problems.

Can you return the distributor and reinvest the money in an electronic conversion? Be done with points and pulling the distributor for good!
 
I had a problem with cap and rotor not matching. Had to buy a new rotor and grind down the end to fit the cap. Also had what you found on the new one. I believe who ever is rebuilding the things. Has very poor quality control.Maybe they need a brighter light bulb over the workbench
 
That thought crossed my mind. I haven't researched the electronic ignition yet but I will.
 
Had that problem on a old IHC pickup years ago. DIDN'T DO IT, but thought about grinding flat side of dist cam. A farmer has to just get it done. lol
 
EI is cheaper than a new distributer.
Pertronix says your air gap between the magnet can be from .005 to .060 so no need to replace bushings either.
 
WHY would you expect the test light to go on and off when probing the power wire to the coil on a front-mount "N"?

Vary in brightness, YES, but flash on and off, NO, since the breaker point side of the coil primary is NOT externally accessible on that system.

So you bought a new $200 distributor from "The Land of Almost Right" because the new set of points you installed, also (apparently) from "the Land of Almost Right" were so far off dimensionally they didn't work/couldn't be correctly adjusted?

Bottom line is, get some good points, put 'em in the old distributor and fire 'er up!

Even with BADLY worn distributor bushings, an engine will at least RUN, if not perfectly.
 
I had the same problem with new points on Ferguson TO20 - I trashed the Chinese points and replaced with Blue Streak (Standard Motor Parts, Inc.) The Ferguson greatly appreciated the new points and runs great!
 
I started using the Pertronix kits years ago. Best thing I ever did.Easy to install and greatly improves the engine running.
 
Billy, do they make a 6v electronic ignition kit? One of my two personal pet peeves is distributers on tractors that didn't use them (green front hubs on JD being the other lol). I'd be interested in switching over as our 2n dist.is gettin' a lil questionable, but I don't wanna go 12v. Thanks Pete
 
ive never seen it, but ive heard of it happening, the usual problem with those is the bushings get worn , and the points wont adjust or stay adjusted, 200 every 70 years for the old ford isnt too bad, you can read days worth of debate on the electronic conversions for the n series, the most of it seems to be once done its problems from then on, and being as it is no longer a stock setup your the only one that can fix it as your the only one that knows how the conversion was done,and wired up, id leave it factory, its simple, and if it breaks down once in a great while, its easy to fix, and many there can talk you thru the diagnosis, if your running the original ford stuff
 

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