Trying to get the 530 running

Been here awhile,but just reading.It's been 5-6 years setting,
replaced a tube,plus cleaning up the rim.New carb kit,still no start.Rotor was rusted on .so it cracked getting it off.New ign. kit ordered.I noticed looking at the wiring dia.that the bat . terminal on the coil goes to the dist.Is this because of the positive ground?
What is the reason for the positive ground?
Thought about an altenator,but allI've seen are neg. ground.
Or is the starter the issue here?
The oil pressure gauge didn't work either,what's the T fitting for in the oil pressure line.
One more question ,will the remote cylinder circuit run a log splitter with the control on the splitter and the tractor remote handle held open(engaged)?
thanks jim
 
On the last question, the answer is yes, you can run a log splitter just the way you described. You might have to wire the handle forward otherwise when you hit a tough log it will trip out, but I helped my dad split numerous cords of wood with our 520 running the splitter just like you mentioned.
 
All Two Cylinder Deere gas tractors were Pos ground.

Coil polarity should match battery polarity, i.e. if its Pos ground, the coils + wires to dist where it gets it frame ground when points are closed.

The starter still turns the same direction at either polarity.

YES most alternators require Neg ground.

John T
 
The tractor has a oil pressure fuel shut off.
If the tractor has Oil pressure it will open
a valve that allow"s fuel to pass threw the
sediment bulb.
 
On the log splitter question - I use the tractor valve to work the splitter on my JD 630 - I don't have a second valve. I tacked a metal tab on the handle, and ran a rod back to the work area. If you didn't want to weld on your handle, you could easily make a clamp-on bracket with a hole in it. I worried about wearing out the tractor valve, but after using it like that for 35+ years I've quit worrying.
 
Thanks for all the info.Got the ign.parts and it runs,but when I hit the remote cylinder lever,oil bath.
Well went and diss.the 3 point and loosened it up .That was because the tube wouldn't come out of it's housing.I mean I could hardly find the quick disconnect,caked on dirt ect.
New hoses and back together.
That blocked off t fitting on the oil line,IMO was to allow
hooking up the oil pressure gauge,as you would never pull the dash with a 1 piece steel line.
Question I did the polarity thing on the gen,but not getting a reading on the amp gauge,How do I check the gens out put?
Thanks jim
 
Does your tractor have an automatic fuel shut off? That could account for the T-fitting in the oil line. One side goes to the oil pressure gauge, and the other goes to the fuel shut off (sediment bowl). If the automatic shut off has been removed, that side of the T fitting would be capped off.
 

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