Permatex in place of gasket

bigboreG

Member
Ok to use Black Permatex instead of a gasket for a trans cover on tractor? No pressure there, just 140W gear oil. Just need the one gasket, and it is only available in a $240 set. Not gonna spend that, and its not a show tractor.
 
Works fine....so does thick paper, if a "real" gasket fits your comfort zone. Manila folder 101! Or sheet cork/other gasket from auto stores. You have plenty of good options, especially when it"s a no pressure zone.
 
It'll work, just hope you're not the next guy to have to take it off again. OR you could get some gasket paper and make one.
 
Good deal and some great options thanks. If I used paper or gasket material, what do you think of taking a cheap 12 point deep well socket that matches the size of the bolt hole, grinding the open end sharp, and using it as a punch to cut the holes in the gasket material?
 
Not sure of the color coding of Permatex, but I always use the non-hardening type, and don't have any problems with leaks, or getting stuff apart again. For a transmission cover, I would make a gasket with heavy paper (used to use catalog covers, they aren't around anymore- someone mentioned manila file folder, that would work fine) and ball peen hammer, and then use non-hardening permatex.
 
I once had an oil pan on a car engine, I just couldn't get it to seal, always leaked. I finally got mad and an a bead of blue permatex around it and let it setup over night. Next day put the pan on. It sealed it tight, no leaks. Been a fan of Blue ever since.

Just don't use so much it squeezes out much. It will put silicone worms in the oil.
 
For an application like a top cover, two machined surfaces going together, Permatex, aviation sealer, or silicone will work.

For a sheet metal to machined surface, silicone will work. I prefer the automotive high heat over the household type.

But... Sometimes the "gasket" is really a "shim" in applications like bearing housings, gear cases, etc. The gasket is there to set bearing preloads or internal clearances. Be careful what you put back!
 
Assuming you are talking about RTV silicone. If you are talking about the permatex that uses a brush to apply this is for use with gaskets not a gasket replacement.

I do it all the time. My preference is the red but that really doesn't make a difference here.

Couple of tips to make sure you don't plug up intake screens and have a leak free repair.

1. Make sure everything is clean. Clean the surfaces mechanically then before you apply spray down with aerosol carb cleaner, let that dry (DO NOT WIPE OFF) then apply sealer.

2. When applying the sealer lay out a small bead and smooth with a clean finger. Let it skin over lightly before assembling the parts. You should get small bubbles as you tighten things up. Wait 24 hours before cutting these off and they will come off with a knife easy.

As others have said dis assembly in the future will be hindered if you properly apply.

One important note here though. Is the part you are putting on dependent on the gasket for shaft/bearing clearance. If it is you pretty much better grin and bear the set and go that route.

HTH

jt
 
Sure it will work but Im not much of a fan of silicone for gaskets. For machined surfaces I would prefer to use a gasket maker called The Right Stuff, it is made by permatex and can hold up to about anything and stay sealed for a long time.
 
can you not cut one out of gasket paper or poster baord. card stock.. etc.

ball peen hammer and paper usually makes it easy to tap out a gasket.

if I HAD to go goop, and had NO other choice.... use 'the right stuff.'
 
As someone mentioned already, You need what is commonly called RTV sealer. There are about four different types each is color coded, you can read the instructions before you buy. Most common applications use the blue type. You will be surprised at the number of automotive applications that require RTV sealant to replace a gasket. For example, the cover plate for the differential on most Ford rear wheel drive vehicles for about twenty years, since there is not replacement gasket available. Factory instructions, use RTV sealant.
 
Hold the gasket material in place on top of the transmission. Use a small ball peen hammer to cut a bolt hole opening. Screw a bolt in part way. Move to the next hole and make a hole and screw in a bolt. Keep going around the gasket until all the holes are cut. Then use the hammer to cut the inside and outside of the gasket.
 
I buy gasket material from local bearing place. Buy it by the foot, comes in 3 ft. wide rolls. Last piece I bought cost $11. I did the side cover on a G JD, the rear cover, transmission top cover and a bunch of smaller ones. Still have a hunk left.
 
40 years as industrial mechanic at a steel mill, have sealed many gearboxes and over the years have gone from gaskets, to permatex to clear silicone
now we only use Loctite Ultra Blue silicone
they NEVER leak ! ever !
bob
 
Where are you located? I used to buy gasket paper off the roll from an auto parts store here but they don't sell it anymore.
 
If you use silicone (RTV) at least use black, red, or copper. The others are not oil resistant. Per a Loctite representative, when asked at a Gathering of the Green what the difference was between clear, white and blue, he smiled and said "the color". He also said they were not designed to be oil resistant. Apparently everyone's favorite color is blue because you see it so much. But it's not the best stuff to use next to oil. Mike
 
I'm by Sioux Falls, SD. I get it from a place called Malloy Electric.
605-336-3693
 
my 0.02 worth. What ever you use, wipe clean with alchol or brake clean and make it chemical clean so the silicone will stick.
 
Had to remove the transmission cover of a pretty new DEERE utility a while back. Never been off before. No gasket, just black RTV.
 

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