- Thread starter Mtractor
- Start date
james schneider
New User
go to your auto parts store, ask them to hook up there scan tool and give you the code that is set.then go online and google the code for your truck. all the info you should need.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
get a sticker and cover it up
Based on my experience with 2 vehicles that have done that, it's probably a leak in your evaporative system. My Chev S-10 had the light come on and the shop that services my vehicles ran a smoke test on it. They pumped smoke throughout the evaporative system to find leaks and they found a pinhole leak in the gas filler neck. Replaced the filler neck and the light went out. On my Chrysler Pacifica, the light came on and the shop told me, according to the computer, it was a leak in the evaporative system. Shop owner told me I could continue driving it and nothing would be damaged. However, after driving that way for a couple of years, I had the spark plugs replaced and the light went out. Odd. No bright red dash warning light on either vehicle now.
buickanddeere
Well-known Member
Smart
Paying attention to the trouble light could save mpg and prevent engine damage.
Paying attention to the trouble light could save mpg and prevent engine damage.
Dieseltech
Well-known Member
- Location
- Akron, Indiana
My truck will show the codes ,if any with the key switch, off-on-off-on-off-on, after the 3rd time code will appear at the odometer, most start with P, then 4 digits. Worth a try.
Ah yes the free code scan at the auto parts store which usually leads you to buy a part that doesn"t fix the problem so you throw a few more at it , then end up finally taking it to the place you should have in the first place , to actually find out the real cause and repair it. Usually for less than you spent "saving money". Only seen that happen a couple hundred times. And clearing the code fixes nothing , but will erase stored information that would have helped someone who knows what he is doing diagnose the problem. Sorry for my rant, but this drives me nuts being a dealership tech. We are not all dishonest....really. I have seen so many people buy all sorts of parts and then finally bring it in to find out what is actually wrong , and usually get it fixed for a fraction of what they have already wasted not fixing it. Seen lots of shiny new oxygen sensors that didn"t fix vacuum leaks......
T in NE
Well-known Member
- Location
- Cambridge, Nebraska
If it"s got a DPF it"s probably got to come off for cleaning.
Evaporative emissions on a diesel??????
Evaporative emissions on a diesel??????
T in NE
Well-known Member
- Location
- Cambridge, Nebraska
Don't keep up that close with the newer ones. Does it have EGR? That could be plugged too.
Found on a Dodge/Cummins Forum:
"P0071 Ambient Temperature Sensor Performance / Rationality
The ambient temperature sensor is a variable resistor
mounted to a bracket that is secured with a screw to
the left side of the radiator yoke, behind the radiator
grille and in front of the engine compartment.
The ambient temperature sensor cannot be adjusted
or repaired and, if inoperative or damaged, it must be
replaced.
Open the hood and look on drivers side between intercooler and headlight. It should be very easy to get to. It measures outside temperature and tells the ECM what the temperature is. Might be dirty/etc."
"P0071 Ambient Temperature Sensor Performance / Rationality
The ambient temperature sensor is a variable resistor
mounted to a bracket that is secured with a screw to
the left side of the radiator yoke, behind the radiator
grille and in front of the engine compartment.
The ambient temperature sensor cannot be adjusted
or repaired and, if inoperative or damaged, it must be
replaced.
Open the hood and look on drivers side between intercooler and headlight. It should be very easy to get to. It measures outside temperature and tells the ECM what the temperature is. Might be dirty/etc."
As long as oil pressure and engine temp is fine I pay no attention to check engine light, brake light or abs in my Dakota, the brakes work fine, but light comes on, abs is out and I'm not replacing it. My wife just bought a 2012 forrester no oil pressure gauge or temp gauge?
T in NE
Well-known Member
- Location
- Cambridge, Nebraska
I think 2011 may have been the last year without def. I know it's being used in the new ones.
Lou from Wi.
Well-known Member
robgIN,
Read you post with interest,buttttttt, dealers aren't always that honest. Take for an example, the wiring harness on our 1995 GMC Sierra, it developed a failure to engage into OD unless you pounded on top the dashboard, then it would light up and go into gear.Called the dealer,made appointment to bring the truck in for repairs,got a quote from a WOMAN at the service desk on the price for the repair,bad wiring harness. I said OK do it, took a loaner vehicle and went to lunch,my Son and I, who are big statured men. I asked the woman who brought the car around "where was the grease and spoon?" was told to replace what gas we used. Only drove 4 blocks down the road to restaurant and back.
Service mechanic was just finishing up putting a new harness in, I asked for the old part back.He said Ok,and took us back up front to woman service manager, she then quoted me a price $300.00 over what was originally quoted.
Her question was "Hows that" My reply was "no, stick with the original quote".
You know what her reply was?
"My boss always told me to use a calculator, but I didn't use the calculator this time". Told her it is not my problem,and I only paid the original quoted price.
Came home, wrote a letter to GM telling them , you have a dishonest dealer who employs people you can't trust to follow directions. 3 days later, GM rep called me and explained it was an honest mistake. My reply was Oh No, I asked him if you had an employee that was told to use a calculator to figure repairs and they tried to use their head figures, you would take them by the hand to the time card and that would be the end of the bait and switch prices. Anyway, what I found was a wire in one of the plug ends on the harness was broken loose and could have been re soldered with solder and a continuity meter checked, thereby saving a valued customer money.
Now I know I should have done larger spacing between paragraphs and will be chided by the English professors here on YT,like was told on my past post.
I do know all dealers aren't that way,and keeps a tight and honest reign on his employees making customers happy.
I also know most people prefer to fix the problem themselves and most can fix it right saving money.
Could also tell you about our 86 F150 emission light,and Fords little secret to get you into the garage,when all that was needed was 1/8" drill bit to reset the timer box for the emissions light. Nothing was wrong with emissions, just was time for it to go off.
Talked to Ford mech, his reply was "I seen them go off as early 10k miles and as long as 150k miles". He was honest. I am sure a few Ford garages sold bunches of parts that wasn't necessary to reset the light.Customer would have never known that,just paid the bill, while mumbling out the door.Well anyway thats my story and I'm stuck with it.Thats why we do our own maintenance on our 6 vehicles and equipment(tractor & Cat).We've done several off body repair/rebuilds with success,so far.
LOU
Read you post with interest,buttttttt, dealers aren't always that honest. Take for an example, the wiring harness on our 1995 GMC Sierra, it developed a failure to engage into OD unless you pounded on top the dashboard, then it would light up and go into gear.Called the dealer,made appointment to bring the truck in for repairs,got a quote from a WOMAN at the service desk on the price for the repair,bad wiring harness. I said OK do it, took a loaner vehicle and went to lunch,my Son and I, who are big statured men. I asked the woman who brought the car around "where was the grease and spoon?" was told to replace what gas we used. Only drove 4 blocks down the road to restaurant and back.
Service mechanic was just finishing up putting a new harness in, I asked for the old part back.He said Ok,and took us back up front to woman service manager, she then quoted me a price $300.00 over what was originally quoted.
Her question was "Hows that" My reply was "no, stick with the original quote".
You know what her reply was?
"My boss always told me to use a calculator, but I didn't use the calculator this time". Told her it is not my problem,and I only paid the original quoted price.
Came home, wrote a letter to GM telling them , you have a dishonest dealer who employs people you can't trust to follow directions. 3 days later, GM rep called me and explained it was an honest mistake. My reply was Oh No, I asked him if you had an employee that was told to use a calculator to figure repairs and they tried to use their head figures, you would take them by the hand to the time card and that would be the end of the bait and switch prices. Anyway, what I found was a wire in one of the plug ends on the harness was broken loose and could have been re soldered with solder and a continuity meter checked, thereby saving a valued customer money.
Now I know I should have done larger spacing between paragraphs and will be chided by the English professors here on YT,like was told on my past post.
I do know all dealers aren't that way,and keeps a tight and honest reign on his employees making customers happy.
I also know most people prefer to fix the problem themselves and most can fix it right saving money.
Could also tell you about our 86 F150 emission light,and Fords little secret to get you into the garage,when all that was needed was 1/8" drill bit to reset the timer box for the emissions light. Nothing was wrong with emissions, just was time for it to go off.
Talked to Ford mech, his reply was "I seen them go off as early 10k miles and as long as 150k miles". He was honest. I am sure a few Ford garages sold bunches of parts that wasn't necessary to reset the light.Customer would have never known that,just paid the bill, while mumbling out the door.Well anyway thats my story and I'm stuck with it.Thats why we do our own maintenance on our 6 vehicles and equipment(tractor & Cat).We've done several off body repair/rebuilds with success,so far.
LOU
mab570diesel
Member
he first couple sentences i could have guessed you worked for a dealer i don't think i would take a 9yr. old truck to a dealer way too expensive maybe a mechanics but i don't see anything wrong with someone trying to fix their own vehicle not everyone can afford dealer prices i've seen plenty of vehicles go into a dealer and leave with the same problem over and over so it's not a guaranteed fix either not saying your dealership is such but it has happened plenty
jennifer408
Well-known Member
one time i took my truck in cause it was showing no oil pressure. and this elder gentleman was asking the guy that checks you in " YOUR GONNA CHARGE ME $30.00 JUST TO TELL ME I DID NOT SCREW MY GAS CAP ON RIGHT AND THAT'S WHY THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS ON ? " he was torqued, and i didn't blame him, i would be too.
For Diesels the code P0071 is the inlet air temp sensor (inlet air temp sensor rationality), not to be confused with intake air temp sensor (on intake by injector rail) or ambient air temp sensor (on LH side of core support between radiator and LH headlamp). The inlet air temp sensor is mounted to the air intake breather, right after the air filter box, I think a couple model years the sensor was on the filter box too.
Since the code came right back on after you cleared it with a battery disconnect, maybe the sensor is bad. There was also an old service bulletin to flash a new program the PCM/ECM for sensor rationality. That bulletin was published back in 2006, its possible your truck has never been to the dealer to have a newer flash but this could be the fix too.
Since the code came right back on after you cleared it with a battery disconnect, maybe the sensor is bad. There was also an old service bulletin to flash a new program the PCM/ECM for sensor rationality. That bulletin was published back in 2006, its possible your truck has never been to the dealer to have a newer flash but this could be the fix too.
Here in NYS a car newer than 1995 won't pass inspection if it has an emissions warning light on. There is supposed to be some sort of exception for some vehicles, but in the real world it never happens. So up here, we're real familiar with those pesky yellow "Check Engine" dash lights. My experience is this- 95% of the stuff I can take it to my trusted local garage and good old Wayne will diagnose the issue and usually get it figured out PDQ. The other 5% you have to take it to the dealer and let them put it on their machine that has the super secret codes. Then you shell out a gazillion dollars and 50% of the time they'll get it fixed, but there's only half a chance of that! :shock: Then we take it back to Wayne and he'll repair what the dealer (Ford) screwed up and finish putting the car back together. Last time it was a shield of some sort under the car they didn't re-attach.
That's pretty much the way it runs for me. It's partly just that particular Ford dealer who is looking like he's slowly letting the place got to pot. There's a Chevy dealer nearby that has a really, really good rep, but he's God awful expensive and you have to be pretty well off to buy one of their cars- whatever the sticker says, that's what you pay.
Actually, none of this has anything to do with the OP and his diesel problem, but auto repair issues bring out the whiner in all of us! :lol:
That's pretty much the way it runs for me. It's partly just that particular Ford dealer who is looking like he's slowly letting the place got to pot. There's a Chevy dealer nearby that has a really, really good rep, but he's God awful expensive and you have to be pretty well off to buy one of their cars- whatever the sticker says, that's what you pay.
Actually, none of this has anything to do with the OP and his diesel problem, but auto repair issues bring out the whiner in all of us! :lol:
There is a flash reprogram available for the truck, but the flash was from 2007. It is probably needed and includes several PCM enhancements. I would do the flash after flowchart diagnostics are performed for that code. As previous poster pointed out raw data is needed to accurately diagnose problem as quickly as possible, so leave the battery connected and let the data stream into the controller. You have received a lot of misinformation here. Gerard
The mechanic at the dealership is paid by the job. He had
to pull the car in, find the scan tool, set the tool up, read
the code, then go over possible causes which showed the
cap as the culprit. So the mechanic should work for free
and the dealership should use a $4K+ scantool for free?
How much work would you do for free?
to pull the car in, find the scan tool, set the tool up, read
the code, then go over possible causes which showed the
cap as the culprit. So the mechanic should work for free
and the dealership should use a $4K+ scantool for free?
How much work would you do for free?
buickanddeere
Well-known Member
have you noticed how often we have a baffled and now broke Bubba on this site. That has randomly replaced parts instead of trouble shooting?
Blackhole49
Well-known Member
- Location
- White Lake MI
Too bad you couldn"t have worked on Glenster"s ford.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
You nailed it dead on.
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