John Deere 4010 Roosa Masters injector pump problems???

BlaineF

Member
So here is a picture of the pump.I was wondering if the DBG in the top left corner of the tag is the model number?Was wanting to order seal kit and maybe a repair manual.Also after taking the little timing plate off and finding no black ground pieces.Am I still headed in the right direction in taking the pump off? Another few things we have found to be odd is. (1) I removed the fuel supply line to the top of the injector pump crank tractor then stop bubbles come out the fitting.(2) When everything is hooked up and you crank tractor then stop.I hear noises in the fuel tank.So was wondering if this is a sign the pump is having problems? Thanks again for your time.Blaine
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Have you tryed taking the line off after to fuel...not injecter... pump to see if it pumps out fuel..just a thot..Or maybe you already did
If your going to do your own work on your injector pump your way smarter than i..
but i do know there are some out there that can and you may be one who is able,,,...Most people take them ta a pump shop
:)
 
?? hard to say. but that noise in fuel tank could be fuel return. on this pump that is a good thing. what about fuel supply to pump?
 
Yes, it's a Stanadyne/Roosamaster DBGVC pump. DBG
and JDB pumps take the same seal kits. Here are
the prices I paid last time I ordered parts from
US Diesel in Texas.

JDB and DBG seal kit - Stanadyne # 24371 - Spaco #
U24371 $12.10

JDB pilot tube - Stanadyne # 16320 - Spaco #
U16320 $4.83

JDB pump vanes - kit # 20803 - Spaco # 09528

New style solid weight retainer - Stanadyne # 2043
$43.50


Wrench for taking out head-screw Stanadyne and
Deere #15499. Six teeth, roughly 5/16" on the OD
of the splines (.312”), and 1/4" on the ID. Or 8
mm OD and 6.3 MM ID.
Torx T-45 measures .306” OD.
CAN USE Stanadyne # 24992 in place of # 15499

Deere repair manual is SM-2045 (available on-line
in PDF).
 
If no "coffee grounds" in the timing port area, I would check a few other things before tearing it off.

Bubbles obviously = air. UNLESS the IP shaft seals are bad (which would lead to diesel fuel in the crankcase), there's gotta be another explanation for air getting in.

How full is the fuel tank? Obviously if it is near full, the fuel level is above the lift pump and the fuel filters and any leak that would admit air SHOULD be leaking after shutdown, either externally, or internally (fuel lift pump leaking into crankcase).

That being said, I have a 4020 I don't put many hours on a year, so there's not much fuel in the tank because I try to use up the summer fuel, then put #1 in for the winter, and the other way around.

For YEARS, if it sat a while, I'd have to use the manual primer, and bleed air out at the filters.

A couple of years ago, I finally replaced the lift pump (even though there was no evidence of diesel fuel leaking into the crankcase).

Problem solved.

I would take the return fitting/valve out of the pump cover, and check it for debris (there's a glass check ball in there), then temporarily install a length of clear tubing between the fitting and the return line and start it up and check for bubbles while it's running, indicating air is getting in the primary fuel system.

 
Can a JD 4010 be started with the Injector Pump installed 180 deg out of time? Thanks







(quoted from post at 21:12:19 02/06/14) Yes, it's a Stanadyne/Roosamaster DBGVC pump. DBG
and JDB pumps take the same seal kits. Here are
the prices I paid last time I ordered parts from
US Diesel in Texas.

JDB and DBG seal kit - Stanadyne # 24371 - Spaco #
U24371 $12.10

JDB pilot tube - Stanadyne # 16320 - Spaco #
U16320 $4.83

JDB pump vanes - kit # 20803 - Spaco # 09528

New style solid weight retainer - Stanadyne # 2043
$43.50


Wrench for taking out head-screw Stanadyne and
Deere #15499. Six teeth, roughly 5/16" on the OD
of the splines (.312”), and 1/4" on the ID. Or 8
mm OD and 6.3 MM ID.
Torx T-45 measures .306” OD.
CAN USE Stanadyne # 24992 in place of # 15499

Deere repair manual is SM-2045 (available on-line
in PDF).
 
Thanks.
I haven't had a chance to turn it 180 deg around yet to see, but I have had it running for a while at a time without it preforming. I have to use Starting fluid to start it as in metered enough to build an RPM. If I place my hand over the air intake pipe I believe it pulls to much fuel and during the compression stroke it near locks up. I think it is running on residue fluid of the 180 out. Blue smoke is fairly thick.
After about 30 minutes it will pass that point and clear out. But it still takes starting fluid to start it. When I pull the throttle wide open and then decrease it - it will die. If I maintain the starting RPM and don't change it it will set there run but varies in RPM's once in a while like one which is showing a need for a rebuild. I may have a bad rebuild. It will be a couple of weeks before i get back to it.
Thanks again for you Time.



(quoted from post at 13:54:50 02/19/14)
No it will not start with inj pump 180 degrees out of time.
 

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