Trimming Vinyl Windows

in-too-deep

Well-known Member
Morning! I put in a couple new vinyl windows this fall and will do the rest in the spring. These are new construction windows. What's the best way to build the 1x trim to fill the R.O. come out flush with the drywall? I hear guys rip the lumber to get the right depth, building a box on a bench, and gluing it the the vinyl and nailing it in place to the framing. Foam around the R.O. and slap the casing on. How would you handle it? What kinda glue to stick would to that smooth vinyl? Hot-glue so it' s not so messy?
 
I used a vinyl jamb wrap made just for that by Trim-Tex on all my houses. Prescored for different jamb depths and is textured white and accepts latex paint to match your walls. Also have j's, bullnoses, coves, etc. Inexpensive and fast. Any independent lumberyard or drywall supply should carry the Trim-Tex line.
 
1) No glue.
2) Don't use glue.
3) Did I mention don't use any bloody glue?
4) You are correct in building a box. Then shim the box into place on the sides, top and bottom and nail them to the rough opening.
If you wish you can drill holes and use long sheetrock screws through the box to attach it to the vinyl.
Probably 3 per side would be sufficient.
Make sure you place the screws so the casing will cover them.
Then foam the boxes in with the minimal expanding foam - Blue can.
Let the foam set up, trim it as needed then attach your casing.
5) People don't seem to understand - or maybe care, that some day those windows (or whatever else they are remodeling) will get torn out and replaced again.
Glues from a dumb DIYer are the worst headache of most remodelers life.
 
I understand what you mean about no glue. I've found some real head-scratchers other folks have done to my house. The only reason I would like to use an adhesive product, is that most of my openings are all screwy sizes and out-of-square. I'd have to cut little furring strips plus shims to make anything stay put. I'm afraid it'll take me a whole day to do one window. I'm tempted to use 4 dots of hot-glue and shim up the bottom. I hate taking shortcuts, but I find myself struggling when it comes to woodworking.
 
I think for where you are asking about the ones in my house and many others just have the drywall ran right up to the vinyl window and then finished. No sill plates, or finish trim at all.
 
Do these windows have a 3/4" groove all the way around? If so, the way I saw it done was to install the window and foam with low expansion foam. Then build a box on a bench, nail the casing to it, and install it into the groove. Simply nail the casing to the wall, and your job is done. You should not have to foam around the box, because you foamed around the window.
 
I don't have the groove, but never thought of nailing the casing to it beforehand. That would be even slicker.
 
I rip the jamb stock to width, build the box, nail the casing to it while on the bench and install the whole thing as a unit, then nail thru the casing and the jamb into the framing. I foam the gap around the window prior, and use shims at least along the sill. The rest seems to hold up fine with just the nails for support. No need to glue it to the window. If doing painted trim, I will caulk it before painting. If stain grade, you sometimes have to scribe the jambs to any 'waves' in the windows. Or use a scribe moulding...



Ben
 
Sounds to me like everyone is over thinking this . Rip your 3/4 lumber down to width ( distance from window to outer edge of drywall ) cut to length and nail it to the rough opening don't attach it to the window . Do this all the way around the window . then you just cut and install the trim . stain or paint everything first , its easier . deluxe
 
I have had several windows put in my old house make sure you get casing windows they will fit right up to the old casing with no trim needed. Order your windows to fit your casings. I also have wood frames to match the old house they also warmer than the vinyl junk. Look around there are several companies that make them.
Walt
 
Rip your jamb extenders. Use a sanding block to knock the sharp corner off the edge that will show.

You can build your box on the bench, but I prefer to install the pieces individually.

NO need to fasten anything to the windows! In fact you may cause problems by doing so. The vinyl will expand and contract a lot more than the wood jamb extenders. Also, screwing the extenders to the window could void your warranty.

Use wood shims between the jamb extender and the framing. Nail the extenders so the nails go through the shims. I usually shim & nail the side extenders in 3 or 4 places unless the windows are very tall then they'll be shimmed in more places. I don't like the idea of installing the casings on the boxes on a bench because you can't use shims.

Use minimal expanding foam between the windows and the framing. You don't really need to insulate between the extenders and the framing, but I wait until the extenders are on before using the spray foam. I use a special gun but you can get the stuff in cans. Do NOT use the expanding foam.

Put your casings on once the foam has set up.

I like to stain and poly the extenders and trim before I install.
Once the nail holes are filled add another coat of polyurethane.

If you still feel the need to somehow stick the extenders and the windows together you can run a VERY SMALL bead of silicone caulk.

I almost forgot....when you install your casings be sure the nails you use to fasten to the extenders aren't so long as to go through the extender into the window.
 
Walt,
Hard telling how many semi loads of windows of every type of material and style of construction I've installed in the last 35+ years. Don't lump all vinyl windows as junk. There are junk vinyl windows just as there are junk wood, steel and aluminum windows. There are a number of manufacturers that make an excellent vinyl window.
When I put new windows in my own home I sprung for wood windows. If I had it to do over again I would have used Simonton vinyl windows as they are more energy efficient and cost less to boot.
 

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