Wet Sleeves

Jenny Lindsey · Feb 1, 2014

Hey guys,
I'm restoring a 1956 Case 300 Gasoline tractor and i have never pulled sleeves before and don't know how too is there a tool???

Anything helps

Eldon (WA) · Feb 1, 2014

(quoted from post at 23:29:46 01/31/14) Hey guys,
I'm restoring a 1956 Case 300 Gasoline tractor and i have never pulled sleeves before and don't know how too is there a tool???

Anything helps

I've done them a number of ways. If you have the engine apart and the crankshaft out you can drive them out with a hammer and a block of hard wood from the bottom. Turn the block over and set it on a couple of 4x4 blocks if you can.
You can also use a long piece of 3/4" threaded rod with a block on the bottom and a block bridged on the top and draw it up and out with a nut on the top (I would use this method if I was going to re-use the sleeves),
I would also think that you could use a piece of chain and drop it thru and wrap it around a block at the bottom and a long heavy pipe up above with a 4x4 as a fulcrum and basically use it like a big lever to pop them out. (I haven't tried this way yet).
They should come out fairly easy once they are flush with the bottom web as the O-rings will be out of the bore. Good luck!

Dr. Walt · Feb 1, 2014

Homemade sleeve puller ideas .

http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=toolt&th=309303

Hope this helps.

Doc

El Toro · Feb 1, 2014

Here's a sleeve puller. The wet sleeves shouldn't be as tight as the pressed sleeves. Hal

Dick L · Feb 1, 2014

If you have the engine out the fastest easy way to remove the wet sleeves is this way. A block of wood is much like a block of hard rubber except the wood will split and can cause damage. I use a piece of hot roll bar that puts the shock in the exact place I want it. I use a large enough hammer to give it solid shock. I have never damaged anything this way. Pullers work fine if you have them. I have nothing against pullers.

robgIN · Feb 1, 2014

you can make a puller with some 3/4 or inch threaded rod all you need is the "puck" to fit the bottom of the sleeve . The wood block may work if they have not been in too long or the block is clean and the previous owner used antifreeze , but most of the ones I have pulled came out HARD ! many I had tightened the puller as much as I could then had to use an air hammer or sledge from the bottom to pop them loose.
In the last pic I hade 2 pucks installed, one oversize, to break it loose, then took it off once it came loose , to clear the bore in the block. They don't all come out easy.

greygoat · Feb 1, 2014

I"ve had a "Snap-on" sleeve puller since the mid
1970"s. It cost over $100 then, and is probably
$300 now. It has an adjustable,(for width) top
part to spread the arms out, An "Acme Screw",
puller, and various "Hockey Puck" steel disks,
to fit almost any bore. Actually, it looks like a
fancy chrome version of the tool in "El Toro"s"
photo.

showcrop · Feb 1, 2014

These are some great examples of home made pullers. I will offer another piece of advice. Wet sleeves can be really tough to break loose. With the block upside down give them some penetrating oil for a few days to help the O-ring unstick from the rust. Then use two pullers, one with a lot of strength to break the sleeve free, then switch to the disc or a shaped piece of bar stock to bring it on out. I have made a few centered around a long 7/8 fine threaded bolt.

El Toro · Feb 1, 2014

Once you have those sleeves removed you need to remove the old seals & clean the block area of any crud and rust where the old seals were installed. When I did this Farmall A back in 1975 I pulled the engine and used a drill motor and a wire brush in the drill to clean that area. I also steam cleaned the block at work. It's hard to beat that steam for cleaning. Hal

PJH · Feb 1, 2014

My son and grand-daughter were working on her Farmall H. They got all of the sleeves out but one, and that last one was stubborn. I took one of the removed sleeves and made a short hollow "puck" out of it, about an inch long, with a guide that went inside the stuck sleeve to center and align it. Used 3/8" or 1/2" plate for the bottom of the puck. It worked good, cost nothing, and only used common tools that are in every little farm shop in the country.

Bad part is, you have to sacrifice a sleeve to make the puck, but they wanted new sleeves anyway.

Jenny Lindsey · Feb 1, 2014

How do I make the plate?

rrlund · Feb 1, 2014

I made one out of a piece of half inch plate. I cut it out with a torch then drilled a hole in the center. Precision shape and size isn't as critical with one for a wet sleeve as it is with a dry sleeve. There should be enough skirt on it to allow it to be a little larger than the outside diameter of the sleeve,and the sleeve should pop out before the disc gets up to the bottom of the block.

Dave Sherburne, NY · Feb 1, 2014

I had a Cockshutt 30 one time that I bought out of a pasture in Wi. Sleeves were really stuck couldn't get the pistons out. BUT the sleeves stuck down into the oil pan about 1/2" so after a lot of thought I built this sleeve pusher. The piece of rectangular tubing slipped over the rod and pushed on the bottom of the sleeve and when I tightened the nuts on the ready rod they popped right out. I had some 3/4" scrap steel to put on the top of the block to hold the piece across the top of the block up off the top of the engine.

VicS · Feb 1, 2014

All your pullers are good. But if you just start welding on them in a circular motion starting at the bottom and ending at the top or vice versa. It will shrink them and they will tap right out. Works on a bearing race also.

Wet Sleeves

Jenny Lindsey

New User

Eldon (WA)

Well-known Member

Dr. Walt

Well-known Member

El Toro

Well-known Member

Dick L

Well-known Member

robgIN

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greygoat

Well-known Member

showcrop

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El Toro

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PJH

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Jenny Lindsey

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rrlund

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Dave Sherburne, NY

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VicS

Well-known Member

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