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Removing Oliver 60 Rear Rim Seized onto Hub

M

mj

Well-known Member
Any body got a suggestion for getting a rear tire/rim off of a '37 Oliver 60 that's seized onto the hub? I've got some ATF soaking it right now and will probably resort to 'whompin' up' a puller before long but I'm hoping someone has been there/done that and been inspired to a better idea than any I've come up with so far! :?
 
Is it drivable?? Not sure of the system on it but most of the time you can loosen the bolts up then take it for a drive. When you hear popping stop and check it out. Good chance it has freed up. Done that to many times and one has to be careful so what I did was go forward and back but not real far
 
(quoted from post at 23:19:11 01/24/14) Is it drivable?? Not sure of the system on it but most of the time you can loosen the bolts up then take it for a drive. When you hear popping stop and check it out. Good chance it has freed up. Done that to many times and one has to be careful so what I did was go forward and back but not real far
Click to expand...

I figured you would have had this happen before! Thanks for the comeback - I tried driving it around with my fingers crossed but ...... no luck. In the morning I'm going to jack it up, park the Knipco under a tarp on that side and warm up the wheel (it's been pretty frosty in the mornings). MAYBE I can smack the rim all around with an 8-pounder before the hub warms up. :?

Thanks old, Cya!
 
I think you will need to bang on it with a sledge hammer. Be safe, it may jump off suddenly and they can hurt. After you have jacked the wheel up start banging on one side and than go to the other side and bang on that side. This may take some time so if you have a strong buddy have him or her give you a hand. It is best to hit the rim but be careful not to damage it.
 
Just did this last year on my Hart Parr 70. You need to heat sink the hub. It need's to be red hot let cool for 10-15 min and heat again . You may have to do this a couple times. If it has spokes for the rim you can chain thru and put a bottle jack on the end of the axle shaft and tighten and smack with hammer. I had to do all of it and still ruined a hub.
 
I had a UTS that the rear hub was rusted on the splines, I heated, pounded, pulled,-no luck. I gave up, found a parts tractor and replaced the axle and hub, that was a whole lot easier.
 
That may work but hard to stay. I have seen some that you had to take for a long drive and drove them like you had been drinking a lot before getting one them as in driver around in circles or figure 8s etc
 
You are thinking hub to axle, not pressed steel wheel to hub bolted on like your car wheel.
 
(quoted from post at 22:49:34 01/24/14) Any body got a suggestion for getting a rear tire/rim off of a '37 Oliver 60 that's seized onto the hub? I've got some ATF soaking it right now and will probably resort to 'whompin' up' a puller before long but I'm hoping someone has been there/done that and been inspired to a better idea than any I've come up with so far! :?
Click to expand...

Well, I did move the wheel a bit (I think) on the hub by heating the wheel with the weed-burner (the Knipco heated the whole thing, including the axle & hub) and beating on it with an 8# sledge BUT I finally took a 2' piece of 2 1/4 toolbar and drilled a couple of holes to match the wheel weight holes on the rim and put a couple of 1/2 x 8 " bolts thru both and centered the bar on the axle. I torqued the nuts down (80-100 ft/lbs) and then beat on the rim some more - nuttin' honey! So......I re-torqued the bolts and heated the wheel with the weed burner again - after a few seconds - POP! Re-torqued the bolts smacked the rim with the 8# and another 'POP' and she finally gave it up! Thanks to all of you boys for your suggestions! :D
 
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