- Thread starter Leroy
- Start date
buickanddeere
Well-known Member
That's for certain. Most people run around quoting LP, NG, and oil gross btu values before subtracting the 5-30% losses up the stack.
No fumes, smoke or flame in the house with electric.
Russ from MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Bemidji MN
A couple of years ago I did the math on temporary heat. 110 volt milk house style heaters give you more BTU's per $ than propane. I have a Remington 50,000 BTU. unvented heater and I pay $13 for filling 20 lb. tanks. This was for a short term construction project in a garage, I would never use the Remington in living space.
George what type of electric baseboard heater are you useing? Two 1500 watt are rated for 250 sq. ft. each thats only 500 sq.ft.. The main floor of my house is 1,000 sq.ft. and I am using 1-6 ft. 1,500 watt,2-4ft. 1,000 watt and 1 30" 500 watt ( half bath ) and all are 240 volt. According to manufacture these heater should only heat 650 sq.ft.total and I am heating 1,000 sq. ft. (70 degrees).
The second floor is 750 sq.ft.( 2 bedrooms & 1 full bath) heat it at between 68 & 70 degrees with 2-4 footers and 1 3foot in bathroom.
The second floor is 750 sq.ft.( 2 bedrooms & 1 full bath) heat it at between 68 & 70 degrees with 2-4 footers and 1 3foot in bathroom.
Geo-TH,In
Well-known Member
D beatty,
I'm bad, 2 8 ft heater from Menards. Each heater is 250w/ft. 16 ft = 4 kw. One 8 ft in the living room, one 8 ft in masterbed room. Like I said, I put heaters in everyroom. All is needed is just the two at -14 below. The walk-in has a 2 ft set at 50 so when door is closed, it has some heat, same with master bath, 2 ft set on 55. The rest of the house stays at 68 where the boss likes it. 15 inches of blown fiberglass in attic, R 20 walls, Low E windows, Insulated doors with storm windows. House is air tight too. When I remolded, the outside wall were calked from the inside.
I'm bad, 2 8 ft heater from Menards. Each heater is 250w/ft. 16 ft = 4 kw. One 8 ft in the living room, one 8 ft in masterbed room. Like I said, I put heaters in everyroom. All is needed is just the two at -14 below. The walk-in has a 2 ft set at 50 so when door is closed, it has some heat, same with master bath, 2 ft set on 55. The rest of the house stays at 68 where the boss likes it. 15 inches of blown fiberglass in attic, R 20 walls, Low E windows, Insulated doors with storm windows. House is air tight too. When I remolded, the outside wall were calked from the inside.
Geo-TH,In
Well-known Member
I added a 26x26 master bedroom, bath, laundry, walkin and sun room to the old house. Also gutted the old section, moved walls around, wired, insulated walls with r-13, put 3/4 foam insulation with aluminum on both sides, drywall over the foam, replaced all windows, doors. House is toasty, not drafty.
Geo-TH,In
Well-known Member
Not to mention losses in trunk lines, electricity to run blower motors.
Not sure if NIPSC, northern indiana public service company, which sells Natural gas and electricity, still does this, but they sell energy. The price of the gas and electricity is basically the same. So much for a therm.
Not sure if NIPSC, northern indiana public service company, which sells Natural gas and electricity, still does this, but they sell energy. The price of the gas and electricity is basically the same. So much for a therm.
I have 20" of rolled insulation in attic( up graded 2 years ago from 12" and all inside walls are insulated so I can shut off a room if we want( even sealing between first and second floor).Besides insulation in side walls we insulated the outside before bricking the house. All the windows are thermopain with triple tracks over them. All my heaters are Marley accept for one Cadet. To use wood stove in basement I have to open drier vent to the outside. Last months Electric bill was $240.00 thats heat, electric water heater,and electric clothes drier.
showcrop
Well-known Member
The catalytic non-vented heaters are perfectly safe for indoors provided you get one with O2 depletion auto shut down. They are 99.9% efficient. I have had one in my shop for eight years with a CO detector four feet away which has never gone off. My buddy has had one for the same length of time in the family room at his camp. They are not recommended for bedrooms, simply because of the possibility of malfunction in the small enclosed area.
Geo-TH,In
Well-known Member
I have a second house closer to town. In 2013, Jan-April and Nov and December. Total electric home, over 2200 ft, total electric bill for 6 months $1026, everything.
We just had record setting days. My last bill was for $34 days, record cold, no wood heat $300. $20 was sales tax. I'm not complaining. Sure would like to get out of the deep freeze.
We just had record setting days. My last bill was for $34 days, record cold, no wood heat $300. $20 was sales tax. I'm not complaining. Sure would like to get out of the deep freeze.
Texasmark1
Well-known Member
Know from school that the #1 room conditioning problem is condition loss due to air exchanges. Okaye.....so we seal up our houses nice and tight. Great for efficiency, but er ah we do have to breathe!
So I have an O2 sensor in the bedroom and on good days open the house and use the attic fan for a quick O2 refresher.
Problem with electric is power loss due to whatever, weather, car hits a utility pole, grid lock, etc. I do have a couple of backup gasoline generators which I used in the last ice storm where power was out for 4 days. But since it's portable, it is clumsy and limited to what I plug into the extension cord.
I use my wood stove as primary (requiring outside air but I can shut that off if not in use), LP radiant wall heaters 95% or so efficient with an O2 sensor built in (shuts it off if low) and in the BR electric oil radiators since they are safe and quiet....no fan, natural convection. If I loose power no biggie with them. Cook stove and hot water are also Propane.
Had neighbors with all electric and no gen and their places were a real mess with frozen pipes and all, not to mention no nothing during the outage.
My 2c,
Mark
So I have an O2 sensor in the bedroom and on good days open the house and use the attic fan for a quick O2 refresher.
Problem with electric is power loss due to whatever, weather, car hits a utility pole, grid lock, etc. I do have a couple of backup gasoline generators which I used in the last ice storm where power was out for 4 days. But since it's portable, it is clumsy and limited to what I plug into the extension cord.
I use my wood stove as primary (requiring outside air but I can shut that off if not in use), LP radiant wall heaters 95% or so efficient with an O2 sensor built in (shuts it off if low) and in the BR electric oil radiators since they are safe and quiet....no fan, natural convection. If I loose power no biggie with them. Cook stove and hot water are also Propane.
Had neighbors with all electric and no gen and their places were a real mess with frozen pipes and all, not to mention no nothing during the outage.
My 2c,
Mark
Geo-TH,In
Well-known Member
Exactly, a wood burner requires more combustion air which bring in through air leaks in house. When you warm up cold outside air, you dry it out and in some cases it gets so dry, you get a nose bleed.
Other things that cause hi humidity in a house is some people vent the clothes dryer inside the house. Steamy hot showers. Water coming through basement floors. To test for water coming through concrete, cover floor with plastic. Water will condense on plastic showing you need to seal floor and possibly the block.
I would suggest you put furnace fan on manual and circulate the air 24/7. Remove curtains from windows in the day time to dry windows. Heat runs should be located under windows to prevent condensation.
If drywall is wet, you have a formula for mold, indoor air pollution, not good. Another cause for wet dry wall you may have no insulation behind it. Keep the drywall dry or you will have black spots growing, mold.
Solution, dehumidifyer or bring in a little cold air.
Let us know if anything above works for you.
George
Other things that cause hi humidity in a house is some people vent the clothes dryer inside the house. Steamy hot showers. Water coming through basement floors. To test for water coming through concrete, cover floor with plastic. Water will condense on plastic showing you need to seal floor and possibly the block.
I would suggest you put furnace fan on manual and circulate the air 24/7. Remove curtains from windows in the day time to dry windows. Heat runs should be located under windows to prevent condensation.
If drywall is wet, you have a formula for mold, indoor air pollution, not good. Another cause for wet dry wall you may have no insulation behind it. Keep the drywall dry or you will have black spots growing, mold.
Solution, dehumidifyer or bring in a little cold air.
Let us know if anything above works for you.
George
buickanddeere
Well-known Member
That is why the building code requires a heat exchanger equipped fresh air source and stale air exhaust.
buickanddeere
Well-known Member
If LP costs $5.00 per gallon and the furnace is a typical 75% unit.
Your LP heat costs the same as if electricity was 25 cents per Kw.
Your LP heat costs the same as if electricity was 25 cents per Kw.
Geo-TH,In
Well-known Member
Yes, manual fan measn fan runs 24/7. The thermostat will still work and turn burner when needed.
I think my sons new train heat pump will run the fan on low 24/7 to circulate the air in house. Makes a more even heat. When pump kicks on, fan will increase speed.
Try it and report back.
I think my sons new train heat pump will run the fan on low 24/7 to circulate the air in house. Makes a more even heat. When pump kicks on, fan will increase speed.
Try it and report back.
buickanddeere
Well-known Member
They should or common sense by the owner would mandate it anyways.
We put smoke detectors in the house long before it was law.
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