help from some of you GM guys.

Greg K · Jan 11, 2014

My work van broke down last night and I'm finally getting time to work on it now. It is a 2000 chevy 3500 express van with a 5.7 liyer engine. Turns out one of the screws holding the rotor in place in the distributor came out and let the rotor and cap self destruct. I picked up a new rotor and cap and installed it. However I can turn the rotor by hand without the center shaft turning. How do I get it back in time and did I shear off a key.

gregger · Jan 11, 2014

oh boy -- on older chevys you could take valve cover off and watch the valves on # 1 cyl. -- being a van is not gonna help not much room -- can take out # 1 spark plug and with a peace of wire see when # 1 cyl. is at top -- then look at timing mark -- might wanta google ( timing a chevy v8 ) -- there is a gear on end of shaft that drives the oil pump off the cam on older V8"s --

mite-help · Jan 11, 2014

I think your best bet is another dist. assy. a reman isn't that expensive. whatever sheared is going to require removal anyway---probably what isn't broke is going to be bent---hopefully it didn't hang bad enough to strip drive gear & cam cuz that's another chapter. good luck-

Allan in NE · Jan 11, 2014

Pull the rotor back off and look at the shaft; bet there is still a piece of 'plastic' in the index slot and you're not getting the rotor clear down?

Allan

Goose · Jan 11, 2014

I agree with Allen. Sounds like something is keeping the rotor from seating all the way.

farmer boy · Jan 11, 2014

I don't know much about these engines. When I changed the ignition parts on a Vortec 305, everything came apart and went together nicely. I

If you pull the distributor on an early Vortec, you need a pretty decent scan tool to time it correctly on re-install. Cam retard must be +-2degrees.

Greg K · Jan 11, 2014

OK, a little update. The rotor on the distributor is only for the air gap for the spark. It has nothing to do with timing. The rotor can only go on one way, but the plate it screws to is turning on the shaft. I found the timing mark and indicator on the front of the engine and set my rotor up to match that. First time I was 180° off, the next try it fired up and ran fine after an initial sputtering which could have been caused by flooding. I still have not been able to find out if there is a key or other means of keeping the rotor in a fixed position. The plate that the rotor attaches to is just a stamped tin piece with no outward indication of a keyway or pin. Thanks for the help so far guys.

ss55 · Jan 11, 2014

What Allen said sounds right. That would also be the least expensive thing to fix, you already have a new rotor.

RusselAZ · Jan 11, 2014

The plate the rotor is driven by is only pressed on the shaft. Once they have slipped the are junk. Get a replacement distributor. Then to set the cam retard you will have to use a scan tool. The distributor's main function is to send spark to the right cylinder.

ShadetreeRet · Jan 11, 2014

Greg, I am not experienced on GM, but if the plate that the rotor attaches to is what I am thinking, I believe it is pressed onto the shaft with little or nothing else to hold it in place. Just a thought.

Hobo,NC · Jan 11, 2014

I hope you got a OEM cap...

Sprint 6 · Jan 11, 2014

If you insist on setting yourself up for another break down, put the engine on TDC and point the rotor tip at the number 8 stamped in the housing. Chances are it will just come back off, probably when you need the vanthe worst.

Aftermarket new distributors are available for about $150 or less. They even have an upgraded aluminium housing versus the OE plastic.

Blackhole49 · Jan 12, 2014

I agree with everyone who said rebuilt distributor. As a temporary fix, maybe you can use a puncture wound punch to hold the plate in place.

Bob · Jan 12, 2014

Allen is correct, pre-1996 or so.

help from some of you GM guys.

Greg K

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gregger

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mite-help

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Allan in NE

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Goose

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farmer boy

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Greg K

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ss55

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ShadetreeRet

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Hobo,NC

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