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chain saw bar

Stihl says for a MS391 a 16"-20" bar. I owen a MS310 which is basically the same saw with just a little less HP. and I like the 18" over the 20" seams to cut faster with the 18" bar.
 
20'' bar is all I would put on. ms 391 is a farm/ranch saw NOT A PRO saw if your chain is not real sharp they tend to overheat with longer bar cutting big wood.
 
You will have to get the correct width chain to match the bar width. Updated version is the 0.50"

They have to match one another, chain & bar.
 
Stihl recommends #3624 (33 r23 72) oilomatic saw chain and 20" 3003 008 8921 Stihl Rollomatic Ematic guide bar combination. This was taken from Stihl MS391 spec. sheet.
 
i wouldnt go more than a 20 inch bar, personally i dont like long bars as they tend to be hard to manage, i once traded for a no telling how old poulan 3000, now this is not the poulan throw away cheap box store saw, this thing looked like a kawasaki dirt bike engine, with a bar and chain hung on it, it was huge! the bar was a honest 36 inches long, the thing weighed in around 50 lbs, it looked impressive sitting on the flatbed truck but would wear me out fast using it, and it took 2 people just to get it started , ive never seen another like it since
 
Are you sure it was a Poulan 3000? The puolan 3000 came out in 1986 and weighed almost 15 lbs. with a 20" bar.
 
I have a 16,18, and 20 for my MS310. Just got the 20 inch and really like it for the bigger stuff.

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Get all my replacement parts from Bailey's. They ship super fast with reasonable prices. I do not use the chains from the big box stores (or even John Deere) with all the anti kick back features.
 
i like the 20" bar on anything, you don"t have to bend over so far, the 16 inch I have rarely gets used, if power is a problem just don"t push so hard
 
I use Bailey's for my chain saw parts. I have 3; the gas one is the MS170 Stihl with the max 16" bar. I have bars, chains, and now files coming from them. I think I have mastered the hand sharpening technique. I am thrilled.

Mark
 
The MS391 is a 64cc/3.9ci saw. You should be fine with a 20" .375 gauge bar. You could go with a .325 gauge chain too which is a little narrower. I find a 20" bar balances better for me than shorter bars on saws that size. I run a 20" on my 028 super. As long as I don't bury it and keep it sharp it's fine. My old back appreciates not having to bend over another 2-4"!
 
yes it said 3000 on it unless something was missing, wish i had taken a pic of that thing just thinking maybe the cover was not the original one but this saw was much older than the 80's probably '60s. or late 50's strictly old school , manual oiler ect, now i wonder what it really was..... whaver its sheer size was impressive, once it was running its power was unbelieable, untill it made me too tired to pick it up...
 
The old saws were heavy . Dad had a McCullough Super55 that he bought back in the late 50's. That saw was a 7 HP gear driven saw with a 27" bar with what they called a skip tooth chain. That saw weighed 27 lbs. dry. He also had a Homelite a Super 925XL with a 36" bar and was direct drive. Both of these saws were a hand full compared the same size saw today.
 
A 391 should easily handle a 20" bar for anything but professional work.

I've had both 029 and 290s with 20" bars.

The 029/290 can be easily overloaded with a 20" bar but suffices for my purposes.

The 391 is considerably more powerful than the 290 but does use a more agressive chain.

Dean
 
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