Yes I need new rims but I am cheep and these tires still have a little life left in them. When the tires just have to be replaced I will buy mounted tires on new rims. This is how I made due till then............

Not real bad to start with

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So I took the tire off the rim.

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The more I tried to grind out or weld up the bad spot the worse it got. So I resorted to welding in a new piece of steel; forming it to the rim shape and grinding edges smooth.

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Here is what it looked like from the outside.

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Then I sanded; put some rust inhibitor on and primed the rim.

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Then I cut up the old tube and stuck it to the rim with spray adhesive.

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Went to a good spot in the rim and with enough heat was able to get a flat spot made for the valve stem.

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Installed puncture retarder liner that goes between the tube and tire.

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Mounted the tire and installer on tractor.
On to next project getting steering box repaired.
 
That's the same basic way I fix mine too John.
The flat spot for the valve stem is nice, but not necessary
so it doesn't have to be perfect by any means.
Look like Ferguson rims? Maybe on a Ford?
Not a lot of weight there to worry about.
Mine have been fine even loaded with CaCl for several years now.
Hope they last as well for you too.
 

I like to cut out the thin part so that I can fit the new piece in and weld a butt joint instead of overlapping. I am fortunate to have a piece of metal that already has just the right curve to fit in there.
 
I just finished doing a pair of rims for my neighbor. We put the tires back on Friday. I have a couple of semi-rotted rims that still have some sound metal on them. I cut patches out of them, and have an easily fitted shape to use. It makes repairs around the bead much easier.
 
Hey John,
Good Job! Do you load yours with water? Down here I never heard of using cacl till I read about it on this forum. The older I get the more I hate messing with tires. We rarely take them off the tractor and use an excavator to break the beads and usually to jack them up. I realize yours was a different situation but our old 755 flb had the lug nuts welded on for the last 10 years we had it. That's another story and I sure do miss that machine. How cold is it over there?
Ron
 
I have fixed several rims that way. The oldest patch is now 15 years old and still fine. If appearance is a factor, a little bondo will make it very hard to spot.
 
Nothing wrong with being cheap. I'm not a fan of ballast for the reason you just showed, sooner or later rust. I use chains instead of ballast.
 
That's weird. Wonder why it rusted out around the valve stem? What you showed is usually caused by CaCl.
 
These had nothing but air unless you count the mud and water from running threw wet ground. I do have a valve stem to water hose adapter and have run pure tap water in the past. Like you I never heard of caci2 till I started reading about it here.

Yesterday 41/37. 24 degrees below normal
Right now 9am 43 and going to 57
This will be a cool week for us with highs in the upper 50's to low 60's all week considering we were in the 80's last week.
 
We run over a lot of wet ground and 60 inches of rain beating on them every year. This allows moisture to get in around the valve stem.
This rim has been like this for years but the tire finally went flat so I repaired it while fixing the flat.
I need to break down all 4 tires and paint the inside of the rim because they all have surface rust pits from water getting in.

We get so much rain every year you can not have wooden fence post unless you cover the top with tin. They will rot out from the top down if you leave them exposed.
 
CaCl gets a bad rap because of poor flat repare. If you have a flat calcium gets in the tire and rim. Unless the rim and tire is flushed well and allowed to completely dry the calcium and water will be forever traped in when the beads are seated.
 
(quoted from post at 16:42:20 12/08/13) CaCl gets a bad rap because of poor flat repare. If you have a flat calcium gets in the tire and rim. Unless the rim and tire is flushed well and allowed to completely dry the calcium and water will be forever traped in when the beads are seated.

sunbeam, I have been saying for years that it is not the calcium chloride it is procrastination in fixing flats, that causes the deterioration. Rusting is oxidation, without the periodic replenishing of oxygen when airing up the soft tire, the rusting would stop in awhile. Of course it is going to be delayed much longer in the case of an older tractor that has been relegated to just occasional use.
 

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