Wiring for Ford 850 help not sure if pushbutton is bad.

Shealray

Member
Issue: Tractor would not start.
Found Battery had bad cell and purchased a new battery.
Old relay is 3 poll thought this was the issue and purchased a new 4 pole relay.
Coil post broke on old coil so we purchased a new coil.
Alternator is 1 year old and has one wire.
I do not really know how to wire for a 4 pole relay picture shows how Ford 850 tractor is wired now.
Turn Key switch to on position and push button down nothing. No click No sound.
Key in on position has power to coil. Key in off position no power to coil.
Is the pushbutton bad? I put in new a year ago.
How to I test a pushbutton and is the wiring correct?
Thank you for assisting me in understanding my tractor
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Well the 1 wire alternator while not your problem as such is a problem down the road plus needs high RPM to charge.
As for the solenoid you need a TRUE tractor one not a car.truck one since the 2 are different.
One way to sort of narrow down you problem is use a heavy jumper across the 2 big terminals on the solenoid and see it the engine spins over. Be sure it is OUT of GEAR. If it spins over then wrong solenoid or hooked up back wards. If it does not spin over bad connection or bad starter
 
Your wiring diagram is wrong!!!! starter push button takes the Ford tractor starting motor relay to ground!!!

Like Old said ya can't use a automotive relay,, Has to be one for a Ford tractor

I'll scan my wiring diagram and try to post later.

Keith
 
(quoted from post at 19:35:42 11/05/13) Issue: Tractor would not start.
Found Battery had bad cell and purchased a new battery.
Old relay is 3 poll thought this was the issue and purchased a new 4 pole relay.
Coil post broke on old coil so we purchased a new coil.
Alternator is 1 year old and has one wire.
I do not really know how to wire for a 4 pole relay picture shows how Ford 850 tractor is wired now.
Turn Key switch to on position and push button down nothing. No click No sound.
Key in on position has power to coil. Key in off position no power to coil.
Is the pushbutton bad? I put in new a year ago.
How to I test a pushbutton and is the wiring correct?
Thank you for assisting me in understanding my tractor
756.jpg
757.jpg
Here is the wiring diagram for your Ford tracctot

mvphoto763.jpg


Keith-OR
 
(quoted from post at 19:45:34 11/05/13) Well the 1 wire alternator while not your problem as such is a problem down the road plus needs high RPM to charge.
As for the solenoid you need a TRUE tractor one not a car.truck one since the 2 are different.
One way to sort of narrow down you problem is use a heavy jumper across the 2 big terminals on the solenoid and see it the engine spins over. Be sure it is OUT of GEAR. If it spins over then wrong solenoid or hooked up back wards. If it does not spin over bad connection or bad starter

I purchased the solenoid from Orchelins and the package says it is a tractor solenoid for 1965 and up. I switched wires on front post of solenoid. Key switch on tractor tried to start no pushbutton engaged.

I used this tractor all summer with an old 3 post solenoid. I could not start it and we found the battery had a bad cell.
I purchased a new one it still would not start. Tractor had an 3 post old solenoid so we went to tractor supply place Orchelins
and purchased a new 4 post solenoid.
It says on the package this is for 1965 ford tractor could this solenoid even though it is for a tractor not be the correct on?
 

Thanks
I ran this tractor all summer long. Tractor would not start found it was a bad battery cell purchased a new battery. Still would not start. I replaced the Old 3 pole solenoid still would not start.
It was converted over to 12 volt system when I brought it and it ran well for a year. Did not have a
terminal block, relay, or ammeter this was the way I ran it.
It has only a NEW key switch, Package says this is a tractor solenoid 4 post tractor solenoid , NEW battery, NEW coil, old starter and alternator one year old is one wire.
The wiring diagram shows how it is wired now. Can a new solenoid even though package says it is for a ford 1965 and up tractor be wrong?
Your kind to send the wiring diagram.
 
"1965 and up" would exclude your 850. They were built 54-57.
The later models were wired differently and were activated by applying power.
Yours should have a three terminal which is activated by applying ground via the thumb switch.
Not all three terminal solenoids are activated that way, but yours should be.
 
Well since an 850 is a 1955 to 1957 tractor yes that solenoid could be part of the problem. While the 3 wire solenoid may not be correct it will work just fine. So now why did you replace the solenoid you had on it in the first place sound like you just wanted to
 

A old 3 post solenoid was on the tractor when I brought it. I used it this summer for cutting hay. Last month the tractor would not start. Found the battery had a bad cell so replaced the battery. Still would not start. Thought the old 3 post solenoid was bad so purchased this 4 post solenoid tractor place said this would work. Since I have learned I do not have a resistor on 12 volt coil could mess with points is this correct. If the 4 post solenoid will work what is the wiring look like?
thanks for you help this means alot to me.
 
If you have a true 12 volt coil that say no external resister needed you do not need a ballast resister. If it say resister needed then you need say an O'Reilly's VR-1 ballast resister. As for the solenoid if you have the battery and the starter hooked up to the wrong post they will not work as they should. One is for the battery only and the other the starter only and if back wars they do not work. Plus the old solenoid my not be bad you may have a bad starter button and to test that put the old solenoid back in then take a wire from the small post and ground it to the frame or battery ground. BE sure it is out of gear. If it spins over your starter button is bad
 
(quoted from post at 10:03:09 11/06/13) If you have a true 12 volt coil that say no external resister needed you do not need a ballast resister. If it say resister needed then you need say an O'Reilly's VR-1 ballast resister. As for the solenoid if you have the battery and the starter hooked up to the wrong post they will not work as they should. One is for the battery only and the other the starter only and if back wars they do not work. Plus the old solenoid my not be bad you may have a bad starter button and to test that put the old solenoid back in then take a wire from the small post and ground it to the frame or battery ground. BE sure it is out of gear. If it spins over your starter button is bad

The coil is: c63112 calco ignition coil 12-volt for ford 2000,3000,4000,5000 1965 & up.
This was on the package will this work?
 
Can not say yes or no since if it has nothing on it that says resister need or no resister needed. Sounds like part of your problem is your trying to use parts made for a 10 year newer tractor in a 1956 tractor
 
(reply to post at 12:10:06 11/06/13)

I talked to the manufacture and they said we should use a resister block.
Tractor runs now. I made a new topic with wiring diagram telling what I did.
Thank you for your assistance and timely reply. What you do matters thank you.
 

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