Assembly grease

Use the white grease. It melts and combines with the oil upon startup. Gun grease may or maybe not? To many formulations.
 
I agree on the lubriplate. In Vo-tech we used that or a mixture of stp and oil. As stated I dont think gun grease would dissolve and mix with engine oil. Its bound to gum something up somewhere.
 
Over the years I"ve built many engines from small gasoline engines to large diesels. On all of them I have used a mix of engine oil and something like STP. I"ve even had to pull the oil pan and go back into one several days after finishing the build to install a plug in an oil port that had inadvertently left out of the block by the engine machine shop, and me both. There was a very little bit of the mix that had dripped into the pan, but you could tell the majority of it had stayed put right on the bearings where I had put it. As many as I have built I have never had one have any problems with lack of pre-lubrication.
 
If your replacing the cam and/or lifters with new use the cam lube as just regular oil or white grease doesn't hold up for break-in (don't ask how I know). If your using the old parts make sure the lifters go on same lobes they came off of. STP/oil mix works well for bearings however we just used 30 wt. dealing with everything from stock to 15 to 1 compressions. Oil coat the cylinders and and pistons and rings. Oil the wrist pins well. Grease gun grease is great for ball joints tie rods and such but wont work inside the engine unless you want to plug up the oil filter and do it all again.
 
worked on many high bspeed turbines in the chemical plant always used straight STP never lost a bearing on start up also always used on my own engines got looking around shop the other day found a squeeze tube of STP probably 25 or 30 years old.
 
Years ago when I could rebuild engines, I would use STP to coat everything. Never had an engine problem.
 

I have used heavy motor oil ever since the performance motor shop where I had motor built once told me that it was what they used because of the possibility of assembly lube getting into and blocking an oil passage.
 
I use the regular Lucas oil treatment on bearing,pins,lobes,etc
since there is usually some laying around here.
Dipped in a bucket of engine oil for the pistons and rings.
on commonly removed stuff gaskets, stick-em on the side I want the gasket to stay, grease on the other side.

I'm not a pro, and hate to go to town, so they get what I gots
 
Justice Brother sells a very good engine lube for assembly use and first time start up.
STP is like using glue in the engine. You will more likly turn a bearing using STP.
You do not need to put oil on the rings. I would use a product like WD40 on them.
Brian
 
Are you willing to risk plugging an oil passage and ruining something? Just stay with Lubriplate, or use Lucas oil treatment for the bearings and oil for cylinder walls. You can buy special cam and lifter lube.
 
Stay with it. Wash out is what you want and a lot of other greases resist water and washout. I know my red hi temp does, as does the blue marine greases. Course the thicker Lubriplate like you buy in a can sports those tendencies also.

Will have to post some time the engine in the '49 Mercury of my neighbor when I was a teen. WE PUT IT TOGETHER DRY!!! Obviously it didn't turn over. Where we got that idea I don't know. He ultimately had somebody else take it back apart, fix what we tore up trying to get it to roll over and assembled it properly.

Mark
 
40 years of building engines all I use is the same oil that the engine calls for. Don't be cheap use a lot rubbed in with your hand it won't hurt you. Using your hand to apply the oil gets it into every nook an cranny. It doesn't hurt to crank the engine over a bit to bring up the oil pressure before starting it.
Walt
 
The store bought "assembly" lubes are just synthetic oil which is not good to get on the cylinder walls. To keep it out I just use normal oil that goes in the motor. Cams get coated in a moly paste only which should not affect ring seating. Crane ,Isky all make the cam coating lube.
 
No to grease - it won't dissolve quickly.

I like redline assembly lube - for the same reason I dislike other methods.

lubriplate can dry into chewing gum if the engine rebuild gets delayed - and regular oils drain/dry too quickly if you have to wait at all.

If you hit a snag in your project, you'll appreciate having redline in it. Never say never.

Unless you're SURE you're going to quickly re-assemble and start it right up - I'd go with redline.

But either way - why not? - as a percentage of total rebuild cost - a little assembly lube is just a drop in the bucket - not the time to start skimping.
 
I use a homemade air over oil tank with regular engine oil in it. Hook it to the gage port in the block and force the oil backward thru all the oil passages, pump, & filter at about 10 psi. When you start the engine you will have oil to every bearing within seconds. No problems with this method which I have used for years.
 
I do the same thing my dad did for years. Mix up a tub /can of 105 and STP half and half, and stir the he** out of it. it's kind of like whipped honey when you put it on, but it will have a good oil film until the pressure comes up.
 
A slightly modified $12.00 garden sprayer works well.

<img src = "http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u125/27Grainfield/N%20Ford/OilPrimer_zpsfbafcab4.jpg">
 

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