Allis Chalmers 175 hydraulic shaft repair.

This is on an Allis Chalmers 175 diesel,
Does anyone have a fix for this hydraulic driveshaft from the engine crank to the hydraulic pump. I was concerned it was going to be expensive BUT it turns out the flange with isolation dampeners and the shaft, pto splined on one end, are no longer available at my local AGCO dealer
I am looking for ideas. I thought about having it bored out and new shaft made and welded to the hub, but I don't know how true it would run after welding.
Looking for ideas from any body that has done this repair or any machinist with ideas about retro fitting this hub and shaft.
I am going to post on AC board also.

I've run into things like this on customers machines over the years and there are several ways to do things differently that would work. Thing is, all would require having the pieces specially machined to work in that application.

That said, any way you go is going to require having a machine shop make you the pieces so why not take it to one locally and have them give you an estimate on repearing the existing pieces along with simply making some new ones. It would probably be cheaper and eaier for them to make new because, in the case of the shaft, it shouldn't be hard for them to find a shaft that will work that already has the splines cut on it. With the hard part done, all they would have to do is machine the opposite end to make it work. As far as the drive hub, it would be the most difficult as finding a suitible 'blank' to start with probably isn't going to happen. Regardless, the basic shape is easily machined out, and the splines in it could be hobbed with a shaper, or cut with an EDM. As far as the bushings I know quite a few other mfgs use them on their machines also so they should still be available either through AGCO, or someone else with a bit of looking.

Actually Wayne the female part is really easy. You just buy a reap pto adapter. Machine the hole out and place the adapter in and weld it up. I would say machine shop we us would do the complete job for less than $ 300.00 or so.

Guess I'm just used to seeing the holes around the bushings being worn out too, that's why I said what I did. Looking at the pics again the holes in his look just fine, in fact the bushings don't really look that bad either....that's a first for me seeing them in that good of shape. That being the case, your right, I should have thought about simply turning the center out and replacing it..Guess I'm slipping in my middle age...LOL.

Or as my mom used to say, "Just when I was getting it all together, I forgot where I put it."

Just keep in mind that you need to have the spline connection
so that the crankshaft can find its own running location without
any influence from the pump or shaft.

Thanks for all the replies. I have been able to locate a new shaft with a different AGCO dealer. I like the idea of getting an adapter and boring out the flange, that might work.
I know I can get the chain coupling at Graingers or McMaster-Carr.
I thought the splined end may need to float a little in the flange. I think it is a bad design, i think the looseness of shaft in flange is what caused the wear.
If the parts were available, they were going to cost over $800
Thanks again guys, I will be looking for parts tomorrow to try to make it work.

I think I'd use a regular round shaft with the chain
coupler on one end and fix the other to use an
industrial coupling like a Lovejoy Jaw or Woods
insert or maybe even a dodge Paraflex. Or take it to
a machine sop and have them do that magic stuff they
do.

We are ALL getting older but you will never catch me. 70 years experience and most of these couplers were on the old td6/9 ih dozers. I saw folks try to ***** rig them ever way. His really should be an easy fix.

Got that right. Here latly, thankfully, I've had so much going on I'd have forgotten my head several times if it wasn't attached, Funny thing there are times I wish I could just forget everything and relax for a change....but the bills keep coming so I know that's not going to happen anytime soon....LOL

Your hub can be bored out..a female splined insert can be pressed in, and then welded, to
secure it. Various machine shop supply sources
should be able to supply splined male shafts,
in different lengths.
Any GOOD local machine shop can fix this.