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03 Durango brakes

M

MSD

Well-known Member
Got to get my daughter's Durango brakes working before I can
mess with tractors again so I need some help. I put in new pads
and had the rotors turned. It would feel ok stopping at lower
speeds but above 50 and it took to long to stop. Pedal would go
to the floor if you held it down while trying to stop. I bleed the
old fluid out and that didn't help any. Tonight I put a new master
cylinder in it and now they will pump up with the engine off but
as soon as you start it they go to the floor again. I've bled them
in the correct order several times and have used 2 qt's. of brake
fluid trying to bleed them down. I am about out of ideas if
anyone has a solution it would greatly be appreciated.
 
Check the pedal with the engine off and vacuum destroyed at the booster. How's the pedal then? Can you rapidly pump the pedal and get it to come up? How were the rear brakes?
 
Engine off . pump pedal 3-4 times and hold , where is pedal at ? Does is sink to floor as holding it ? If it sinks we are bypassing fluid or leaking it ? How are rear brakes , adjusted up ok? disc or drum ? Wheel cylinders not leaking ? I have some cases where I had to unhook line at master and screw in plug on each port to isolate front /rear to find problem and get hard pedal . brakes lines rusted ? leaking along frame ? For hard to bleed car I take a piece of rubber hose or tubing that fits snug on bleeder screw ,other end in pop bottle with couple inches of brake fluid in it. End of hose submerged , keep pumping till bubbles stop . Also ,,,binding or frozen caliper mounting pins, weak brake hoses , or rust jacking on hose mounting clamps will restrict and even block off fluid flow to caliper .
 
With the engine cold, place your foot lightly on the brake, start the engine, you should feel the brake pedal fall away under your foot, if the booster is working. Still, though, it could be slightly leaking, so listen for air/vacuum sounds. Have you checked the rear brakes and adjusted them?
 
Just had this problem with a 92 Dodge. Caliper stuck, so put new calipers and pads on. Couldn't get it to hold. New master, same thing, pedal would slowly go down. No leaks showed up anywhere. Two days later a rear brake cylinder was leaking. Have to replace them now.
 
With engine off, I can pump them up somewhat. Not real great. As soon as I start the engine they go to the floor and do not pump up. I put new pads all the way around and had all the rotors turned. I'm thinking there is a problem in the new master cylinder I put on. Before they would hold but just not have the stopping power needed over 50 mph. Now they go to the floor. Instructions mention the plunger rod length but the test for that shows ok. I might tweak it to see if it does anything. There are no leaks and maybe I still have air in the lines after changing the master cylinder. I've bled them at least a dozen times each. One way by having my helper push them down with the bleeder open and then closing before they release the pedal. The other way was to pump them up 5 times real quick and then open the bleeder while holding the pedal down. Thanks for the help so far guys.
 
To verify air in the system, pump the pedal rapidly, have someone remove the cap on the master cyl. resivoir, then side step the brake pedal and have someone see if you have fluid movement in the fluid. If you do have air you may need to bleed the ABS HCU. Dodge has a bleed brakes sequence in their scan tool that actuates the valves to push the air to the bleeder.
 
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