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O/T Tomato Blight

F

Fergienewbee

Well-known Member
For the last few years I have grown my tomatoes in the same location. Never had any trouble. This year I moved them and got blight in them. I'll move them back to the previous location, but what can I do next year to eliminate/cure blight?

Larry
 
Plenty of moving air, air space between them, burn off all remnants of the old plant, use blight resistant species if you can. There is a chemical you can get that knocks the snot out of the blight. It's expensive, relatively, and I don't recall the name.
 
Blight is caused by moisture on the leaves. When it rains, which it it has here a lot this year, the leaves mat together, trapping moisture between them, and dirt splashes up and clings to them also. We plant in raised beds, and have a trellis system that supports the plants. Once the plants are at the first stage of the trellis, (8"), we nip off all the suckers, allowing air to circulate through the plants. Newspaper spread on the ground around the plants stops the dirt spatter.
Google "growing tomatoes", lots of info there.
Loren, the Acg.
a127960.jpg
 
I grow mine in cages and mulch with newspaper too, but I'll try nipping the lower branches off and maybe planting them farther apart. Definitely burn all the residue.
Thanks.

Larry
 
I have been told that the blight is caused by fungus spores that are carried by air. The belief is that they do not over winter well in cold climates but to be on the safe side it is best to get rid of all old plants at the end of the season.

Air around the plants may help but if the fungus spores are in the air there is not much hope. Dusting or spraying plants with fungicide containing copper may help but as Bret says it may not be cost effective for the home gardener.

It it unlikely that your new garden spot caused the blight.
 
I have serious blight on tomatoes that were planted on land that I cleared and has never had tomatoes on before.
 
I grow my tomatoes in cages made from heavy reinforcement wire. I made them back in the 1970's they're about 24" in diameter. To keep the ground hogs from eating any of the vines or tomatoes I wrapped the bottom of the cages with vinyl covered wire. That wire is about 2 feet tall. I don't keep any tomato vines to compost. I set them out for pickup and they will compost them at the landfill. I do mow off the bean vines and I will plow them under this Fall.
I had the tomato plants mulched with grass clippings and shredded newspaper. Hal
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There are several chemical sprays used for controlling blight.Most are metal compounds.Not expensive just that most people are unaware of them.
 
I paid 1.99 for 6oz of a chemical called Mancozeb.Its got zinc in it.I look for garden chemicals in the off season.Blight caused the Irish potato famine in the mid 1800s.An Irish farmer said the blight is still in the soil now but we have the chemicals to control it.
 
like John said, got to know what disease you are dealing with. if it is late blight, it has nothing to do with where you grew them (assuming you are somewhere that gets a real winter) cause the pathogen requires living host tissue to survive. the spores are wind-dispersed and require humid, warm weather to infect. mancozeb and chlorothalonil, applied preventatively on a 7-day schedule, provide excellent control.

early blight is a completely different story, and there are lots of other tomato diseases out there that are not generally known as blight.
 
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