Ford Tractor Identification

Hey Folks,
I desperately need some help identifying an old Ford tractor I recently purchased. The person I bought the tractor from thought it was a Ford 3000. It was only after locating a Ford 730 Loader and driving the 500 miles round trip to Tn that I realized, I'm most certain that I don't have a 3000. The Loader was removed from a 3000 and that tractor was much smaller than mine. When I arrived home and started pulling some measurements, the loader will need some serious modifications. The frame appears to be too short to reach my rear axles by at least a foot or so, I will have to weld on some hefty extensions. I noticed that about 6" was because of the heavy chunk of steel my tractor has located over my front axles (below the radiator shroud)that doesn't have a hole for my splined shaft to even go thru. I will have to take the cutting torch to make an access point. Someone else mentioned they thought I had a 4000 Row Crop given the tall height of the tractor. The Row crop would explain why there isn't a hole for the splined shaft up front, given it should be a field tractor. It is an 8 speed, 3 Cyl Diesel.
The stamped numbers from the right side block (behind the starter) read:
5D 30 B
3 and 4 stamped on top of each other,then 1012C
10823551 16
Any help with identifacation of this tractor would be greatly appreciated!

sometimes on Fords the info was on the underside of the hood. Raise the hood part & look up.

A picture of your tractor would help.
Sam

I would advise against cutting on that bolster. Maybe taking it to a machine shop and getting a hole bored. The fact that you have a bolster makes it highly likely that it is a 4200, I would love to have one of those. Besides where 2x4, said you could also find the numbers stamped on the right side of the transmission or on the horizontal flat surface at the back of the rear axle cover.

Sounds like a Ford 4000 (4100) is the tall utility with the 38" wheels. THe row crop does not have that piece you are describing and as it also has 38" wheels some would confuse it with the utility, the row crop has a flat deck for your feet. And the 4000 series you will not need your front pump, forget you have it.

Given that it has 38" wheels, and the bolster does not have a hole for a front pump drive shaft, you almost certainly have a 4000 row crop (4200). DO NOT cut or machine a hole in the bolster - you'll only ruin it. With the steering setup used, there is no place to run a shaft through there.

I'm beginning to wonder if you have a mutt.
4 (or 3) 1012C is the model number. A 4 would indicate a '65 to early '68 4000. Mid '68 on, the model number would start with a letter - D for a 4000. 1012C would be ag all-purpose diesel with transmission PTO and 8-speed. The unit code of 5D30B would then mean 1965, April 30, 2nd shift. BUT 4000 row crop production didn't start until 1967. So... if 5D30B was 1975, April 30, 2nd shift, the model number should start with a D. And a 4000 should have independent PTO, not transmission PTO. Does it have a double reduction rear end with inboard, wet disk brakes? A 3000 would have outboard drum brakes.

I assume you are joking about putting a hole in the bolster to fit the wrong loader on your tractor, that would just be - well, it just would.

A pic of the tractor would sure help.

Paul

(quoted from post at 06:00:44 09/08/13) Sounds like a Ford 4000 (4100) is the tall utility with the 38" wheels. THe row crop does not have that piece you are describing and as it also has 38" wheels some would confuse it with the utility, the row crop has a flat deck for your feet. And the 4000 series you will not need your front pump, forget you have it.

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Leroy, Ford calls the 4200 a row crop in the parts book and the part number for the piece described is C5NN3A213E support

Thought I had included that the row crop was the 4200, guess not.

Ok guys thanks so much for the input. This is what I planned on doing once I discovered I was stuck with this 1500 dollar loader. I had just gotten rid of a 44 2n with a baker loader that ran off a spline shaft from the front hub assembly
the ford 730 loader came with a appr. 12 inch 7/8 inch diameter 13 spline shaft and hub. The front was covered with a trailer hitch mount plate, I was assuming under the plate would be an access hole. No such luck. I cut a 21 inch 7/8 inch diameter shaft and was going to have it splined on both ends at a machine shop. I have ordered coupler drive for 730 loader 291061 that will bolt directly to my front pulley which already has the four holes placed. what are your thoughts?

(quoted from post at 14:57:17 09/08/13) Ok guys thanks so much for the input. This is what I planned on doing once I discovered I was stuck with this 1500 dollar loader. I had just gotten rid of a 44 2n with a baker loader that ran off a spline shaft from the front hub assembly
the ford 730 loader came with a appr. 12 inch 7/8 inch diameter 13 spline shaft and hub. The front was covered with a trailer hitch mount plate, I was assuming under the plate would be an access hole. No such luck. I cut a 21 inch 7/8 inch diameter shaft and was going to have it splined on both ends at a machine shop. I have ordered coupler drive for 730 loader 291061 that will bolt directly to my front pulley which already has the four holes placed. what are your thoughts?

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It is hard to say how it will line up. I have five ford row crop tractors and the pulley center is very close to the top of the bolster on them all. my thought is that you will need to go through either the radiator or the bolster. If it means going through the bolster I would think that if it were milled at a machine shop so that the hole is no bigger than necessary that there would be no problem. The bolsters are built massive just as much for weight as strength.

I'd really think long and hard before I tried
machining a hole in that bolster. I'd switch it over
to run off the tractor's remotes before I did any
machining. Wouldn't be as fast, but it would work. Or
you could set it up with a PTO run pump, if this is
going to be a dedicated loader tractor.

(quoted from post at 02:04:29 09/09/13) Leroy,
When you say I won't need the front pump if I have a 4000, I'm not sure I follow what you mean. The 730 loader has the hydr pump in front of the unit, what would drive this unit? Or, do you mean I just need to forget using the 730 loader and find something other (loader wise) to run off my wet lines or rear PTO drive. I started to buy a used Bushhog Loader... the main reason I didn't was to have a Ford loader that came off of the same tractor I thought I had. I knew the tractor was taller than the std. 3000, but I thought someone may have put larger rear tires on the unit. Should have done more homework on what I actually had.
Thanks for all of your help!

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No what you are being told is that more modern tractors have good enough internal hydraulics that you don't need to run an extra pump to run a loader. Like with the old Ford N series. They had hydraulics but if you wanted to use both the 3 point and a loader at the same time or an all hydraulic loader the loader had to have a separate pump. My Farmall 1206 can run the 3 point, power steer and brakes plus a loader all at once. My Farmall M can't.

Rick

The bolster will still be plenty strong with a
hole in the front, but getting things lined up is
an issue on the rowcrops. On the 5000 rowcrop
(5200) I had, a shaft would not have been able to
clear all the steering components. A 4200 may be
slightly different, but Ford would likely have
made the bolster with the hole if it would work.
The loader WILL be faster if run off the front
pump, compared to the tractor's remotes (wet
lines), but running off the remotes WILL work.
Personally, I'd sell the 730 and find a quick-tach
loader that fits without having to modify it...but
that would mean more $$ and time...though maybe
not a lot more of either, considering the time and
cost to modify the 730.

I'm still not 100% sure what model you have... The
link is to an ebay auction for a 4000 ag utility
model (4100) with what appears to be a 730 loader.
How does yours compare to this one?
4000/loader on ebay

For goodness sakes. Once and for all forget about the aux
front pump. They were a bandaide fix for old tractors with no or
lousy hydraulics.
Just because the old tractor had a front aux pump and it is
what you are familiar with means it"s the best solution. Do you
have OCD ?
The 4000"s may have a respectable factory designed pump
with 5+ gpm and 2500psi. Just tap out and back into the high
pressure hydraulic line .
Is the 4000"s hydraulic pump engine driven or transmission
driven?

The four-cylinder (1962-1965) Ford 4000 series tractors were nearly identical to the 801 and 901 series tractors.
Hydraulics: Type: open
Pump flow: 5.4 gpm [20.4 lpm]

The three-cylinder Ford 4000 series tractors, which debuted in 1965, were entirely different from the old 801/901-based 4000 tractor.
Hydraulics: Type: open
Capacity: 8.4 gal [31.8 L] (transmission PTO)
8.1 gal [30.7 L] (independent PTO)
Pressure: 2500 psi [172.4 bar]
Pump flow: 5 gpm [18.9 lpm]
5.5 gpm [20.8 lpm]
Steering flow: 4.5 gpm [17.0 lpm]
Steering press.: 800 psi [55.2 bar]

Old N series design decendents
1962: 1001
1963: 11949
1964: 38931

"All New"

1965: C100000
1966: C124200
1967: C161300
1968: C190200
1969: C226000
1970: C257600
1971: C292100
1972: C327200
1973: C367300
1974: C405200
1975: C450700