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LAWN MOWER GUYS----QUESTION

L

lenray

Well-known Member
I have a zero turn called the TANK--HEAVY duty made by CUB CADET--Industrial model. It has the 23 HP Honda.
To start the brake has to be set--it pushes in on a plunger--switch. The switch went bad and I am 68 and don't like to have to set the brake to start. Anyway the switch has 4 wires. I jumped across two of them and it will start right up---the BAD PART is that the starter won't disengage until I pull the jumper wire.

Any ideas that don't require a new switch?????????
 
The two you connected might be one from the starter relay, and one from the ignition used for mower deck relay safety, or?. if a starter wire for one interlock is crossed with a hot wire it will provide starting (cranking) voltage. untill disconnected. A wiring diagram is kind of important in this case. (or buy a new switch and put the wires where they belong, and tape the switch closed) Jim
 
Well my man here is the deal. Cub Cadet subscribes to a national safety group of mower builders. To keep that little sticker on their products they have to build to certain safety standards. Part of those safety standards mandate that the unit will not run without operator presence (some one in the seat) as well as will not start with out the brake on. That is why the 4 wire switch is use to keep (or at least make it hard) folks like you from bypassing those safety devices. Get the switch.. or burn up your starter.
 
I would just put in a new switch. Some kid might jump on it if bypassed and you will have big trouble.. It can be bypassed but it may use one normally open contact and one normally closed or one is triggering another relay so you have to be able to decipher how to wire and unwire it properly to work. They are making them a little more taper proof as they progress.
 
Cant tape it closed. You have to release the brake, thus opening the switch, before the handles will come together and the engine stay running.
 
You need the switch, it would be so much more simpler to replace it than rewire both that switch and the switched for the control levers. If yours is like mine, the brake lever has to be down before you can bring the levers in.
 
Run those two wires through a normally open momentary push switch. You hold the switch button down to start and when it starts you let go and it opens the circuit.

HTH

Areo
 
Don't you have a momentary action n/o switch on the ignition switch to run the starter? Just spitballing here! I'm not a big fan of the nanny state but feel you should probably fix the interlock, no telling who might get on it in the future or what shape they may be in. If it's you that gets hurt you'll feel really stupid, if it's someone you love you'll be really mad at yourself. I get enough opportunities to feel stupid or mad at myself without going and looking for more.
 
i really doubt it that switch,fix it right before you get hurt it will be cheaper by time yo try short out the system,work on them daily in shop,quick test lets you know
 
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