How much to ask for 8N parts?

I'm new around here, so I apologize for any transgressions...

I stumbled on a Ford 8N for cheap and brought it home thinking I could get it running, and now I can't . I've done all the necessary checks to start a "ran when parked" machine and in the end it has pretty low compression.

I can get the engine to jump enough to disengage the starter, but it just won't take off. And because I don't have the time, resources, and proper facilities to do a rebuild, I'm going to send it down the road.

It has a Sherman Combo trans, with high-direct-low positions, an Everett Trencher trans, and a front blade kit from HydroBlade, which includes all the necessary lines from the hyd. pump in the transmission/rear end housing and proper lift valve w/remote ports.

I have a couple more little things I can try before I call the engine DEAD, but either way this project is going to be sold. I can part it out or sell as is.

Anybody want to take a stab at how much I should try to get out of this machine? Any help would be appreciated!

Rob

Where are you located?

Run of the mill N parts aren't worth a lot, but that specialty equipment probably is. There's a lot more expertise on that stuff over on the Ford N board, on this site- Look up at the top gray bar on this page, and click on Ford 9N, 2N, 8N. I think you'll generate some interest over there- they LOVE Sherman transmissions and other esoteric stuff.

Keep in mind that parting it out will take time,dealing with people will take even more time and the "goodies" will sell off quick and then you are still left with a hulk to get rid of,trip over,or move around.
In the end if you can get what you paid or a little more? in one complete piece and move it down the road to a different home you will be farther ahead.

Rob........dead engine, eh? Rebuilt 8N engine $1500 ...or... parts $450. Not good enuff fer you? Me neither. Me? I'd try the ATF soak. Yer description has all the characteristic effects of "stuck rings". Just squirt some ATF (1-oz) down each sparkie hole and wait. It will naturally drain past yer stuck rings into the crankcase where it does no harm. After 4-days, BEFORE you install yer NEW CLEAN DRY sparkies, turn yer engine over several rumpas. Recommend AutoLite 437's gapped 0.025". Whatever you do, DON'T part it out, sell it as a project. Its gotta alotta desirable "goodies" but you'll end up with a pile of junk. Most shadetree mechanics wannabees can do an engine rebuild or engine swap. BTW, didja know good ag-bar rear tires are worth $250? ........shadetree Dell

Lets use a for instance to prove a point.

OK so you have never had the motor running and want to part it out.

So how do you sell the Everett Trencher trans.
As could work; I do not know if it does. That might bring you a little better than scrap price.
In that instance is it really worth parting it out and having to deal with window shoppers and shipping each part.

Or do you sell it as good and get top dollar to make it worth your time and effort. Then when I install it and find a bad bearing or a chipped gear tooth I am right back on the phone complaining to you. Now we got to ship it back to you and refund my entire purchase price including shipping cause you miss-represented the product in the first place. Now you are out shipping both ways and still have a broken tractor.

Sat for years so what did you do to maybe help bring up the compression from sticking rings and maybe a valve or 2 that does not close like it should. Have you filled the cylinders with ATF and left it sit that way for say a week??
One in that condition at best is around $500 give or take a tad bit

Running or not you might make more parting it out.
As Mike said below the aux trannies would sell well and quickly.
Off the top of my head here, an Everett would likely bring $600-$900 and a 3 speed Sherman probably $500-$800.
I'd have to see the blade and controls to estimate it's value but maybe $300-$500 if in good condition.
If you didn't want to mess with it you could likely get $2000 for it as is depending on how it looked generally and condition of the tires, tin, etc.

I had one given to me several years ago by a cousin. He said it had been rebuilt, but they could never get it started. The valves had never been adjusted. There is a special tool to use to adjust the valves. There was one on ebay a while back. You CAN do it without it, but I"d try and find the tool first.

Ok folks, so I have some things to think about. First, my location is W. Washington state, a little south of Tacoma. Second, I'll be sure to post over in the other forum like was said above to draw a little more interest.

One correction, my front blade is a HydroDozer, not a HydroBlade if such a thing exists. Even has a brass tag right on the top of the blade.

Stuck rings-that makes sense, and just by chance I did use ATF when running the WET compression test. But before reading anything here today I put those new plugs in and tried to get it to fire. Same thing, just kicks a bunch and won't fully start up. I'll wait a day or two more and see what happens, maybe it'll start after loosening up.

As far as parting it out goes, sure I'll have to deal with the tire kickers and looky-loos, but I'm used to that. My wife and I are continuously buying and selling things to make ends meet, so no biggie there.

And now the money issue. For those who like to drool, I'll say that SCRAP price would bring me MORE than I paid for the entire machine. Including fuel in my truck. So getting my money out of it is not going to be an issue. However I will admit that a "running" engine will be worth much more to someone, and if the engine runs long enough for me to test all the components of the tractor I'll get even more. For that matter, I might even be able to sell it off as a complete tractor.

You all make valid points, but I must say that nobody around here would buy a tractor this UGLY for what I can get as a parted out machine. The hood is smashed in from the previous owner tipping his Kubota over on it while lifting the 8N out of the mud, the shades of grey and red are 90% GONE and mostly rust shows.

And Dell, I've done engine work before so I know what you mean. I'm sure I would be capable of handling this, but I'm dealing with limited time and resources (money is a Big one) and just have to get what I can out of this. If an old 8N were appropriate for my long term uses I'd be all over doing a quickie rebuild or engine swap, but my needs are much bigger than 25hp or so can supply I need something that can handle a loader that lifts 2000# or so, plus a pretty good PTO.

I'll repost in the Ford 8N section.

Thanks guys, you've given me some things to think about.

Rob

Where are you located. I am interested in buying the entire unit

(quoted from post at 17:40:14 09/04/13) Where are you located. I am interested in buying the entire unit

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zip 98328

If you part it out the good stuff will sell and your stuck with stuff you"ll trip over for the next decade.You have a real nice outfit with the Sherman H/L. If a engine rolls over 95% of the time it will run. To get what the H/L is worth you have to say it works and is not just a casing full of metal shavings. You have to get the motor running, I bet we can get it running.When we get the motor running test H/L? It works now you have just made $1000 over what ya paid and no more time then it would have been to start a parting out party. Use the tranny fluid soak. I did it as old told me to and my 30 to 40 lb N now after 3 soaks is all above 90 and NO smoke. There is nobody I know on this forum that wish they had your problem with this outfit, so make it run it will be the fastest 1K you will make not to mention that pants wetting feeling you will get when she starts,LOL L B Master of The Obvious.