Moldboard plow question

Bkpigs

Member
I haven't moldboard plowed a big enough patch to plow in both directions, generally with a mp I would just do gardens and leave one furrow on one side of the garden. When someone would plow a larger patch and would want a furrow on each of the outsides of the field what would you do in the center? Leave a strip of unplowed but covered dirt in the middle? So if you were using a 14" bottom plow you would have 28" of covered dirt unplowed, 14" of turned dirt from the first pass in each direction. Or would you try to plow the dirt the was turned over from the first pass and the virgin dirt underneath?
 
Well I guess you are on the right track. There would be some dirt in the center "unturned" , but it would not be very noticable in a 10 acre plot. On year 2 of ploughing the same field, I would put my strike out in last years dead furrow and this will fill it in. The more you plough , the more you will understand. My dad always told me " the better the job you do with the plough, the less work you will have with the cultivator". Bruce
 
It is called a back furrow and is done to turn as much as possible without leaving a big ridge. Then that is disced or dragged to near flat. See plowing in the archives and sort through some comments and find descriptions as needed. Jim
 
Bruce has it right. If I understand it right you'll have a ridge down the middle of the field. Next year you will start on the outside and plow in till there's a dead furrow in the middle where the ridge is now. It's not going to be perfect. The more you try to level it off the more you'll pack the ground.

I haven't plowed for years, but when I changed row directions from east-west to north-south in a couple of fields I was surprise at how many old east-west ridges and dead furrows from years ago were visible in the fall when the sun was low after the bean head had shaved the field clean. I could also see them slightly after a light skiff of snow blew over. Jim
 
Is it true that if you plow to work up the ground that you will have less weeds. I was told this a long time ago and have always wondered about it
 
This spring my neighbor no-tilled soybeans into cornstalks with no pre-plant herbicide. Then we had rain upon rain and he couldn't get it sprayed. The field as a whole stayed pretty darned clean except for where he V ripped the end rows to take out the wagon tracks last fall, in the process bringing up a fresh batch of dormant weed seeds. The resulting weeds in the ripping were so thick they stunted the beans for the rest of the summer. Jim
 
Keep the front of the plow shallow on the first time around, and there won't be much of a ridge...

I have seen videos where the driver makes the first pass, then turns around and plows the same pass back in the other direction, with the LEFT wheel in the furrow. After that he plows normally with the right wheel in the furrow.
 
Moldboard plowing will stop the weeds that have already come up right in their tracks. New ones will start to grow on the plowed ground, of course, but it is an effective way to kill the ones you already have. Neighbors went to organic farming and found that moldboard plowing was the only way to get a cornfield started off on even footing with weeds. They plow late in May after it's warm enough for corn to germinate quickly and plant as soon as possible after plowing. 30" rows canopy over pretty quick but they still do a lot of cultivating before that happens. Makes no sense at all to me but to each his own.
 

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