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Modified Wiring Ford 9N

G

Gerb6

New User
I have a '41 9N with a 6V single wire generator system having battery charging problems. I decided to rewiring the system and learned the regular start switch was by-passed and a solenoid added inside the dash along with a separate push button switch outside.
I have replaced the ammeter, generator, push button switch, cutout switch, resistor block and wiring harness.
I kept the solenoid connected to the battery and to the starter cables. The ammeter is also connected to the BAT side of the solenoid and the start SW is connected to one of the solenoid posts.
The 6 Volt GEN is connected to the cutout SW and continues up to the resistor block from the BAT side of the cutout.
I continue to have a problem with charging a one yr. old battery.

I suspect the solenoid is shorted or maybe should not be in the system to begin with. Charging has never been a strong point with this arrangement.
If this is correct I will rebuild the old starter SW to get back to pure 9N design.
Should I replace the external solenoid and start SW?
Any comment?
Thanks
Gerb
 
Solenoid has nothing to do with charging. Your arrangement does defeat the neutral safety start arrangement, however.
If wiring is correct, only generator & cut out impace battery charging. Have you adjusted the HI/LO 3rd brush screw on rear end of generator?
 
Hi JMOR,
I have not personally but I had to take the GEN to a repair shop because the 3rd brush screw was rotating freely. I did not want to open the GEN myself.
This is a "new" GEN from external_link and we have had a bit of a hassle about it.
I took it to a local, experienced shop. They fixed the 3rd brush screw and set the GEN according to them "just right...do not have to fool with it." This adjustment included the new cutout SW.
Gerb
 
I assume that your ammeter isn't showing a charge? You might try jumpering (connecting together) the two terminals on the cut out while running at speed to see if that causes the ammeter to show a charge.
 
I will jumper the cutout SW to see what that tells.
In the meantime, I checked the travel on the 3rd Brush adj. screw.
It only travels thru about 18 to 20 degrees while the total travel on my old GEN looks like it could be up to 180 degrees.
Maybe the repair to the new GEN adj. screw is a little shaky.
I can also turn the screw to the max to see if it will charge the battery.
Thanks JMOR.
Gerb
 
While waiting for battery to recharge, decided to
have repair shop take another look at the generator's 3rd brush adjusting screw which was too loose. It also had limited adjusting range. Screw would not turn beyond about 20 degrees.
We found the 3rd brush assembly could interfere with the thru bolt. In other words the brush base would contact the thru bolt and stop as the adjusting screw was turned.
Another example of poor quality with today's "shipped in" parts.
Did not do a cutout SW bypass but will if the GEN continues to not charge the battery.
Gerb
 
(quoted from post at 14:06:54 08/26/13) While waiting for battery to recharge, decided to
have repair shop take another look at the generator's 3rd brush adjusting screw which was too loose. It also had limited adjusting range. Screw would not turn beyond about 20 degrees.
We found the 3rd brush assembly could interfere with the thru bolt. In other words the brush base would contact the thru bolt and stop as the adjusting screw was turned.
Another example of poor quality with today's "shipped in" parts.
Did not do a cutout SW bypass but will if the GEN continues to not charge the battery.
Gerb
Click to expand...
hat clearance has always looked close, to my eyes. What did he/you do about it?
 
1) The electrical shop guy set the screw adjustment so the brush base was past the point of contact as he reassembled the back cover.
That may cause the GEN to put out more amps than required because I think it is moving it toward the high side to clear the bolt.
2) I believe the brush base can be filed away to the point it will slip by. The amount of interference is not much but it was enough to believe it is a "stop" when it really is not.
3) The thru bolt can be reduced in diameter enough to help if all you need is 1/32nd of an inch.
4) I loosened the thru bolt and pushed it to the far side before tightening it down. It may have recentered but it's worth a shot.
Amp meter now shows a charge, 4to 7A.
Knowing the problem is everything!!
Gerb
 
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