Issues airing up the rear tire on my WD - help!

Will Herring

Well-known Member
Both the rear tractor tires on my WD were a little low (fluid filled tires, by the way), so I went and pumped them up. Stopped the tractor with each valve stem at the top of the tire then pumped. Right rear tire, no issues to speak of...

Left rear tire... It pumped up mostly okay, but when I took the air pump off, fluid starting running out of the center of the valve stem! I think my valve stem insert is bad? Pretty easy to replace right? Do I have to jack the rear end of the tractor up to do it so it's not got all that weight behind it? Or do I have something else going on?
 
I had that problem on my H IH. I let the air out slow and then took valve stem out and installed new one. Hardly no loss of fluid from tire.
 
Well guess I will run out to the farm supply store after work tomorrow and pick me up a new valve stem to get in there ASAP. Thanks!
 
VERY common when automotive valve cores are used with CaCl filled tires.

Go to a tire store that services AG tires and buy a couple of "water" valve cores.

You can install them without loosing much fluid if you have everything needed within reach when you start.

Dean
 

In the interest of a little cushioning of bumps, tires are not usually filled above the level of the stem when it is on top.
 
Quick get a jack under it and take the weight off that tire. A good chance you will not be able to get the valve core out and will have to replace the stem.
 
Common problem.. I would suggest that you go to a tire repair shop that fixes tractor tires.

Your so called "Tractor Supply" may not carry the correct replacement valve but the tire repair store will. You may only need a good pair of pliers or vice grip wrench to remove the old core. The new valve should screw in by hand and need only a slight twist with your pliers to seat it. Look at the replacement core and you will see where to grab the old one to remove.
 
Like other post said put the stem at the top jack that tire up off the ground and remove the stem assy not just the core and take it with you so you get the correct one as there were different styles used. Go to a tire shop that services tractor tires as you mite find out yours will be hard to find.
 
I got lucky and our farm and home store had some replacement cores on hand. I was able to screw out the old one and put in the new one with only a few seconds of fluid running out of the tire.

Though if I have to monkey with it again, I will replace the entire stem assembly with something new and different. Thanks for the help; all.

I wasn't too worried about fluid running all over the rim since via the rust marks it is apparent it has been seeping out slowly through the bad core for a few weeks (or months?) now, and I was just too daft to notice it. :oops: :roll:

I did wash the rim twice when I was done though. Will go through and scrub it again this week just to make sure I got all the crap off.
 
Rural King has both styles of core stems in stock in two packs. I put a loaded tire on my one Allis C yesterday morning and when I put the weight of the tractor on the tire it started to leak. With the stem mostly up I put the new core stem in my mouth, removed the old one, dropped it on the ground and popped the new one in quick and tightened it. Hardly any fluid came out. As soon as the O ring goes down in the hole it is sealed off.
 
(quoted from post at 19:11:27 08/04/13) Rural King has both styles of core stems in stock in two packs. I put a loaded tire on my one Allis C yesterday morning and when I put the weight of the tractor on the tire it started to leak. With the stem mostly up I put the new core stem in my mouth, removed the old one, dropped it on the ground and popped the new one in quick and tightened it. Hardly any fluid came out. As soon as the O ring goes down in the hole it is sealed off.

Yep, this is how I did mine as well. The old core on mine was so bad that it was leaking even with the old core in and the cap on. So taking it out didn't even make it that much worse.
 
Yes you do need to jack up that rear wheel off the ground and put the tire valve so it is at 12 o"clock position. If you don"t do this, you will probably get a CaCl shower when you disturb the existing valve or valve core. If you have ever had CaCl on your hands, you would understand why you don"t want to get sprayed with that solution. Not pleasant!

Over the last year or so, I had noticed that one of the back tires on my Ford 641D looked like it was a bit lower on air than the other. I drove it to the garage and was going to add some air from the compressor, but when I took off the valve cap, a little bit of solution leaked out. When I tried to add air, none would go in. I thought I might need to replace the valve core, but I could not see anything for my tire valve tool to hook to and it would not remove the core.

So I went to the industrial tire store in town to see what they recommended. The clerk asked me which valve stem I had and showed me a couple of different inserts. He ended up GIVING me a brand new insert, saying he would charge me twice the next time...I WILL be doing my heavy tire business there in the future!

A couple of days later, I noticed that the problem tire looked much lower. I had purposely parked it with the valve stem at the highest point, and I did not see evidence of fluid leakage. I drove the tractor to the garage again and jacked it up, started the compressor and decided to try my luck at removing the old insert. When I first tried turning the old insert, it looked to me like the rest of the stem was turning too, so I got another pair of pliers and took hold of the stem closer to the rim. The insert finally started to unscrew, but I had to use a fair amount of force. But once broken loose, it unscrewed fairly easily, and did not break off, as I had feared it might. I noticed that the O ring that was supposed to be on the old insert was gone, maybe inside the tire or dissolved. The plunger in the old insert was stuck, which was probably why the tire would not take any air. I would have liked to have run a tap into the old threads in the stem, but I did not have one the right size. So I carefully screwed the new stem insert into the old, cruddy looking valve stem, first lubricating the O ring with saliva. The insert went in fine and I tightened it up with the pliers. Then I aired up the tire, which took quite a lot of volume, and let the jack down.

Since I was not sure if the new insert would hold air (or solution), I parked the tractor with the valve stem in the highest position. A couple of days later I checked the tire and it did not seem to have lost any air or solution. Apparently my repair was a success! The tire has stayed fully up for more than a week.

I do not think that insert had been disturbed in more than 30 to 35 years. It had been new when my Dad bought new rear tires on the 641D. I might have added air a few times over all these years, but I am pretty sure that the insert had never been removed.

I was very pleased that I could fix the tire so cheaply. I figured that if the valve stem broke while I was trying to remove the insert, I would end up having to have our local farm tire service come and replace the tube. Probably the better part of $200 before I was done. I know how to change a tire tube, but I am not as young as I once was, and they have the equipment to deal with the CaCl solution. I would have spent the money.

You might get lucky and be able to remove/replace the valve core and have that solve the problem. I was not aware that there was a difference between valve cores for air and for liquid. That is something to know and remember. Or you may find that you need to try changing the insert. I would advise being very careful and watching to see if the rest of the valve stem remains stationary when you try to turn the insert, or if the lower part of the stem moves like mine did. Even though it damages the threads on the lower part of the stem to grasp it with pliers, that is what I figured I had to do rather than tearing the stem loose from the tube. Once the insert was broken loose, it came off pretty easily.

If that is what you have to do, you might want to remove the insert before you go to the tire store, so you can show them exactly what you need.

Good luck, I hope your situation turns out as good as mine did!
 
I got my 8n a little over a year ago. After about a month I discovered it had only one tire loaded. Hmmm...Do I empty that one or load the other one? At first I decided to empty the one and call it good. This tractor will work some but the extra weight wouldn't matter in my opinion at the time. I noticed that the core was leaking just a little on the loaded tire but just enough to keep it moist. I drained it out and got it down to maybe a couple of gallons or less. The more I thought about it, I decided to load both of them. That way the little bit left in the one tire wouldn't be on my mind, and as I found out, I really needed that extra traction. By this time that core was leaking pretty good, only the valve cap was keeping it aired up. I ended up getting a metal valve cap with a rubber (?) washer inside. I couldn't get the original apart for love or money. I had some really old antifreeze that can't be used in modern vehicles and put that with a mix of water up about half full on both tires, put the metal caps on and tightened them up and so far no loss of air or fluid. Someday I'll load it on a trailer and take it to the local tire shop and get them to fix it properly. If it ever starts leaking that is.
 
Yes, jack the weight off the tire so you don't lose
calcium; valve stem on top; replace the core $4 for
two at TSC.
 
You need to replace the entire 'water
valve'/'gator',not just the inner core.As was said
there 2 styles.The older has female threads.The
newer style has male threads.Like they said,jack up
the rear wheel.
 

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