Top Link - Catagories

I am rebuilding my Dad"s old Ferguson TO35 and am starting to acquire various implements.

I need to get a top link and noticed that it comes in three catagories. I am assuming that since the CatI is much cheaper than the CatIII top link, that it is either a lighter duty bar or the ends have different sized holes for attaching implements.

The heaviest implement that I have is a 5 foot sidewinder rotary cutter.

What catagory of top link would I need to acquire to run the mower or a two bottom plow safely?

Thanks

Category one is what you need, 0 is garden tractors 2 is usually larger tractors over 50 HP and 3 is beyond that. I supposed you could use a Cat 2 and bush down, likely no reason to do that, but I have found implements with cat 1 lift pins and cat 2 top link hole, that I would have to bush down to 7/8" cat 1

Cat. 1. Its academic really because where the top link fits onto the tractor the bracket will be drilled for cat. 1 anyway on a tractor that size.

you need a cat one. Some fergesons (and other makes, too) have a toplink that is unique to the tractor. In fergeson's case, some have a longer than standard length.

may need a flexible top link if your mower has a tail wheel? I see on some of the newer mowers it has a flexible part to hook your upper link in. Your mower needs to be able to go up and down hinging on the bottom two arms on uneven grown or you will do what I did years ago and break the rear wheel off. The tail wheel was expensive at the time. enjoy your tractor.

Cat 2 will not go into the yoke on tractor to be able to bush it down.

the ferguson is a cat 1 tractor, get the top link that is adjustable for brush hogging that will allow you to set the angle of the mower for mowing in flat country, for the hills i take the top like off once i get there and ready to mow, that allows the mower to "follow" the tractor thru the valley and over the top of the hills without binding in the bottoms or lifting on the tops .reconnect the top link top lift the mower up off the ground for transport

Simply put,the category refers to the diameter of the pins. Like everybody says,the Ferguson uses the small cat 1 pins.

Kevin,look to the left,under the "Reasearch & Info" category.You will see a 3point Specs heading.It will tell you what you need to know....

eric, running without a top link is a good way to introduce the mower to the back of your head. You should always run a top link. If your mower doesn't have a flex link after the 3pt put it on or get rid of it.

Your tractor was built to use category one implements 3/4" holes on the top link and 7/8" holes on the lower lift arms. If the rotary cutter top link hole is not ridged, no problem the mower will ride on the rear wheel and lower arms if it is ridged I use a chain. but make sure it stays far away from the pto.

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I have found implements with cat 1 lift pins and cat 2 top link hole, that I would have to bush down to 7/8" cat 1
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And then there's John Deere's 3020, which has the top hole halfway between. Too little difference to effectively bush down (I'm guessing, especially since nobody sells such a bushing in the aisle with all the other tree point stuff)?

What's the cheapest solution here? JD is [i:654c4848f0]very[/i:654c4848f0] proud of the correct/proprietary top link

Not sure on that, but because this loftness snowblower we have, at the horse farm, and believe it or not dear ole dad, tells one of the help to rig something up, not going far or what have you (mind you there is a dealer not far with 3pt hardware) the darned thing flopped over, after the top link came off, and it landed on the auger, knocked the auger and end bearings off, displaced the alignment etc. Who gets to fix it, yours truly ! Bitter cold, snow every other day, like I really needed this, I was livid at the absolute shear stupidity to be quite honest. All it took was a hitch pin, on a vise, drilled a hole in the appropriate spot and 2 bushings, nice correct fit. We have different views on things obviously, in this case I just could not believe how foolish a person can get with something they own. I'll be darned if getting that thing back together new #60 chain, idler and drive sprocket was not the absolute biggest pain in the neck, had to beat on the auger shaft to get it to move, the whole darned thing would have simply been avoided if someone used their head and went and got a few dollars of hardware. Then I leave the blower ready for next season and tell them do not lose or change that pin, just leave it, next time I show up, its gone, ok now you can hire it out, I'm done here, I do not have a tolerance for absolute stupidity, even my own LOL !!! Actually I hate with a passion seeing incorrect pins or hardware in use, it ALWAYS comes back to bite you hard in the wallet.