OT washing Carharts

Heyseed

Member
Well not washing them, but drying is the issue. My Kenmore dryer has been quitting shortly after I run a load. It heats and tumbles fine then quits. Won't restart until it cools for a bit. It sounds louder than I remember too. I took it apart, cleaned everything. The belt and rollers all seem fine. The felt seal is intact and feels slick enough. Do these things have a Hi temp cut off switch? If not any ideas what I need to look at short of the ads for a new machine?
Thanks
 
Not to be a smart arse, but did it used to dry them just fine? Does it still dry lighter loads properly?

Glenn F.
 
(quoted from post at 22:41:01 06/24/13) Kenmore dryer has been quitting shortly after I run a load. It heats and tumbles fine then quits. Won't restart until it cools for a bit....... I took it apart, cleaned everything..... Do these things have a Hi temp cut off switch?

First thing to do is get the model number and go to "searspartsdirect.com". You will find a diagrams and parts for your machine. You should then be able to find where the limit switch/thermostats are located. Inspect your vent duct to verify it is not obstructed. Lint in the duct is a potential fire hazard. There is usually a thermal cut out in the motor, also. Many of the Kenmore laundry machines are relabeled Whirlpool. You may be able to find parts at a local appliance repair facility.
 
Before you tear anything apart check and make sure that all the vent tubing is clear. Mine will act up if anything is obstructed. The flapper on the outside vent cover seems to be the usual culprit. It gets link stuck to it and then will not open all the way. Then the dryer will shut off because it gets too hot.
 
Once again, someone is withholding information! Gas or electric?

I've seen this happen with gas dryers. As I recall, there are two coils on the gas solenoid, one of which is used to initially open the valve and the second to keep it open once the flame is going. What usually happens is the second coil fails so you'll get heat for a minute or so and then the dryer will go cold. The coils are fairly cheap to replace, compared to the entire valve.
 
heyseed... as a repair tech for sears on appliances and specializing in laundry products, i can tell you just by what you stated your gonna need a motor... your motor is getting hot and triping the centrifugal switch in the motor. depending on how old the dryer is, is weather its worth being fixed.
 
Thanks 47, I have fixed a few over the years but
this condition is new to me. It is too old to spend
a lot on. The louder than normal sound made me think
motor. I checked all the rollers and felt seal.
Nothing binding that would cause the sound.
Craigs list here I come
 
You might be surprised at how little you have to spend to get a replacement motor that will work. I would at least price one at an independent appliance parts place. In my experience, parts from Sears are way overpriced, and if I can get non-unique parts elsewhere, I will not deal with Sears.

A few years ago, the motor quit in my Maytag gas dryer. I got a replacement motor that was identical from the parts store for about $75, and it was easy enough to put in. That dryer, which is nearly 20 years old, is still working just fine and is used almost daily.

Buying a used machine might work out OK, or you might just be buying someone else"s problems. I tend to at least try to fix what I have before replacing appliances. Good luck!
 

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