I Need Advice On 966 Timing!

Allan in NE

Well-known Member
Something just does not add up here. :>(

I pulled the injection pump for replacement. Okay, fine. However, I noticed the following:

With the engine set dead on 18°, the timing mark on the hub of the pump does not line up with the pointer; 'bout 1/4" off. And furthermore, the pump is at the extreme end of it's "free travel"??

Also, the timing marks under the side cover do not align.........either with engine at 0° or 18°. Just a tad off.

Two questions:

Do I have to 'pre-load' that new pump before I clamp the gear?

Would this make the thing run hot while under load?

I don't remember any of these irregularities when I replaced the pump on my 1066 last year.

Hope this makes sense and thanks for any input,

Allan
 
As I remember,when I replaced the pump on the Hydro 100,It was a 'simple' thing.All the marks lined up.I just followed the book.The tractor started right up.I did however,use a 'factory'service manual,not an IT manual.I no longer have the SM,it went with the tractor when I sold .
 
I dunno, there is just something fishy with this tractor.

I was told when I bought it that "the pump is about to fail". I've done everything under the sun with this tractor, but it runs hot with any kind of a load.....even bailing hay.

I haven't got the new pump yet, but that mark should easily line up before a guy clamps 'er down. Really shouldn't have to "go over center" on the drive to get it lined up with the pointer, should you?

Allan
 
A quarter inch is a tooth! If the tooth is on the drive gears, that might explain the issue. Is there a chance the cam timing is off a tooth?
If not I would start with it a tooth off on the Pump. (Just thinking without seeing) Jim
 
Yeah,

That's about the distance it is off.

There is a wide range of adjustment on the hub clamp, but this thing is clear up against it's limit of travel (to get it to line up with the pointer).

Just wondering if there is something inside that old pump that possibly was put together wrong to make 'er end up this way?

I really don't wanna talk about cam timing. :>)

Allan
 
That is how my 766 was. #2 cylinder burned a hole in it at 12,000hrs. I sent the pump and injectors off while I overhauled the engine. When I took the pump off I was also off almost a full tooth according to the marks. Since the engine got tore down it wasn't an issue because when it was reassembled everything got lined up properly and the new pump went right on 8) Not sure what to tell you...

Casey in SD
 
Guess I'll see when that new pump gets here.

Hate the thought of tearing that front cover off. Damn thing has less than a thousand hours on a new engine.

Allan
 
Kinda sounds like it's one tooth out... Somebody make a booboo when they built the front end up?

Rod
 
I agree the mark on hub has to align at 18 degrees btdc and will just add that the other mark under side cover will not align. That is used for assembling the head in pump and will usually align with crankshaft approx. 50 degrees btdc. Rebuilt quite a few of those pumps years ago. On a different subject, starters, I noticed you said your 9 must be a cousin to the H with starter problems. If the 9 slams hard on engagement that is caused by a failed overrunning clutch in starter drive. When those tractors were new we had several failures and you could tell by rough engagement. In fact, one new one sitting under the shop canopy yet did it. They changed the drives shortly.
 
Pete has it right, head gear groove is aligned on assembly with tappet at cam base circle, key at 12 O'clock. The port closing begining injection is set .024-.030 tappet lift on cam lobe. The hub mark aligns with pointer at port closing, begining injection. The two marks are never together when head is installed correctly. When hub mark is aligned hub will jump back when gear bolts are loostened as spring loaded tappet is pushed down cam lobe ramp.
 
There will be spring pressure on pump when you turn the shaft with socket to line up timing marks.Have your flywheel on 18 degrees BTDC,then put a socket inside the gear on your pump & turn it in the diretion of rotation until the marks on pump line-up.Then tighten up your gear.Bleed out & crank engine if you not getting it to fire you are 180 out.Reset engine & turn pump 1 full turn and retighten gear.Should run.Your intravance was probably worn out to cause the overheating. good luck
 
Did you get any of the weather that was out that way last night?
I don't have a clue about your tractor, just concerned about you.
 

Maybe a replacement flywheel? I would just get her close, then put her on the dyno to nail it down.
 

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