Help with Chrysler flathead 6cyl

Ive got the irrigation pump inside and ready to work on. Its not getting spark.

The engine block is 23" long so I guess that makes it a 230 ci?

The tag says model 30 type 2158-1 ser # 224899

The block casting is 7484929-22 The first number could be a 1, hard to tell but I thinks its a 7.

If anyone could help me out but giving me any information Id appreciate it. Id like to get this beast running.

Heres a picture of it

You need juice going to the switch, juice going from the switch to the coil. If you have that, check the points for gap and make sure their clean.

Like Cole said you have to start finding out what has juice and what does not starting at the switch. It's no different from any other old gas engine with a distributor ignition. There's a bunch of information about Chrysler flatheads on the net. Just Google Chrysler flathead engines and it will come up. They are about the easiest engines to find information about. Good luck and let us know when you get it going. Jim

The cap and rotor are clean, I didn't check for juice though, Ill go do that.

Check for power with a test light between the coil and dist. Light should come on everytime the points open. If it doesn't fire replace the condencer.
Later Bob

I checked for power between the dist and coil and it always has power, doesn't go on and off.

Guess what, your points are dirty.

Check timing, I've had that problem.

KEH

Points are clean

If the voltage on the wire between the coil and distributor remains constant(doesn't drop to zero when the points close), then the points are not making good contact. When the points close the voltage between the coil and distributor should drop to zero. It doesn't take much oxidation to interrupt the current flow and cause problems. I think cleaning the points will fix the problem.

The points looked like new but I took some 400 grit sand paper to them anyways. The rotor also. Is there some way to test the coil?

Firing order is 1-5-3-2-6-4. Normally "1" on the distributor is at the 7 o'clock position as you look down at it.

Valve clearance is .008 intake and .010 exhaust, hot, for heavy service (at lest that is called for in cars.

The first digit is probably a T, from a Dodge truck. It could be a 218, but likely a 230.

Make sure the points are good and opening/closing properly. Check the distributor cam, too. It is easy to remove to do work on the bench, just the bolt to the front of the dist into the block. Remember waht way the rotor is pointing when you remove it. When you put it back, it will either be right or 180 degrees out. Put the engine with #1 TDC firing when removing distributor. #6 with be TDC exhaust. There is a small plug in the head above #6 so yo ucan use a dial indicator to find TDC to verify timing mark on the crank pulley. Remember it might be 6 volt and someone burned up the points or coil. If it was me, I would do points, condenser, and cap and rotor if damaged.

Chrysler used both Stromberg and Carter carbs.

If using a timing light, connect to cylinder 6 wire per the manual.

Should not be hard to get running or find parts for. These engines were made into the late 60's

Three of the 4 MoPars I own are flatheads, one is a 237 big block in my DeSoto, and the others are 230 small blocks in my Dodge and Plymouth. I drive thousands of miles a year with these engines since my 50 Dodge is my daily driver.

What I said about the dist is the first things I would do/check if my car was to refuse to start in the morning.

Good luck!
Josh

Wheres a good place to find parts?