Cost to bore a Kawasaki FD611V engine?

641Dave

Member
My FIL asked me if I wanted his old lawn mower that he has no need for anymore.

John Deere GX345.

He said it needs to be rebored and new pistons and rings added first. Apparently he had a ring break in the engine and it scored the cylinder wall. These motors are not sleeved either.

Looks like pistons and rings are about $110 but not sure about the bore job.

Also, would you take it to a john deere dealer to fix a kawasaki motor?
 
You will spend less and have more if you drop in one of these
engines.

http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/Welcome/?
search=Gx345
 
Your dealer will either just replace the whole shortblock assy. or send it to a machine shop to have the engine reconditioned. You can take it out yourself and then to the machine shop and eliminate the middle man..
 
I just had a cylinder bored on my Polaris Ranger. Took it off and went to a machine shop with the new oversize piston. $60.00 out the door. They like to have the new piston for trial fit. Thought I got off cheap.
 
You are aware that it will likely cost him less than 250 to get his engine running again? How will it be better and cheaper to spend 1000+ on a Kohler or B&S instead of rebuilding a Kawasaki?
 
The rest of the engine is worn out from the same dirty oil, low oil,failed aircleaner or over heating that ruined the piston/bores.
A fresh bore and pistons does nothing about the worn crank, worn mains, worn rod bearings/rods, worn oil pump. Worn cam, worn timing gears and/or chain. Worn cam, worn followers. Worn walve guides, worn valve stems. Then there is the old ignition, old charging system and old starter.
In the next 2-5 years buddy with the $250 engine job will have spent more than the price of a drop in engine. Buddy won't have spent how much on shop time and running the dead tractor and parts around.
$250 now is penny wise and pound foolish.
The GX345 was built from 2002-2005, has a HD ground engagement trans and a suggested list of $7800 in 2002.
 
I don't care when a GX345 was built or what it cost, has nothing to do with the conversation.
Fact is you suggested replacing a Kawasaki with a B&S. I'm not much of a small engine guy, but I'm pretty sure that the old 'worn out' Kawasaki should last as long as a new B&S. Atleast that's been my experience with B&S.
If you look at your link, you'll notice that the engines you suggested (searched) have different shaft sizes. Doesn't really instill confidence in the website. Not really a drop in engine anymore.
 
Saying the tractor wasn't an old cheap base model, not worth repairing properly. Or were you not able to figure that out?
I've spent less money repairing equipment once rather than reparing it several times.
 
I completely agree with fixing it right the first time. I just don't see fixing the Kawasaki engine as 'the wrong way'. A lawn tractor like that could probably live to about 1500 hours. If he gets 500 hours out of that "rebuild", it will have been worth it to fix it. I don't think 500 hours is a stretch either.
I will say though, you are getting better. Normally you would have told somebody to buy a lawn tractor instead of fixing up this old piece of junk.
 
Wow thanks, d*mmed by faint praise.
If it had been one of those Home Despair econo lawn mowers. Certainly junking the old one and purchasing a new unit with warrenty would be better.
 
I'm heading over this weekend to take a look at it.

My FIL said the machine was used pretty lightly and he thinks there was a manufacturing problem with the ring breaking on him. He keeps things maintained and well kept so I think the rebore would be the best way to go for now.

By the way, the machine shop said $45 a hole if it's over 70mm. $60 a hole if it's under. ...not sure why that's so but that was the quote.
 

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