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Broken off motor mounts

Z

Zach Scherf

Member
Motor mount bolts broke off flush on one side of the block on our white 2-150. We"re gonna drill it and try an easy out tommorrow. We sprayed it tonight and will probably heat it tommorrow. Any tricks or suggestions?
 
When all else fails, just blow it out with a torch! But if you drill through the bolt, heat it before you try to back it out. Vic
 
Drill straight but just a little off center with a small 3/16" or so sharp bit through the bolt to the void at the other end. increase the diameter of the drill until the bit just touches the roots of the threads. Use a cope chisel )or other sharpened tool to bight into the remaining thick side. Tap the twisted off surface toward the exposed threads.
Use juice and tap around in the loosening direction.
The weakened threads will collapse allowing it to be turned out. Jim
 
Yeah unfortunately the bolts are broke off in the bottom of the block near the oil pan so torching them out is out of the question! That would put a hole in the block lol. We will try the easy out and try drilling then if all else fails
 
When a bolt is broken off flush, I like to try and put a flat washer of the same size as the bolt over the broken bolt. Electric weld the inside of the washer to the bolt. Then weld either a square nut or a hex nut to the washer. Use a wrench and start to try and loosen the bolt out of the hole while it is hot. If it moves, let it cool and use penetrating liquid of your choice.
Two things happen, one is you have heated the bolt and the other is the electicity has jumped from the block to the bolt. I think this helps with the removal of the bolt.
 
DO NOT USE AN EZ OUT!!! THEY aren"t that EZ!! Typically break. Then u r screwed! Use the weld/washer/nut method. Apply candle wax to it as it cools. Give wax time to work. It flows between threads, heat of welding helps too. Even let it sit for hours. It has never failed me. Even got tight plugs out of my Ford backhoe using candle wax and engine heat- couldn"t get a torch to the recessed plugs. Had your similar issue with 3020 JD loader tractor and engine mtg bolts.
 
I just had that method Becker is talking about done by an old timer who was showing me how it worked. Only took 6 attempts to get 4 broken off studs out. All I can add is that it isn't a force game, more of a patience game and that you work it back and forth slowly. You should be able to feel it hit the end of travel with a small thump/bump. Also, as it cools just tap on it with a hammer, not hard just a continuous tap. I got all 4 studs out and I figured I was stuck drilling and retapping. Only took about an hour, which I would have easily spent drilling and tapping.
 
(quoted from post at 23:36:18 04/30/13) Use the square easy outs, work a lot better than all the other types. If you don't have any you can get them at NAPA.
Click to expand...

I agree with the square, but around here they are called extractors, never to be confused with EZ Outs which appears to happen a lot. Anyway, I have had very good luck with left handed drill and square extractor, in some very solidly rusted situations.
 
What worked for us one time was:

1. Drill out bolt for extractor.
2. Heat bolt cherry red with torch.
3. Drive extractor in, and remove bolt.

The bolt turned right out like nothing was wrong. Looking back it's almost a variation of "weld a nut to it."
 
(quoted from post at 20:36:42 04/30/13) Great idea m Becker I may try that
Click to expand...

Becker's idea is a good one. I've done that trick many times myself and in my opinion it is always the FIRST thing to try.
 
One thing about welding on machinery with bearings, make sure you have a real good, close, ground on the same metal that you are going to weld on, otherwise the electricity will take the easiest route from ground to the end of the welding rod, which may be thru some roller bearings. If they happen to arc first then you are going to be replacing a bearing. Guy did that on his JD swather once, had to take the gear box out and put in a new bearing.
 
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