Tractor doesn't have a lot of power

I have a ford 8N with a front mount dist and has been converted over ro a 12v system that I am borrowing and have had to do a lot of work to it like replacing the coil due to no ballist resistor and it now has a ballist resistor I also have replaced the ceramic one as well, replaced the wires and plugs and contact points and took carb apart and a basic rebuild mainly just gaskets and cleaned good! Anyway right after I cleaned the carb this tractor ran like a champ! Better than before I got it when it was running! But just for a few hours till I had to stop! Came out a day or 2 later and couldn"t get started and when I could it ran really rough couldn"t even get it to drive without dying bad! I then pulled dist and set gap to the thickness of a matchbook that I had! Always been told that"s a good reference to go off of when setting points! Finally it started, but it sounds and runs good but when you are puttin a load on it like pulling dirt with box blade not much dirt at that it bogs way down an die on me! Even drivin it up a mound a dirt that I previously made when it ran great it bogs down and acts
Like its goon to die!!
Any help would be appreciated! Also I have check to see if maybe not getting enough fuel and when I pull choke it floods it so! Please anything would be awesome!

Sounds like timing may be off.
Set the points to 0.015 will a feeler gauge.

Ok so I just checked the spark plugs and found that one is not sparking! Would that one bad plug cause me to to loose that much power??? I haven't replaced yet fixing to go get another just curious if that one plug would make all the difference!!!

Ok so I just checked the spark plugs and found that one is not sparking! Would that one bad plug cause me to to loose that much power??? I haven't replaced yet fixing to go get another just curious if that one plug would make all the difference!!!
And the spark in the other have a bright blue spark so I would think contacts are ok!

Yes it could. And if the point gap is off the timing will also be off. Both can cause power loss.

well, yeah, all of a sudden you have a 25% loss. + the extra effort the remaining three cylinders have to use to spin the dead cylinder. I'd guess it would cut your power by at least half. And with 2 dead cylinders it would probably not run.

I wish you'd come and borrow some of my stuff!!!

The poor spark on one cylinder will reduce your power by more than 25% becouse the dead cylinder still consumes power every compression stroke.

After the spark is corrected, another thing to check is if the carburator float is set high or it has a leak. Both cause high fuel levels and rich mixtures. Does it smoke black (fuel) not blue (oil) when it runs poorly?

Check the fire to your plugs. Should have a hot blue spark from the plug wires while the engine is at an idle. When you pulled the distributor are you sure it isn't off one tooth when you reinstalled it on the engine? Hal

(quoted from post at 10:18:31 04/06/13) well, yeah, all of a sudden you have a 25% loss. + the extra effort the remaining three cylinders have to use to spin the dead cylinder. I'd guess it would cut your power by at least half. And with 2 dead cylinders it would probably not run.

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.....and on an 8N that pretty much leaves you with no power at all LOL!

Where is your feeler gauge? A match book could vary quite a bit, especially with Chinese cardboard!

The tractor is a front mount dist and can't get it wrong. There are no teeth like a normal dist!

check timing after setting point gap.

(quoted from post at 16:12:25 04/06/13) The tractor is a front mount dist and can't get it wrong. There are no teeth like a normal dist!

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There is still a technique to get the timing right...I used a stack of 1/2" dia. washers and a bolt thru the mounting hole. Then I used a straightedge to align the drive lugs in proper position while I set the points. The guys over on the Ford forum can get you going.....

Front or side mount distributor. If a side mount ya a match book will work fine but is a front mount the gap would be to wide. Front mount gap for the points is 0.015 and a side mount 0.025. As for spark it needs to be a blue/white and jump a 1/4 inch gap at ALL 4 plug wires. As for one that is not firing you loose at least 33% of power that way due to the fact you still are moving that piston. Plugs should be for the best power auto lite 437 gaped at 0.025

In my lifetime 73 yrs, I have had one instance of a condenser going bad, and wouldnt run all the plugs. After days of fighting with it I changed condensers, and fixed the problem.