Farmall H Governer / Carb

I recently reasembelled my H after painting it. I took the carb and manifold off the tractor but did not touch the governer at all other then disconnecting it from the Carb. When I started the tractor up after assembly it runs WIDE OPEN. Dangerously wide open...more than 5th gear full throttle. Moving the throttle back and forth does nothing. Choking it is the only thing that slows it down. The spring in the governer seems to be strong and in tact. What do I need to do????

You missed!!!There is a tab or the governor shaft.There is a fork on the carb.They must be 'mated'.Take it back apart,you will see the problem.Pretty common mistake.

I saw that and thought they looked like they should be mated but I could not get it to go in. I shall try it again.

I saw that and thought they looked like they should be mated but I could not get it to go in. I shall try it again.

That worked! Now I have throttle control. It will idle low when I the throttle is low and it will idle high when the throttle is high. However, if I take the throttle from low to high while it is running it bogs out and cuts off!!

The load screw is too lean. It is located at the very bottom of the carb, pointing toward the rear and downward. This screw ballances the mixture for high speed running and transition to full load. Screw it out in 1/2 turn increments from where it is. If it is no help, the power circuits are still somewhat plugged. Jim

Ok, will try that. However, not sure what a power circuit is.

FARMALL H & M CARBURETOR & GOVERNOR ADJUSTMENTS

Note: #1, 2, & 3 adjustments are done with the engine not running when the carburetor has been removed & replaced.
1. Loosen the 2 screws that are holding the governor tube to the governor housing. The clamp is slotted to allow adjustment. Tighten the tube-to-carburetor screws; gently tap the tube so it "centers" itself, & then tighten the tube-to-governor screws.
2. Remove the top cover on the governor housing (has the pipe going to the cylinder head) and check governor to carburetor synchronization. Remove the cotter pin so the clevis pin can be removed. With the operator's throttle lever set wide open and rotating the horizontal rod upward to wide open throttle position, the clevis pin should just slip into the rod that is in the tube. This horizontal rod should rotate freely allowing the carburetor throttle plate to move from idle to wide open. Adjust the clevis height if needed & lock the nut. You may need small fingers & right-angle needle nose pliers to make the job easier. Return throttle lever to idle. Re-attach the top cover.
3. Carb adjustment: idle air screw is set at 1½ turn out to start with; high speed mixture screw is 2½ or 3 turns out.
4. With the engine warm & running at wide open throttle (WOT), turn high speed mixture screw (on the bottom facing down to the rear) in until the engine begins to starve for fuel. Then turn the screw out until the engine begins to blubber. Now find the "sweet spot" in between the two settings. If you are working the engine (plowing, etc.), then the high speed screw needs to be turned out ½ turn or more beyond the "sweet spot" to be sure the engine isn't starving for fuel and can develop its rated power.
5. The same procedure can be followed for idle air mixture with the addition of setting the idle stop screw (just to the rear of the governor shaft tube) to adjust the low speed RPM.
On the "H"& “M” carb, the idle air mixture screw (faces to the front just below the idle stop screw) is an air adjusting screw so turning in will richen the mixture and out will lean the mixture.
Repeat the carburetor adjustment procedure again to make sure “all is well”.