Alternator

I have a 55 amp delco alternator on the 1135 MF, Deere service manager told me the 468 will draw around 30 amps. I am thinking that I should upgrade the alternator for higher output, will 72 amp be enough, or should a guy do up to 100 amp? The ac is non functioning but I do run the fan and may need the lights also.

Erik,I would just try it as is.If it doesnt have
enough poop for your baler,then you can
upgrade.Doesnt take but a few minutes to change an
alternator..Steve

Don't want to steal your thread, but went to buy a rebuild kit for a Delco 10si and was told by 4 parts houses they are no longer available. Used to get the regulator and diode trio and both bearings for about $10. They told me the only option was a rebuilt alternator.

(quoted from post at 21:25:37 03/05/13) Don't want to steal your thread, but went to buy a rebuild kit for a Delco 10si and was told by 4 parts houses they are no longer available. Used to get the regulator and diode trio and both bearings for about $10. They told me the only option was a rebuilt alternator.

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hose 4 parts places think you are a mushroom! Keeping you in the dark & feeding you B.S. The rebuilders get parts! You can too if you hunt down the right places.

On that 30A baler draw......isn't that for only a few seconds per bale? Not continuous?

The monitor runs constantly when the baler is in operation, yes I would assume that peak draw is in the tying cycle, but would also assume that it draws atleast 20-25 constant during operation.

Just purchase the individual parts now.
Wished I would have got more kits when available.

Eric the baler only uses 30 amps for a few seconds at the end of each tie/wrap cycle when the actuators hit the end of their cycle. The rest of the time all the monitor is doing is reading potentiometers. That will not take 3-4 amps at the most. The monitor does not drive anything it just controls the electric actuators. The twine one just moves the twine arm which is a low amp draw. The mesh warp actuator just tightens a drive belt. These two only draw high amps when they hit the end of their stroke and even then it is just for a second or two.

Long story short your 55 amp will be more than enought power for the baler. Just make sure to have heavy enough wiring/circuit breaker to carry the load for the few seconds. If the voltage drops at the baler it will make the monitor do crazy things.

I always used a Three terminal convenience outlet kit part # AE50549.( $162.34 list) This is a harness, the female plug, a circuit breaker, wiring protecting and a few small ties etc.( I know this seems high but it is one that will power the baler without any troubles. IF you maek your own you may have issues down the raod) Mount the plug in the cab where it will work the best for you. Then run the harness directly to the positive battery terminal that goes to the starter. I usually mounted the circuit breaker close to the batteries. Run a short wire from the battery clamp/terminal to the circuit breaker. Then the hot supply in the harness to the output side of the circuit breaker. Put the ground wire from the harness on the ground side of the batteries.

I always powered any of the balers after the 66 series this way. Even in the older JD tractors. If you try to use the tractor harness 9 times out of 10 the harness will not carry the load and the baler monitor will act up. Just about every time I had someone wire their own power supply I would get a service call out when the baler would not work correctly.

The 100 amp would be alittle over kill. When I bought a White air planter it dew 35 amps wich was what the tractor had on it and it wasent enough. I went to the parts store and got a alternator for a 1968 C60 Chevy truck (external regulater) that was 65 amp and put it on, Problem solved. I would think 65 amp would be plenty for the tractor to run it and keep the battery charged. Bandit

Rock Auto has kits at 26 bucks and rebuilt alts at less than 40. Many sources for kits on line and Ebay. Jim

I wouldn't do anything with it unless it's lighting the charge indicator light from over draw.
Personally... I think it will be fine. The monitor will probably draw 5-10 amp continously and then a peak of perhaps 30 when it's tieing off... The alt you have, if it's working right... will more than cover that. Only reason to change it out would be for a LARGE light package running simultaneously with a fan motor.
I'm guessing that's not a factor...

Rod

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Trying running it all day with the lights on. If it will start the next morning, you have plenty of alternator capacity.

Start the tractor and turn on all electrical components: ie fan hi, all lights and run it up to speed and see if you are between 13.2 and 14.8 volts. If you are, your charging system is sufficient. Gerard

Eric You will be a lot better off following JD Sellers advice and spend you money on the wiring kit than alternator upgrade. I agree with most you want have a alternator problem, if you get it wired correct. The price of the jd kit is cheap considering everything you get. Saves a lot or running around.

I saw the part number in the op manual and have the kit sitting on the dash of my pickup as we speak. When I bought the baler they sold me a convienece plug to wire into the harness on the tractor. The monitor I had for my Vermeer was wired directly to the batts, that was my plan with this one also. When I saw the kit was offered I knew the few extra bucks and a nice neat install would be well worth it come hay time.