Since the bumper & hitch on toolbody bed are welded to the frame, had to cut a hole in the steel plate floor to get into the fuel pump. Anybody got any experience taking the pump out? Looks like it twists, then lifts out. How do you disconnect the 3 lines? Looks like they were meant to be squeezed with your fingers or something.
- Thread starter 2x4
- Start date
Tom in TN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Southern Middle Tennessee
2X4,
I don't know anything about your truck, but I had a serious lapse of good judgement a few years ago when I decided to replace the in-tank fuel pump on my son's 1997 Suburban. After much wishing that I hadn't decided to do so, I dropped the tank out of the car, replaced the pump, and put the tank back up into the car.
It took me hours to do so, lying in the gravel driveway. On the suburban, there is a special tool that is needed to disconnect the fuel lines from the connections on the tank. I bought the tool, but it was still a bear.
Good luck on your project. I hope you are smarter and stronger than I am.
Tom in TN
I don't know anything about your truck, but I had a serious lapse of good judgement a few years ago when I decided to replace the in-tank fuel pump on my son's 1997 Suburban. After much wishing that I hadn't decided to do so, I dropped the tank out of the car, replaced the pump, and put the tank back up into the car.
It took me hours to do so, lying in the gravel driveway. On the suburban, there is a special tool that is needed to disconnect the fuel lines from the connections on the tank. I bought the tool, but it was still a bear.
Good luck on your project. I hope you are smarter and stronger than I am.
Tom in TN
Kyle in KY
Member
To disconnect the lines, there should be white clips that slide into the side notches of the fuel lines. Remove the white clips, than squeeze the oval sides of the fuel lines. At the same time as your squeezing, pull on the fuel lines and they will come off. To install, just reverse process.
To remove the fuel pump, there is a notch ring that rotates around the diameter opening on the fuel tank. Usually you can take a screw driver/punch, with light tapping the ring will rotate. Once you have it rotated to the notches in the tank outer ring, pull up on the fuel pump. Be careful not to damage the float arm, pull it out slowly.
Recommendation, don't install an Autozone or Advance auto brand fuel pump. Spend a little more to get the OEM (Delphi)brand replacement. Carquest or NAPA usually has them in stock. Also check the ground wire from the electrical connector to the frame. If you notice any corrosion, you may want to replace that too. It will prevent a premature failure again.
To remove the fuel pump, there is a notch ring that rotates around the diameter opening on the fuel tank. Usually you can take a screw driver/punch, with light tapping the ring will rotate. Once you have it rotated to the notches in the tank outer ring, pull up on the fuel pump. Be careful not to damage the float arm, pull it out slowly.
Recommendation, don't install an Autozone or Advance auto brand fuel pump. Spend a little more to get the OEM (Delphi)brand replacement. Carquest or NAPA usually has them in stock. Also check the ground wire from the electrical connector to the frame. If you notice any corrosion, you may want to replace that too. It will prevent a premature failure again.
Would have been much easier to put the truck on jackstands, take out the two strap bolts and drop the tank out the bottom. But anyways there is a locking ring that you turn about 1/8 of a turn and remove. Then the sender lifts right out. To get the fuel gauge sender out you have to twist the unit to the front as you pull it out so your hole in the truck bed might not be big enough.
glennster
Well-known Member
There is a lock ring that holds the pump asem in the tank, twist it and lift the ring out. You may need to tap it around. The fuel lines need a special release tool to seperate. It is a split sleeve that you slide in the fitting to release the spring. Its kind of a quick coupler set up. Spray the fitting up good with penetrating oil to flush any rust or sediment out of the fitting.
Similar threads
We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.
Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.
Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy