Finished Basement Ideas

Ok so I have an old farm house that was moved from its original location in the 80's and put on a new block foundation. The new basement was built on high ground and is relatively dry, it doesn't even have a sump pump pit. I am wanting to finish the basement and am not sure what is the best way to finish the walls or putting a sub-floor down. I have read several articles and everyone has different opinions on vapor barriers. I was just curious what some of you have done or had luck with. I appreciate any input, thanks.

I like to build 2x4 walls, so you can plumb things up,have room for electrical boxes and R13 insulation. Use a treated 2x4 at bottom with SPF studs, vapor barrier between block and framing, plus vapor barrier between studs and drywall. You can either put finished flooring directly on the concrete, or, especially if you have the head height, use the 2x2 locking subfloor that is on rubber/plastic feet (don't remember the brand name at the moment).

Guy I knew had a concrete basement. Nailed furring strips to the wall and put styrofoam insulating sheets up and nailed tongue and groove lumber at a thirty degree angle for the finished wall. Kept the upstairs about ten to fifteen degrees warmer in the winter.

Well said. Jim

omahagreg,
Your plan with two vapor bariers causes a moisture laiden space filled with insulation that will wick and hold moisture, leading to a disaster in your sub walls. ( much like leaving soup in a thermos for a week) One should first put up 6mil vapor barier against block wall, then 1" styrofoam locking insulation. Then apply furring strips vertically by pre drilling and installing self tapping concrete screws. Then apply mold resistant sheet rock, (green or purple board). Keep the bottoms at least 1" off the concrete to allow air movement in the furing cavity and prevent wicking.
Chanches are that the concrete floor does not have a vapor barier under it and it will draw moisture. A wood floor directly applied to concrete in this situation will lead to disapointment. As you stated there are new products that elevate the floor, provide a continuous vapor barier, suitable for wood floors in "water free" spaces. If the floor is questionable my recomendation would be a good direct applied epoxy concrete flooring product.
Loren, the Acg.

I do 2x4 walls with R13 insulation and vapor barrier on the inside.

I always lay a treated 2x4 on the bottom and snap a line in 4" from the block. That allows me to straighten the stud wall and keep the studs off the concrete.

My basement is dry, having a tile sytem under the floor and outside around the footer, running to a sump pump. I studded the walls with SPF studs on 2' centers, using 2x4 treated plates to straighten the walls. I used standard fiberglas insulation with the vapor barrier on the drywall side. Been working fine since 1982. Grandkids test it every time they come home.

There is a paint product. Cant remember the name, good lumber yards will have it (I dont do box stores) It is intended as a water barrier for basement walls. It is white, and will hold back quite a bit of water pressure. I would like it better than a plastic vapor barrier. It rolls on and stays put. It dries really hard.

I then put the blue, styrofoam sheets up. 1" thick. Then I laid 2X4's flat against the foam and used tapcon concreted screws to secure them to the walls.

I then sheetrocked, finished the sheet rock and painted it. You can get shallow, plastic, electrical boxes. I screwed them to the studs, that were laid flat, but I cut the blue foam board out behind them to allow more room. Wires can be run behind the 2X4's, just take a screwdriver and mash the foam down to allow room for the wires.

I did this on one wall cause I needed the space and didn't have room for a 2X4 on edge like normal. On the other walls, instead of sheet rock, I had some 1", sycamore planks that I had cut on the farm. I put on a non shiny finish and nailed those to the 2X4's laid flat. Some of these boards were 10" to 18" wide. I put "batten strips" cut from the same boards over the cracks. Top and bottom trim was made out of the 1" sycamore.

The foam really made the basement warmer.

We put a vinyl rolled flooring down direct on the concrete. they used an adhesive glue that just holds it in place. You can peel it up if necessary. It is thick, has some give to it, and it mold resistant and anti-bactierial in case of water issues.

Good luck, Gene

Yes... well said indeed.
Sometimes we will use a variant of that system - instead of the furring strips, will use metal stud track top and bottom (your choice of 1 5/8" or 3 5/8") and set either wood studs in the larger track or use 1 5/8" metal studs in the smaller track. Makes running utilities and electric easier. The nice part of the hybrid metal/wood system is you stand the wood studs like a metal stud wall - stick by stick rather than trying to tilt up a wall in a basement. But as discussed above, the furring strips are a good solution too.
Poor Farmer - definitely pay attention to Loren's info above and to vapor barriers and insulation.
Good luck

Tony

House's we do we go with 2x4 studs 16' on center with a treated bottom plate. We set them out 4 1/2" from the wall to make sure they go up straight. Then we use R13 fiberglass friction fit insulation with a 4 mil vapor barrier over the studs followed by sheetrock. The 2x4's give you room for electric box's and the fiberglass ins. Been doing it this way for going on 36 years with no problems to date.

Sorry to dissappoint you guys, that is Omaha code!

apply a waterproofing sealer to the face of the block wall to keep moisture and water out.
I don't like drywall in a basement do to the inherent humidity and cool walls--promotes mold--so i have always studded or furing strips with real wood paneling.
tile or linoleum floor as a moisture barrier.
Run a dehumidifier in warm weather

DRY LOCK

Very bad idea to use two vapour barriers. The absolute proper way to do it is to put typar/tyvek/tar paper on the concrete side of the wall and 6mil vapour barrier on the inside with 2x4 studs between. Whether or not it's Omaha code doesn't matter, it's still a bad idea that will lead to moisture and mold problems prematurely.

We built ours 25 years ago. On the outside, I put a lot of a product called Marine Mastic followed by a layer of the heaviest plastic I could find. (don't remember the mil. thickness) On top of that, 2" blue Styrofoam insulation. Perimeter drains- one just below footer, second at 2', third at 5'. On the inside, 2x4 studded walls, set away from the blocks at least 1" for full air circulation. On top of that, we used T&G maple 1x6 that were cut from a tree that was in the front yard. It was carpet for 20 years until the wife decided to have the full basement tiled. Never a problem.

I've finished a bunch of basements.
I wont do it unless the basement is pretty dry - no evidence of water staining etc.
I frame them up with 2x4s. You will lose a couple of square feet that way but the advantages are it is much less labor, easier to wire and easier to insulate with fiberglass.
I do not use a vapor barrier but if I did it would be on the concrete side of the studs. I just let them breathe. I use green treated sheet rock. Only costs about a buck a sheet more than white so why not?

as a rule, I always user pressure treated on anything that comes in contact with concrete.

I use a vapor barrier on the warm side of the insulation - and you definitely will want to insulate.

Also like to insulate the floor with rigid insulation - between furring strips - if you've go the headroom for a finished floor (check your local codes, might require more headroom than you'd think).

Dry lock on the block walls (2 coats) Foam against the block then 2x4 wall. No vapor barrier. If in doubt ask a contractor to avoid mold mildew problem, vapor barrier in basement will sweat the walls.

If you are using tongue and groove styrofoam sheets and seal any joints you don't need any other vapor barrier, the styrofoam will act as one. Probably wouldn't hurt to drylock the concrete first.

Consider Georgia Pacific Densarmor Plus Drywall. Costs a bit more but it is paperless. Both Green and Purple drywall are treated but still have paper on the back.

I have a dry basement. Thought about finishing it off at first. Each time a water heater, clothes washer, pipe leaks, something upstairs leaks and the water always finds it's way to the basement.

Can't answer your question on vapor barrier, however I would say plan on your finished basement getting wet. That said I would use foam board insulation that won't hold moisture.. Perhaps keep it off the floor a few inches. Never use carpet or wood, instead cermaic tile. I had carpet pieces in my basement only to pitch them when they got wet.

I think vapor barrier would be the least of your problem. May-be insulation with metal foil, glue it on to furring strips may not need a barrier. You need to think how do I get the water out from behind it when you have an accident and you will have trust me, Think MOLD ISSUE.

I'm on a well. Water softner decided to leak on the basement floor. I rigged up a device that detected the water on the floor and shut off the pump. Glad I didn't have a real mess to clean up.

Well, I bought my house 35 years ago, many basement floods, family is all gone and really no need for a finished basement. In a way, I'm glad I didn't. I have a large 3 bed home and only me left.

George.

(quoted from post at 21:02:42 02/28/13) Sorry to dissappoint you guys, that is Omaha code!

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I can see having two vapor barriers because below grade you have to anticipate moisture coming in from outside, as well as trying to get into the wall from the inside. So how do you guys decide which way the moisture is coming from.

You may want to install a sump pit and interior drain tile while eveything is relatively accesible, it will increase the resale value of your home. Check with your insurance company if you can insure a finished basement without a sump pump, you may not be able to in the future.

It doesn't take much moisture to get mold started under carpet and inside basement walls. One downspout left off is all it takes.

I used metal 2x4 studs on mine and kept the drywall about an 1 1/2 inch off the floor. Used ceramic tile. Had it floor once from a backup up outside drain, no issues.