Cub 12 volt conversion

I have a 1958 IH Cub and would like to convert it to a 12 volt system. What parts would I need using Yesterday's Tractor's parts list.

If you don't mind me asking why do you want to convert it to 12 volts?

I'd have to wonder too. With the correct cables,you should be able to run that tractor on electric power with a six volt battery.

My tractor is not charging. Rather than diagnosing the problem I thought conversion would be a better solution.

Don't let the guys bully you, a 12V system is much more convenient and dependable. I would keep the original parts in case you want to be original. There are posts here on how to do it.

We're not trying to bully him at all David. I wanted to ask a couple of questions to where maybe I can help him. A cub spins over very easily with a 6 volt system so I don't think 12 volts is in line. He has a charging problem that I will try to help him with.

Its your tractor and the decision to convert or not is yours. If you choose to do so and if its a battery powered coil distributor ignition you can EITHER add an external series voltage dropping (12 to 6) Ballast Resistor between IGN switch and coil orrrrrrrrrr get a new 12 volt rated coil no ballast required.......You need a 12 volt Genny and 12 volt VR or else use an alternator most of which require changing to Neg ground......The starter can still work at 12 volts. If you change from the original Pos ground to neg ground the coil leads need reversed as well as the ammeter leads.

EASIER METHOD you may want to run through my non charging Troubleshooting Procedure to make yours charge at 6 volts so theres no need to change coils or polarity etc??

Your tractor your call

John T
John Ts Troubleshooting

I have 3 Cubs here, one was converted to 12 volt before I got it. That one is the only one I have had Elect. problems with. When working rite, the only gain I can see is brighter lights. The one with a snow plow on it (6 volt) always starts setting outside down to 0 deg.
You just need to keep everingthing in good working order.

Ok Ted so your 6 volt system isn't charging. I'll try to walk you thru a few steps to decide what component is your problem.

1. With the engine & generator running wide open throttle. Take a test light and hook it up to battery feed cable-not battery ground to the frame. Then take your test light and touch it to the "A" terminal on your generator. If the light comes on the generator is not charging.

2. With the engine & generator running wide open use a wire and ground out the "F" terminal on the generator to the tractor frame or battery ground momentarily while holding your test light on the "A" terminal again. If the light goes out the generator is good. You may need a 2nd person to help you with this test procedure.


3. If step two shows a good generator I would say your regulator is most likely bad or has a bad connection which is usually to ground.
4. If your generator tests to be good. I then would use a battery trickle charger and hook up to the ground on the battery and the appropriate lead I would hook to the battery terminal on the voltage regulator then check to see if the meter on the charger is showing an output if so then I would check the amp meter on the tractor which should be showing some charge going thru it. The battery charger is taking the place of the generator for the time being. I use a charger to check my trailer lights all the time. It's easier to use it than hook up my truck to the trailer.

5. The generator and mounting bracket along with the voltage regulator all need a good connection to the tractor frame at all times to make it functional, this will be true with a 12 volt alterntor system as well. The only difference you'll get with an alternator is it will charge better at an idle.

I know what I've explained here is very blunt or vague but after working on old equipment with generators and reading about them in the old Motor Books I have developed these short cuts to quickly diagnose them. My dad and I have had Farmalls with 6 & 12 generators on them. We've never had any problems with them. We always kept the connections clean. A little understanding of electrical circuits is helpful but not required.
My email is open I can scan and email the info on generators if you like.

Hope this helps.

I know, sorry

Thank you for your reply. My generator is bad. I was able to find a new 12 volt conversion kit from Charlie's Repair, Austin MN for $165.

Not a direct answer to your question, but, I had a Cub and purchased a 6V alternator from J C Whitney for about $60. I only had to fabricate a bracket for the alternator and to change the polarity of the coil. It worked very well.

Great, we took care of that!!! Troubleshooting to see if its a Genny versus the VR or other problems isnt really all that difficult.. While a bad genny could have been repaired also, sounds like your kit will do the trick...

Congrats

John T

I have dealt with Charlie, good guy. His brackets look very nice. I would never use universal brackets on an upgrade.

Most of older 6 volt tractors run fine on a maintained 6 volt system. About only reasonable excuse is the need for brighter lights for night work or required lights for road travel in a few places that require front,back and turn signals and a flasher-- or as my brother did on one H to run the fancy music box that was 12 volt as well as the CB along with the brighter lights. I've replaced a couple old car generator rigs with one lead alternators, they helped some in winter starts but these were 12 volt systems to start. RN. RN

I had a 6 volt system. I changed over to a 12 volt, much easier starting. 6 volt, maintained well, is ok. But 12V is better.

Ted, Try www.farmallcub.com & look under 12v conversions, I did (2) 12v swaps using the Hitachi altenators, using the orginal cub generator brackets, & cost of the altenators were around $60.00 ea. Good luck Dave F.

Glad to hear you got what you want and what you need. There's a lot of good guys on here!

I have a 62 cub with a Wagner loader that gets a lot of use. The conversion is the way to go. A Delco one wire alt is available at any parts store. The whole procedure is relatively simple.