Not a Farmer - Plows

Dr. Walt · Feb 23, 2013

First let me state, I'm NOT a Farmer, I'm a MINER, but I'm trying to understand all of the different parts of a plow and how they relate to each other. As I understand it, the "shin" and the "share" do the actual cutting and loosening of the soil, while the "moldboard" rolls the soil off to the side of the furrow, and the "frog" ties it all together and fastens to the shank.
Is this correct? - Now, what is the "landside" for?

Thanks in advance for helping me understand it.

Doc

bradley martin · Feb 23, 2013

The landside counteracts the sidedraft created by the moldboard rolling the furrow slice and keeps the plow(s) pulling straight. If they weren;t there the plow would pull at an angle. The tailwheel also aids to counteract the sidedraft on most plows.

John B. · Feb 23, 2013

Dr. Walt,

You understanding or description is correct. The reason for replaceable shins & shares are because they are the high wear areas of a plow. If the moldboard, shin & share were all one piece like they were originally 200 years ago you would have to replace the whole piece for wear on one spot. Thus you would have a new plow and an old frame. The tail wheel mostly aides in lifting multiple bottom plows. As for as helping hold them straight I would have to disagree because on later model plows the tail wheel was allowed to swivel. One thing you didn't mention was the coulter which is a rotating disc blade that slices the soil just ahead of the share and moldboard. This eases the draft or energy needed to pull the plow. It also creates a nice clean cut furrow once the plow has passed.

FBH44 · Feb 23, 2013

The plow works in sequence as it pulls along; the coulter makes a clean vetical slice so there is no rough tearing of the sod. The plow makes a horizontal slice down below the sod, the leading point makes the first part of the slice. This horizontal slice would be constant-thickness if addjustment is correct. The moldboard lifts this slice up, and turns it over upside down. Doesn"t really loosen the soil, if it is a heavy sod. If you"re on a good quiet old tractor, in good soil, the plow makes a nice ssshhhhh sound as it pulls along.

Billy NY · Feb 23, 2013

Old type of plow with one piece mold board and shin, but I think you have the right idea.

This darned photobucket site has changed and you can't copy the darned link like you used to, I need to learn another way to post a photo, really don't like what they did here, unless I have missed something, this photo may come out too small.

Billy NY · Feb 23, 2013

try this one

Larry NEIL · Feb 23, 2013

The landside is the backside of the plow at the bottom. It is rubs against the furrow wall after the share cuts the soil.

Berth 29 opinions · Feb 23, 2013

This should be a photo of my Mccormick plow. On this side the coulter cuts the dirt square, along with the share and shim. The landside is at the bottom right, fits in the 90* angle to stabilize everything.

The shorter landside in the middle is worn out and hard to see.

The other photo is of the front, I was starting a furrow to help keep it upright over the winter, the share is underground.

PJH · Feb 23, 2013

It's interesting - all my life I thought the word was "landsLide" with an "L". I have read "landside" on here a lot, but thought it was a spelling issue. All of you guys using the same spelling have convinced me that I was wrong. Or - mebbe it's a regional thing.

armand tatro · Feb 23, 2013

Are you intentionally leaving your plow in the ground over winter "to keep it upright". If so that is a big NO-NO as it will cause the coulters, bottoms, and landsides servere rusting which will decrese its lifespan and decrease its efficiency the next time you try to use it! We would never leave ANY TILLAGE TOOL in the ground over night let alone all winter. If it needs support when unhooked better to unhook it on a skid with a support leg as this will allow air around it. Allso paint or grease all shiney wear surfaces to prevnt rust. Armand

Fordfarmer · Feb 23, 2013

I've always said/spelled it with the L, too... Just looked in Shoup's catalog, and they spell it without the L.

Royse · Feb 23, 2013

John B. you said " I would have to disagree because on later model plows the tail wheel was allowed to swivel".
That got me thinking, would this be different between types of plows?
I know the plow I used when I worked for a guy actually had linkage
hooked to that wheel to help lift the plow. Front was 3 pt hitch. Semi-mount?
On the other hand, my little Ford 2 bottom 3 pt hitch plow has a solid steel
tail wheel with flat sides angled to run against the furrow wall.
These are commonly referred to as a rolling landside.
BTW, did anyone mention jointers?
These are not my plows, just examples of two different types.

MJ in the UK · Feb 23, 2013

Armand is right DO NOT leave the plough (english spelling) in the ground over winter. Clean ang grease all wearing parts and then cover them with old sacks etc. Heare in the UK a Jointer is called a Skimmer and a Coulter is called a Disc. Just before I read this post I loaded my tractor and plough on my trailer ready to go and compete in a ploughing match tomorrow. My tractor is a 1955 IH B250 and my plough is a IH B12 2 furrow (bottom) plough set at ten inch furrow widths and I plough six inches deep with IH MPB match plough bottoms. MJ

fixerupper · Feb 23, 2013

A guess as to why it's called landSIDE is it's on the land-side of the furrow. There's the furrow side and the land side. Jim

donjr · Feb 23, 2013

In my usual attempt to be a smartazz around here, I was gonna chime in on the 'landslide-landside' thing. I looked it up in JD parts, and it is 'landside'- no 'l'. And I've been calling it a landslide all these years, like the rest of the hillbillies around here.....

LA in WI · Feb 23, 2013

Berth 29,

Not meaning to "pile on" here, but your seasonal storage method for your plow could end up being very expensive. I suggest that before you unhook your plow after use you apply a coating of grease to all the shiny parts including the coulter. Then set it down on a pallet or some treated boards or maybe even something like patio blocks, with enough height to keep everything well off the ground.

Seems like nothing rusts faster than parts that help turn the soil. When I take plows to shows I like to have everything clean and shiny. But with shows that go for more than one day, after one night of a heavy dew, a light shower or heavy rain those moldboards start to rust by noontime next day. So keeping your plow in soil will let moisture do it"s damage and you won"t like the result.

If grease is not your thing, then use spray-on graphite or oil based paint; anything to keep moisture off those expensive parts! Paint will wear off quickly when you start to plow.

You have a nice looking plow! Hope you can enjoy using for many more years.

LA in WI

bradley martin · Feb 23, 2013

Exactly, larry....not sure what you are trying to correct me on!!

Berth 29 opinions · Feb 23, 2013

I understand your concern. Next winter it will be in a storage shed, but it will be the first time. When my father had it, he and both my uncles would just leave plows out in the woods till next year. I had taken it off to do cultivating, but before I got the fasthitch put back on the tractor needed repairs.

Soon as I replace the wheel on the tractor and get it going again, I will move it.

PJH · Feb 23, 2013

Yeah Jim, your explanation makes sense. Like the land wheel and furrow wheel. I thought it was landslide because it slid against the face of the furrow, and lots of folks (me included) have always pronounced the "L". I also remember watching the old blacksmith sharpen plowSHEARS. I think that's also a regional thing. Kinda like "fire" being pronounced "far" in my neighborhood. . . Paul

Leroy · Feb 24, 2013

I think plowShears comes from the German word for them, plowSHARES from the english language. The area I am from was all sttled by German folks. And it was shears. Like ketshup and catsup being the same but from different countrys.

Not a Farmer - Plows

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