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OT—Roofing a trailer house?

6

641Dave

Member
Anyone here ever deal with putting a roof on a trailer house? We've got a single wide 18x80 that we're living in at our new place and it looks like we'll be in if for a few more years. The roof is one of those metal roofs that is rolled over the entire top and nailed in around the edges of the roof. I'm afraid the previous owner has walked on it while putting the seal coating on and now it's stretched so bad it's blowing in the wind like a tarp. It's loud and with such movement, if I seal it again it's just going to be a couple of years before we're doing it again.

Any suggestions and/or horror stories would be welcome.
 
I understand your not planning on staying there long, but in
my limited mobile home experience, nothing short of a 2x4
pitched roof is a satisfactory solution.

Glenn F.
 
I agree with Glenn- there's not much you can do with those mouse's ear thin metal coach roofs, if they start leaking. Far better to build a little pole barn roof over the top. It also will be MUCH cooler in the home during the summer, because the home will always be in the shade. You can also go out further on one or both sides, especially the sunny side, for a patio or carport, and shade for the side of the house.
 
I have seen good results wjth "roof overs"with R panel or 3 tab that ranged from securing a 2x8 to wall studs on both sides as a plate and framing same as a stick built house to basicly building a pole barn over the trailer. There are a couple of nation wide roof over companies advertising in the electric co-op magazines.
I have been involved with replacing metal roof on two travel trailers and both turned out a mess because not being able to streach and hold the new metal. C-clamps on 2x4s with metal in between and pulling with come-a-long sounded good but it didn't work. :cry:
 
We built a roof over my BIL's double wide. Ended up with a combination pole barn conventional roof on an addition. So far, it has lasted several years.

Larry
 
and i agree with mike, when you get ready to build a house, pull the trailer out and close in the sides with metal and have a big shop to keep toys in
 
2" Cement blocks placed dead center in each section. Heavy enough to keep from blowing off, light enough to keep from falling through the tin. The one I lived in was like that with a month of me moving into it, and couldnt sleep because ofthat racket!
 
pitch up some used tires they will be heavy enough to stop the racket and wont rub a hole in the roof
 
We did it to my in-laws many years ago, set the sill right on top, 4/12 pitch 2X4 rafters. An addition on the side with an intersecting roof, looked nice, But! I like the idea of the pole shed cover, then when you move up to a real house you will have a nice shed! You could also lay some fiberglass insulation on top to make it more thermal efficient.
 
Putting tires on it is very normal, but way ugly.
Put two rows of 2X8s on edge down the center long ways front to back 3 feet apart, put 2X6s between them and the edge, and 2X4s along the edge. Next purchase corrugated steel (or standing seam steel)siding the full width plus 4 inches. Put fiberglass insulation under the roofing, and cut treated wood for end blocking front and rear of trailer. Use the ribbed "gasket" on the edges to block the air gaps. This is a permanent solution, and gives dramatic improvement in insulation and resale value. Jim
 
1) pole building with a pitched roof is best.

2) is it set up on blocks with a sag in the middle. long trailers flex a lot and the extra roof looseness may be due to frame set up.
 
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