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Leaking Head Studs

D

David G

Well-known Member
The head gasket on the MH44 has been leaking since the motor was overhauled. I pulled the head off tonight, and it looks like the studs that go into the water jacket are leaking.

The machine shop put them in with PTFE and installed the head. What do you guys seal head studs with? The gasket also was really stuck to the head and came right off the block. I could see copper coat on the block.
 
Plumber's paste pipe dope is good and allows disassembly. The type with PTFE is acceptable to me and I use it with success. Clean the holes before using it and just use enough to fill the stud threads. Jim
 
I'm building another one right now, have all the studs out, I put them in with #2 Permatex from the tube, they never leak. I always install the head gasket on the Masseys dry, but they must be re-torqued after warmed up, and be sure to re set the tappets also.
 
Mike, what is the #2 permatex? I have been using "the right stuff" on other things, did re-torque, but did not stop leaking.
 
Permatex aircraft sealant works good. The bolts and holes need to be clean for sealing and to get the proper torque.
 
I have always had good luck spraying the threads with copper head gasket gasket spray. Two coats, letting it dry a bit between. Never had a leak with a thread into the water jacket. They come out easily if they ever need to be removed later.

Josh
 
Rebuilding with old stretched and fatigued fasteners?
Go to a any one of the industrial suppliers and pickup new fasteners. They are not expensive. Then put pipe dope on the block threads.
 
I have used most all thread sealers on head bolts/studs the only 2 I believe in are permatex aviation cement are a guarantee kill permatex 51813...
I have been very disappointed with teflon sealer the only leaks I have ever had I used that sealer on the head bolts... It will self seal with no sealer given time its not a show stopper unless the studs are under a valve cover...
 

One thing I observed on threaded pipe fittings for plumbing work. One time I did have any tape and elected to use a PTFE sealant. Several of the fittings leaked water when the system was placed in service - additional tighening did not help. I disassembled the leaking fittings and noted an absence of sealant inside the fitting. It was as if the female fitting wiped the sealant off the male threads as they were threaded together.

I reassembled the fitting placing sealant on the inside of the female fitting in addition to the male threads. No more leaks. I believe this method allows sealant to be pushed into the thread spaces when the system is pressurized thereby effecting a seal.

For tractor work I tend to use sealants rather than tape. I believe the various sealants will work however they have to be carried into the thread spaces to effect a seal. Of course one always needs to use sealants or tape sparingly to prevent contamination.
 
Loctite 508. Stuff will seal anything. I've used it on hydraulics, water, much better than the hardware plumber stuff. And better than teflon tape.
 
(quoted from post at 08:29:40 01/17/13) Good to know that somebody cares about doing the job right .
Click to expand...

B&D, are you familiar with high performance head bolts? One manufacturer is ARPS. They showed some to me at the shop where I was getting my Navi. 6.0 repaired. There was a very noticeable difference. I am thinking of putting them in one of my Fords that I am thinking of turning up.
 

PTSE (PASTE) must NEVER be used where petroleum products are present..it will turn into a nasty Slime and cease to seal..
For general sealing, I only use "Gasket-Making Sealer", anymore...

Ron..
 
Showcrop,

When drag racing, we use nothing but ARP bolts in everything. Especially on engines with a supercharger, turbo, or nitrous.

Typically I use studs instead of the bolts. On an enclosed engine compartment, you may have to pull the studs if you are going to remove a head.

Rick
 
Most head studs that screw into a water jacket, the stud has a shallow thread, ( fat thread) on one end. If you can screw the stud in with your finger or a nut on that end, not only will it leak it will also pull the thread in these old cast blocks.The same goes for the manifold studs on the cylinder head of the unstyled 2 cyl Deere.
 
David
Permatex is an old name, been around for years. There two original sealers that my Dad used and I still use are #2 in a tube which is a paste and #1 aviation in a can with a brush cap, more liquid. Google them for info. I was a professional auto mechanic for years and learned to use all the modern sealers etc. Silicons, anaerobic, locktite, etc., they all have there place. When It comes to tractors and heavy trucks it's a different story. Silicones and Teflons seal, but also lubricate, and Ive had these products in time and under severe pressure let gaskets work out of a joint or two castings, under conditions like that a sticky sealer that sets up is needed that will hold that gasket in place under pressure or vibration. Permatex is the one for that job, it's sticky, gooey, and stinky, you can't get it off your fingers without using lacquer thinner, I also use it for installing oil seals, they will never blow out. It is still available at NAPA, I just bought a tube last fall. I have been burnt too many times using modern sealers on old tractors, the gaskets will be ruined on disassemble though. this is what works for me. Good luck on you shoulder surgery, mine are bad also, been for years but I'm not ready to take that big step yet, I don't like Doctors gettin close to me with cutlery!
 
David, I read all posts below and did not see anyone say Permitex indian head shelak. Oldschool
Black tar never had one leak with that on it!
oldiron29
 
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