O/T Air compressor power

SteveinMo

Member
I have been given a 5HP air compressor it has a 220V 30Amp. electric mtr. I would like to convert it to a gas engine as I do not have 220V in my TRACTOR shop. Is this even sensible? If so how much HP gas mtr. do I really need and how do you cycle a gas engine on and off when air pressure setting is reached. I have no experience with gas powered compressors but have seen them on construction sites often.
 
I'm thinking it would be cheaper and more convenient to just replace the 220 volt motor with a 110 volt motor.
 
It could be switched over to a gas engine but you would need about a 10-12 HP one plus you would need an unloader valve and a couple other parts and pieces. Look that motor over real good I almost bet you can do a bit of wiring in the cord cover and switch it to 110 volts
 
I did check the 220/110 thing but not on this mtr. Spoke with Doug at Commerical Mtr. here in St. Louis he said that a 110 mtr. just wont start that big of a pump. I was going to set the compressor up outside but if it takes that much HP gas I just won't deal with it. I really don't need a unit this big it was just free. Possibly I could trade it off for something 110.
Thanks for all the inputyou guys are the best.
 
You could use a 110v motor with different pulley sizes to allow it to pump, just not as fast. Also along the same line see if your motor can be switched to 110v. Or the all time favorite, put a belt pulley on it and run it with your tractor!
 
Converting that motor to 110 V is not a good idea. Going to be a extremely high load at that voltage. Converting to gasoline engine will require some extra control circuits to properly manage the engine.
 
Yiou need a pressure sw on the carb that will idle the engine when pessure is built up then when pressure drops the engine will speed up to pump just like the portable ones have. Your motor is a 3450 220 motor so changing to 110 is out without pulley matching and it would be awful slow.
 
It won't be cost effective, thocertainly possible, to switch from 220 electric to a gasoline engine.

As well it will be a much less tool for you most of the time, pain in the rear to maintain another engine, and can't use it indoors or you die, and heavier, and....

The obvious solution is to run 220v to your shop, youcertainly got the compresser because it was a good deal, add the savings into how much nicer your shop will be with 220v for many things, and it's the way to go. Be sure to do the wiring right, you don't want to skimp by with a 30 amp service, you or next owner will want a 50 amp welder, and a few small motors, and the compressor, and some lights running.....

It's so eay to spend other's money, isn't it? :)

But, really, you have to agree, it will end up being the right way to go. Give up a few weekends of beer, or a few snacks in the middiler of the day, and buy some copper or aluminum. You'll look back on it as one of your best months ever!

--->Paul
 
I'm with Paul, when you start adding up the cost of an engine and all the things you'll need to make it work properly (and safely) you will be better off running 100 amp 220/240 power to your shop.
That is.........unless your shop is far far away from a power source.
 

Are you absolutely sure you don't have 220 there? I don't know how you could get one side without the other, unless it is something real old and mickey mouse. Just because there are no 220v circuits doesn't mean it's not there. I ran out to a sub panel in my barn a long time ago. It would have been way more expensive to run 115 than 220.
 
A 3 HP compressor is usually equivelant an 8 HP gas engine so a 5 HP would probably need 10 to 12 HP. You'd need to check the RPM and get the proper pulley for the correct speed but it's not a real big deal. You just have to get an automatic unloader so it kicks out when the pressure is at 100 or so. You can buy compressors brand new like this. Auto idle is nice but you still need the unloader. Some people prefer the unloader on an electric compressor so the motor keeps running at full speed.
 
It"s been mentioned several times to use a 120V motor with the compressor RPMs reduced via pulleys.
As previously stated. It"s has to be one Micky mouse electrical service to not have 240V. Just run. Proper service to the shop and be done with it. You need power for a welder too.
 
It"s been mentioned several times to use a 120V motor with the compressor RPMs reduced via pulleys.
As previously stated. It"s has to be one Micky mouse electrical service to not have 240V. Just run. Proper service to the shop and be done with it. You need power for a welder too.
 
My 5 HP is on a 30A circuit and it will trip the breaker when the compressor is really cold. If that was 110V it would be 60 amps and would require really large wires. You have 220V at your breaker box, you just might need to run some different wires.
 
It doesn't. But you need to double the engine HP over electric then add for reserve as you don't want to labor it .
 
A 30 amp breaker is way too small for a 5HP 240V motor with
28 FLA. should be 50amp iirc. 175%
The breaker is for short circuit protection to protect the
supply and wiring . The thermals in the motor starter provide
overload protection.
 
Just looking at the proper numbers. The 175% was for time
delay fuses, not breakers which are sized to 250% of FLA.

28 amp motor requires #8 copper wire, time delay fuse
45amp, breaker 70amp and thermal protection heaters set at
35 amp.
Or she is going to trip when nothing is wrong and not trip
when something is wrong.
 

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