When I get a truck load of logs, I mark the logs in 2 foot lengths, to buck into firewood,, When I cut random dead wood in my woods 12 inch in diameter and less I just eye it. If I was in the major league I'd be batting pretty low, iv cut wood for years, but I miss the 2 foot length, either to short or to long, I can fit a 28 inch piece in my stove if put in on a angle. But I don't like 18inch sticks!! How good are you at eyeing the length you need? Guess it don't really matter, its wood, and I'm gonna burn it!
- Thread starter JayinNY
- Start date
tomtirediron
Member
Jay I'm waiting on firewood delivery. I'm Paying 65.00 for loose volume cord on truck 100" all Red Oak. What do you pay out there?
TomH in PA
Well-known Member
I carry a stick that's a measured length for my stove. Walk down the log and cut a notch at each section, then go back and saw through. Otherwise, yea, pieces too long or too short every time.
Russ from MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Bemidji MN
Exactly! it all burns! I cut mine all different lengths, we have 2 different stoves and our son has one that uses an in between size. I cut the really large diameter logs into shorter blocks so they are not so heavy to lift into the splitter and the shorter it is the faster it dries. Out stove takes 22" wood so I built our splitter to only take logs up to 22" I save the longer sticks for colder nights and use the shorter junk now when it's pretty warm. I have 22" marks on my trailers and wheelbarrows so if I think one is too long I can check it and maybe cut it in two for the smaller stove. Recently I skidded out some large ash trees (18" diaX60') and I will probably cut it up more consistent. I think I can eyeball to within an inch of 20".
Hi Jay, I like to cut my fire wood in 16" lengths in preparing for the stove. My estimate is alway's off by an inch or more either way,guess it must be the diameter of the wood that get's me confused in cutting the proper length. The stove will only take a piece 20" in length. I do sometimes get annoyed with myself for not cutting the proper length, but it doesn't matter only when it won't fit in the stove. Cheers, Murray
I'm not sure I understand what your paying, for how much your getting. Here a tri axle load of logs is about 6-7 cords and is $650 to $700, I bought 2 5 cord loads last march for $550 apiece, mixed hard wood, log length, 10 years ago 6-7 cords log length sold for $325.!
pat sublett
Well-known Member
I use my saw to measure it.
morgan in ar
Member
I cut mine 16 inches. Since I usually use a saw with a 16 inch bar, I just turn the saw length wise with the log or branch before each cut. It only takes a second, and it dose not require extra tools. Even if I am using a 14,18 or 20 inch bar, it will get me close enough. If I don't do this, I'll get 24" small pieces and 12" big diameter pieces.
morgan in ar
Member
you beat me to it.
ShadetreeRet
Well-known Member
It's true, as someone mentioned, some folks have a problem judging the length of a cut because of the diameter of the tree, I always did if it was a fairly large tree. I always tried to cut mine approx 18". Never liked for it to be too near the end of the firebox. For average logs or laps, I used a saw with a 16" blade. If I wasn't sure of my judgment, I would use the guide bar for a measuring stick.
Its part of the game, stacking, stove size, making common sizes for sale etc.
I use the bar on the saw and narrow it in, 18" will easily work in my old Ashley HFR 25, but I prefer 16", so from a 20" bar including what is under the sprocket cover I walk along the log, eyeball 4" less, don't take my eye off that spot and put a mark with the saw.
I thought my friend had some kind of accessory on his saw that helps you mark out where you want to cut, I vaguely remember it, comes off the side I think, I just do the same with the bar.
I am very fortunate to be able to draw logs in from the land, our old farm, which is contiguous with the land my home is on, in the last few years I cut a bunch up from clean up, dying or dead trees, that '08 ice storm which I still have cords upon cords to get out of the woods, then there's the old woods, 11 acres on the highest point 650' above sea level, a ridge, whole bunch of leaners and similar which I avoid, going to take some time to think how to safely get those down. Went astray here, I'm just thankful for what I have when it comes firewood, me and a friend talk about it, cut quite a bit at his place east of here, and run our splitters etc.
I use the bar on the saw and narrow it in, 18" will easily work in my old Ashley HFR 25, but I prefer 16", so from a 20" bar including what is under the sprocket cover I walk along the log, eyeball 4" less, don't take my eye off that spot and put a mark with the saw.
I thought my friend had some kind of accessory on his saw that helps you mark out where you want to cut, I vaguely remember it, comes off the side I think, I just do the same with the bar.
I am very fortunate to be able to draw logs in from the land, our old farm, which is contiguous with the land my home is on, in the last few years I cut a bunch up from clean up, dying or dead trees, that '08 ice storm which I still have cords upon cords to get out of the woods, then there's the old woods, 11 acres on the highest point 650' above sea level, a ridge, whole bunch of leaners and similar which I avoid, going to take some time to think how to safely get those down. Went astray here, I'm just thankful for what I have when it comes firewood, me and a friend talk about it, cut quite a bit at his place east of here, and run our splitters etc.
tomtirediron
Member
Ok I'm paying for what we commonly measure unloaded in a log pile comparing volume area to 4x4x8 cord. Guy I get it from has a tri-axle (3 tandem sets) and sells it as 8 cords $520/load. Cuts and stacks down to about 6 1/2 cords in pile.
Bob Huntress
Member
"How good are you at eyeing the length you need?"
I"m pretty good. I"m starting to cut a bunch to run front to back of the fire box. I can fit more in that way. I am getting alright with that,also.
I"m pretty good. I"m starting to cut a bunch to run front to back of the fire box. I can fit more in that way. I am getting alright with that,also.
tomtirediron
Member
Typically all Red Oak, sometimes a little birch, occasionally a straggler basswood log. So many mills here gone belly up loggers pretty willing to sell reasonable. No-one left to buy bulk
wood. I'll post pic of pile when it shows
wood. I'll post pic of pile when it shows
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
I tape measure mine and use a lumber crayon to mark.Only takes a minute and makes for easy stacking. Don't do enough to get a Mingo marker.
That's good for you I guess right.? up here the loggers said the mills would buy hardwood culls for pulp wood, for more money than the logger can get for firewood. The mills would only take softwood for pulp 15 years ago, but they opened up to hardwood, The demand for pulp went up. That's why there was a price jump for firewood a few years ago.
Paul from MI
Well-known Member
I use the bar on the saw to estimate length. My splitter is only 18". I use a Dolmar 6800 saw with a 19" bar so it's pretty easy. You always have some short ones, but they burn too.
rusty6
Well-known Member
- Location
- East central Sask.
We seem to have pretty good luck judging the length of the blocks as we cut them with this old buzz saw. Years of experience I guess. We have acres of poplar deadwood here so it costs nothing but our labour and a little gas to get it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TM2ilg_0hO0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TM2ilg_0hO0
fixerupper
Well-known Member
When I used to cut firewood I was about as bad as there was for judging length. Had to pre-mark every log if I was to make them a consistent length. Jim
Fawteen
Well-known Member
- Location
- Downeast Maine
I took one of those flexible snowplow corner markers and made an adapter that replaces one of the chain sprocket cover nuts.
I use 16" wood, so I cut the marker off so it's 16" from the side of the chain cover to the end of the marker.
Place the saw so the end of the marker is even with the end of the log and cut.
Not precise but plenty close enough, and the only short pieces I end up with are the butt ends of the log.
I use 16" wood, so I cut the marker off so it's 16" from the side of the chain cover to the end of the marker.
Place the saw so the end of the marker is even with the end of the log and cut.
Not precise but plenty close enough, and the only short pieces I end up with are the butt ends of the log.
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