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Looking for a bigger tractor

D

Dirtdiver

New User
I'm new to this discussion board and don't know an awfull lot about tractors but I've been bitten by the bug thanks to a friend thats got about 12 of them.
He sold me a 8n and I restored that one now I'm looking for a bigger one to restore and hopefully someday soon I'll use it on a small farm in Colorado.
I've been thinking along the lines of a Farmall 450 a 400 a super mta or super m.
Also been thinking about a jd 60 jd 70, 620, 720
but don't know what I'd like better a foot or hand clutch? and how important is that torque amplifier on the Farmalls in relation to what you get out of the John Deeres?
any opinions would be appreciated
thanks
 
If you get a Farmall with a TA it is recommended that you throw 50 cents in a can every time you use it. That way you'll have the money all saved to replace it when it goes. John Deere dropped the hand clutch when they dropped the 2 cyl design. Easy to fix, though. Just pry off the belt pulley cover and there it was. JD Diesels (70, 720, 730) were some of the most fuel efficient tractor engines ever built. Good pullers, too.
 
Does the TA not last very long? will it give you a lot of problems? Is it more trouble than it's worth?
and how does that hand clutch on the John Deere hold up? do you have to pop the cover off and change it often?
I really don't know.
thanks
 
My 2 cents here. I like both but as far as overall, I'd go with a JD and a hand clutch. Also better re-sale value for the JD around my parts of the country.
TA's can be a pain, but as said above, if your going to shift a TA, don't baby it ~ shift it.
 
The mechanical TA (SMTA, hundred, 50, and 60 series) is made solely as a lower gear for use when more drawbar power is needed. It will not slow the tractor down when you pull it, it over-runs, like putting it in neutral. And that takes it out in a hurry. If you're not sure, just don't use it.

Hope you have a big checkbook if you really want a SMTA.
 
Depending on where in Colorado, which is the nearst dealer? Case-IH or JD? You'll need all sorts of spare parts, and the closest dealer would be something to condsider.
 
I have had 3 JD 60's! All 4 JD's You mentioned are fine tractors. The 70, & 720 can be Diesel. I love the hand clutch, & narrow front on these tractors. TA's on Farmalls basically reduce ground speed like shifting to a lower gear without a clutch. Nice to have in hard working condtions. JD's are more pleasant to hear. I cant stand a 4 cyl engine. Its got to have 2, or 6 in a tractor.
 
Man you are new here to ask a dumb question like that. The answer is BOTH, just had a post about a man with 10 tractors on 5acres or less. You never know when you will need a hand clutch or a tourque?amp(IH next door torq lasted 49 years and counting) live PTO one tractor just won't do it.
 
Go drive one then go drive the other and you then can make your choice. Lot depends on what you are going to do with the tractor. Hand clutch and a loader is not fun. Make sure the JD has power steering. Bach one up then see if you like pushing the hand clutch while backing up to hook up a wagon ect.You dont need a TA for a small operation as they were meant for heavy pulling when you would need to shift down.
 
How about a Farmall Super H or Super M? I'd stay away from a Farmall with the TA.

In a JD, how about an A or a B? Both simple, have hand clutch. Hand clutch has its pluses and minuses; easy to repair but tough to back up.

Green and Yellow parts will cost you more than Farmall parts.

I think that the Farmall M and the JD A were two of the greatest tractors ever made in their time.
I grew up on a Faramll M and put in a lot of hours. Got involved with the Green and Yellow later in life and my $.02 is that the JD A is truly a special machine.

But--think about it, drive them if you can and remember one thing that I learned the hard way: a cheap "fixer upper" will cost a whole lot more in the end than paying more up front for one that is more complete and that needs less work.

Anyway-enjoy!
 
Possibly a classic collector tractor that will retain it"s value because it still able to work with modern equipment?
Something with live pto, live hydraulics, an SCV and real brakes. A 12V electrical system , power steering and diesel power is ok to have too.
Thinking a late Deere 420, 430, 435, 440, 50,520,530,60,620,630,gasser 70,720,730. A gasser 1010 can be made to function. No diesel 1010"s and no 2010"s of any sort.
 
Where r u located I have both if h are close come drive them.. Out of our collection my favorite is our 70,720,730 all diesels easy to drive.. Not bad power steering and awesome fuel economy..
 
Why would you ever want a one of those clumbsy 2 bangers? I drove the neighbors 720 and thought it was the worst thing I ever had run. A 400-700-800 Case is much nicer to run. A 400-450 is a pretty good tractor but they like lots of gas. An oliver is a nice handy tractor. A wd45 isn't too bad either but a little hard to get off and on. There's alot of good tractors made in the 50's and 60's, two cyl. jd's are not among them.
 
I think the Deeres are the nicest to drive, would rather have them over the IH for most things, Case around here they are about non existant.
 

Looks to me like you are putting the cart before the horse. First you need to decide what sort of farming you will be doing, Then try to anticipate what you will be likely to drift into from there. Then you can get an idea what implements you will be likely to attain. From the type of implement you can tell what to get for a tractor. Of course you can just keep upgrading everything as you go along, and then you will have various tractors that can become toys, which is not a bad thing.
 
You asked about John Deere hand clutches. They are, as I stated, easy to work on. That is not to imply that they have to be worked on a lot. They are very durable, BUT, they do invite poor operator technique in that they are very easy to "feather" (slip) for certain applications, i.e., traveling short distances, slow creep, etc. As an example, our neighbor used to have his daughter drive his A pulling a wagon loading bales of hay that had been free dropped. Load was about half full when she said: "Daddy, I can't touch the clutch handle, it's too hot". She wasn't fully engaging the clutch by giving it that final over center poke. The clutch had gotten so hot from the constant slipping that the heat had traveled all the way up the handle. Still, the clutch continued to operate OK once cooled down. Otherwise, they are about the easiest clutch in the world to repair. No splitting the tractor or pulling the engine. Just pop off the pulley cover and replace about ten or so parts. Facings, bonded drive and slider discs, dogs, springs, T bolts, hex nuts, etc. Good idea to check everything, belt pulley brake lining, clutch lever pivot bushing and bolt, etc. JD manuals are readily available.
 
Your interest should be what will the tractor be used for on how many acres ect before you decide on a brand and model. What kind of a shed for it and the attachments to keep out of the Colo weather i lived there so i know how it can vary from day to day summer and winter. How far from town and what kind of road and drive do you have.
 
You must have never needed to back a wagon up or you sure wouldnt have liked the hand clutch or used a loader.
 
Go with an Oliver Super 77,Super 88,770 or 880 instead. They drive like a Cadillac compared to those lumber wagons you've listed. You won't be sorry.
 
If you plan on using it move up to a Deere 3010,3020,2510 or a 2020.Also if you like red a 656 or 706 are both good,oliver 1550,1650 and the 55 series are good as well.We have a 620 ad 630 and they are fun to use but not the tractors you want to run day after day long hours.
 
Red , orange and pale green parts , if you can find them.cost every bit as much or more than the green-yellow parts.
 
Having grown up on a JD620 I have no problem with a hand clutch. We also had a JD720 and early in my youth a JD-B. Still have the 620 and I'm now 50. Didn't drive one for years as it was my dad's and I use my own. When my dad dies I started using the 620 again and was quite surprised how fast I took to again. I can say some folks take to the hand clutch and 2 banger and love it and some just hate it. For using a 2 banger I would go with any of the 20 series 520, 620, 720, or the 30 series of the same things. What ever size suits your needs. I say this, due to the better more modern 3pt.

After a 8n any size you get will be a power upgrade, I'd just pick a tractor with a three point and better hydraulics.

That's my opinion and worth what you paid for it.
 
Best way to solve that is go to a second year 880 or newer. They went to a helical gear transmission instead of the spur gear. I guess I'm so used to it I don't notice the "Oliver whine" anyway.
 
You managed to take the topic over the guard rails and into the ditch again.

Would it be clearer to you if I said that "genuine" JD parts are more expensive than other brands of parts.

Sorry-guess I need to clarify more....
 
John Deere 70 and 720 had flywheel issue can be costly. The Farmall gas 450 and 400 are good tractors..The Super MTA had issues with the TA.very costly as well to repair..My opinion buy the JD 620 or Farmall Super M.
 
I have been around Farmall and internationals my whole life 460,560 and MTA and never had to replace the TA. I am turning 39 next month the MTA and 560 have been there as long as I can remember. Had to replace the clutch on 460 last year but the TA was still good.
 
Not an 88 but for a little while a pair of 77's and they were not bad but between the JD and IH for most I would prefer the JD but that is all bre 1960, after 1960 I don't think much of JD in the 6 cylinder models.
 
I'm looking to try and get about 35 to 40 acres maybe grow some hay, a vegetable garden and clean the corrals.
The 8n does all right with a blade in the corrals where I live now but with the loader it becomes a turd.
I'm just looking for a good all around tractor with a lot more power.
 
I am putting the cart before the horse but that's
just part of the addiction, right?
I'm looking to get about 35 to 40 acres, maybe grow
some hay, plow up a garden,clean corrals and take
the Grandkids on a ride someday soon.
Just looking for the best all around tractor with a
lot more power than the 8n.
 
How is Looking for a bigger tractor a dumb question?
and how are you to know if you don't ask? Like I said I'm new to a lot of this.
I don't pretend to be someone I'm not.
 
I almost pulled the trigger on a JD 60 last year at the fair but I thought I might want a little more power plus I was eyeing over a couple of super m.
How well did the 60 work for you?
 
Like most older machines the upkeep was cheaper; but a little more time consuming. All 3 were stock farm use. 1st one; 1955 model inherited from an uncle who farmed 650 acres. He used a 1952 A, the 60, & an Oliver 500. That was all he had. I farmed 400 acres with it for a couple years before upgrading to a JD 4430. A 60 is quite a bit cheaper to repair than the 4430, & normally faster to repair! I put up a lot of ear corn, & a 60 size tractor was adequate to haul wagons, & run ear corn elevators keeping up with a 2 row picker. I was happy; but not everyone will feel the same way.
 
If You think You might need more horsepower; then I would go with a JD 70, or 720. Never owned a Farmall so my information would be one sided! Once You buy with too little HP; its too late till You resale!

Sincerely, Scott
 
As you've probably figured out, you've just opened a can of worms. We all have our favorites depending on what grandpa or dad or a neighbor had when we were young & remember. I really believe that any of the tractors mentioned by all the posters would do you good. If you're wanting to restore, pick any of them, enjoy the time spent and savor the results. Just my thoughts, Keith P.S. I'm the one with 10 tractors on 2 acres of land & will porbably have more.
 
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