OT insulating machine shed

We just put up a new Morton building and are going to finish the inside, we've been looking at spray foaming the walls, but a few neighbors said to stay away from that and stay with the traditional rolls of insulation and go that route, what are your guys opionions. The pros and cons of this spray foam? Thanks
 
Spray foam is about triple the cost of fiberglass rolls.
Spray foam is for old,irregular buildings with odd spaced stringers and crooked walls. Places that are a battle to work on.

I helped a friend work on his families old 1900,s house that has been pieced onto about 5 times. Spray foam saved the day on that job. Nothing on that old house was square ,plumb, or straight. Helped fill alot of cracks and spaces too.
 
Just one persons opinion. I like fiberglass insulation (Owens Corning Brand) with a good continuos vapor barrier, covered with 5/8 inch thick "fire rated" dry wall. OR maximum thickness styrofoam and a good continuos vapor barrier, covered with 5/8 inch thick "fire rated" dry wall. Cost can be low if you "Do it Yourself". Meets most codes if they apply in your area. It will be interesting to see what other responses and/or suggestions that you get.
 
I have a friend who put 8in fiberglass then OSB and it never freezes inside. He does have a wood burner for heat when he wants it heated. Here in the IOWA City area you could call him if you would like. Send me an email and i can give you his #. My email [email protected] He has a business in town and the building is out on a farm he bought thata why i wont post his #
 
One weakness of fibreglass, particularly in farm outbuildings, is it makes an ideal home for rodents. I have seen 10 yr. old hog barns that when the inner steel is removed the fibreglass insulation is missing from at least half the wall area. Rats seem to not like burrowing in the foam. A drawback to foam, other than its cost, is its flamability. It must be covered in most occupied buildings because it will flash burn faster than a person can run out of the building. Check your building codes. Foam has a much higher insulating value than fibreglass but that is likely not a big factor in your situation. I would suggest talking with building and insulation contractors in your area.
 
I think you're a little late for the roll insulation. I like the roll insulation but if you were going to use that it should have been put over the framing before the tin was put on the building. Functionally either insulation would work fine but the spray foam is more expensive and I've heard it's highly flammable but don't know if that is true or not.
 
I think in most states you have to cover sprayed foam or styrofoam. They make a rigid insulation that can be left exposed, but it is more expensive. Check out Thermax on the internet.

Larry
 
The foundation of my new house was poured concrete in foam block. The building inspector would not pass it unless it was covered with drywall. The rest of the house was spray foam and the contractor was able to show the inspector the technical information of fire resistance so the spray foam on the floor joist sills did not have to be covered to pass for the CO.
 
I will use 1" closed cell spray foam on my Morton. Has an R value of around 7. The closed cell gets very rigid and makes the structure even stronger. The research I've done shows a high fire retardation. Used open cell spray foam on the house I just built and has nearly paid for itself in the first year in fuel savings. My personal opinion is I will never use Bat insulation again on anything.
 
Since I'm spending your money I will vote for the foam. I have been around both a fair amount and I am really impressed with it. As far as flammability, if it is covered up with an inside layer then I would not consider it an issue.
 

Just two factors that I will pass on; first, Fiberglass allows an air space under the metal where moist air can pass through, up and out. keeping it off the wood. Second, The wife's step father, was pricing fiberglass and was told about a guy that sold it installed for less than he could buy it for just delivered.
 
I would also get a recommendation from Morton. I prefer the spray foam, but they would not. It is several times the money, but provides a total air barrier.
 
If you have the money spray foam would be a great choice. It has to be warm outside in my experience for it to stick. You can get kits to do it yourself if you want but it has isocyanates in it so beware.

I know of a shed that was done. He did 50 foot wide 16 foot sidewalls and 30 foot deep. The back half is not insulated. It cost him 4500 about 5 years ago.
 
Buildings can be loaded with insulation but high ceilings and wind sweeping through the building. Will loose more beat than what migrates through the walls or ceiling.
 
Foam insulation will cost approximately twice what batt insulation will cost. If you are going to temperature control the building, foam will pay for itself in energy savings quickly and would be worth the investment. Also foam helps dampen the sound of wind and rain. I would make sure you use a reputable company that uses a quality, well tested product.
 
We have about six large farm shops type machinery buildings. Have both types and like the spray in foam BUT it must be done BEFORE you have anything in the building with exaust smoke of any degree. Something about the exaust smoke that will cause the spray to not stick near as good.
 
We have the spray on foam and love it, the spray on foam is more expensive, but it is well worth it. Our shop is tight and warm all winter long no matter what it is like outside.
 

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