What is the best way to remove a broket bolt???

dstates

Member
I got the radiator off my "52 Farmall H today, but in the process broke one of the mounting studs and left part of it in the radiator. Of course it broke off flush. [b:27426ac92c]Any suggestions on how to get it out??[/b:27426ac92c]

THANKS!

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Center punch, then left hand drill bit, then a bigger left hand drill bit until you get it out.
It will turn out eventually or you will be close enough to re-tap.
I don't like EZ-Outs for anything.
You can't really drill them out.
Make sure your punch is center!
 
1st off, stay away from the drills. Do you have a welder? Even if a stick, it's better than a drill. Weld a washer to the bolt, and then weld a nut to the washer. If you only have a stick welder, just use a bigger nut like a 1/2".

I've done this probably 100 times, both at the farm and at work and guys are still amazed by it. The heat from welding gets it hot, and then the bolts turn out easily. Only thing is to get a wrench on it quick after welding or it'll cool and you'll twist the nut off. If you do, just keep trying it and you'll get it.

To me, drilling is my absolute last option.

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
welder is the only way. easy, quick and the best way not to screw it up. for every guy who can drill it, there are 79 who will mess it up!
 
I 100% agree Don.

I was one of those guys who was amazed by this trick. Years ago, I took something like that (except if I remember correctly it already had a broken easy-out and several wasted hours into it) to my neighbor who is a pro welder/fabricator/machinist/etc. I was expecting a big bill, but he just looked at my mess, chuckled, and said "watch this!" and extracted the bolt before my jaw it his shop floor.
 
I agree with the welder plan BUT in this case I think there could be a
problem with heat getting at the solder. If I assume correctly there
may be a nut soldered into the rad. In this case I would go down the
drilling route. Even if you don't just get it right you can tap it out
easier than trying to reseal the rad.
Sam
 
I'd second the notion of staying away from too much heat. A propane torch can melt solder, if held too long on it. I'd first clean up the surface, then as carefully as you can, try to centerpunch, exactly in the center., then go the L.H. drill route, and try a spline type easy out. Hammer in the easy-out, then instead of trying to loosen, try to tighten just a little. Alternate, with trying to back it out. Also use a few drops of penetrating oil. I use a 1/4" drive air impact gun to do the easy out trick. You don't want to over power the easy out, and snap it off in the nut.
 
Before I"d do anything drastic, I"d warm it with a propane torch - just enough to melt some candle wax into the threads. Be suprised how much this will ease the process.
 
Yes, the candle wax trick does have it's merits. It can replace penetrating oil, in the method I described below.
 

Looks like a fragile area. If clearances allow, I'd weld a stud onto a plate and solder the assembly onto the radiator.
 

You mentioned having the radiator done, just have the shop fix it. I think the plate is soldered onto the inside of the tank so heat will be a problem.

If you break the seal you will have to have the rad re-cored as the original core crimps over the tank.

You should have heated the nut before twisting the stud off.
 
Take a washer,smaller than the bolt. Weld it to the bolt on the inside of the washer. That will keep the heat away from the brass mostly. Then weld a nut to the washer around the outside of the nut. The heat will loosen the bolt. Put a wrench on the nut and I'll bet it will turn right out.
 
Set it up on a milling machine, pickup the center of broken stud, drill and re tap. The only sure way of removal.
 
(quoted from post at 11:45:30 11/18/12) Take a washer,smaller than the bolt. Weld it to the bolt on the inside of the washer. That will keep the heat away from the brass mostly. Then weld a nut to the washer around the outside of the nut. The heat will loosen the bolt. Put a wrench on the nut and I'll bet it will turn right out.

On a couple of these I have seen where the rad shops have soldered the stud in to seal a loose plate in the tank, but trying the welding trick has nothing to loose at this point.
 
Just looking at the condition Of the radiator I think i would use
center punch to find the center remember to get the center of
the bolt not the theads as they are not the center since one
side of the threads is buried in the block.then drill a small hole
and work up to the proper drill size for the tap now tap the
threads out watching that you follow the old thread pattern. Be
carful take your time and keep checking your progress to
make sure that you are centered. Good luck
Walt
PS I was trained as a machinest in the Navy and was taught
how to remove stubborn bolts and spent four years on board a
ship where I got lots of experience doing this very same thing.
 
I have used all of the methods mentioned, except one. I will NOT use an easy-out on anything. By nature they expand the broken bolt, just making it tighter. I don't have a wire welder, so I use the washer-nut method or drill and retap the hole. My buddy with a wire welder can build up a broken bolt until he can get hold of the weld with vise grips and the heat loosens it to where he can easily remove the broken part.
 
rrlund has posted the method that works best for me. To remove a bolt, broken or otherwise, it must be moved. It must have a way to be gripped for turning it. The heat expands it-- which is movement. Usually turns out easily.
 

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