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4030 tractor starting

R

Ranhil

Member
owned the tractor for several years, always started
and cranked well. Started cranking slower. Bought
new batteries, cleaned cables, changes some ends.
Still cranks slow. Any thoughts before I start
buying solenoid / starter?

thanks
 
If you have new batteries and good cables and connections it sounds like the starter motor is dragging. You might check around there are shops that rebuild starters and alternators quite reasonably. Not to mention much cheaper than new/rebuilt from deere.
 
thanks for quick response. Wondering if I still have a bad connection somewhere. Gauge does not show high amps and goes way down when I crank. Confused.... Have new batteries and cleaned all ends and or changed them.
 
I don't know just how that bugger's wired,but I had two different experiences lately with them on an Oliver 1850 and a White 2-135.
They were both dragging and turning slow. The White would pick up a little speed if you held on it.
I had the one for the Oliver rebuilt first. Cost me $130 for a total rebuild. Spins like a wild thing,starts excellent.

The White was a different story. Cost me $120,put it back on,no change. When I was filling silo,it straightened itself out,worked normal. The first real cold morning,it would barely turn. I held it a little too long and the solenoid stuck and it kept turning. I got off,grabbed a wrench out of the toolbox,hit the solenoid and it stopped. BUT,there's a big ground cable that comes off the end of that starter and hooks to the block. That cable was smoking at the bolt that held it to the block. I could wiggle it all over. I tightened it up and it's right as rain now.
Probably didn't even need the $120 rebuild.
 
Remove all of the battery cables. Then run them through your hands and see if any place on them is stiffer than the rest of the cable. I have had several over the years that had corroded under the insulation. They looked fine on the out side but where full of corrosion inside. That made them have high resistance.

If the cables check out then remove the starter. Then just take it apart. They are not hard to disassemble. Many times they just need the armature cleaned up and a new set of brushes installed. The brushes cost around $10.

Then take the solenoid apart. There is a large contact in the end plate. They get burn spots on them when the starter engages. I just take a flat file and reshape them. Also clean the terminal that the battery cables hook to.

PS if it is a Delco solenoid they come apart. If it is a Nependeso one then you have to replace it. The end cap is soldered on and will not come apart.
 
thanks for all the ideas! Batteries checked out fine when I put them in. Understand the hydraulic leak idea, but still think it is electrical because the gauge drops even when I hit ether button. Just confusing as I checked all cables over. Cable that runs under cab is the one I did not really want to pull out and check, but might be my problem...... changed ends and cleaned them good.
 
I had the battery cable problem on a 1946 Farmall H from the starter switch to the starter. Replaced it around 1996 or so. I cut the insulation on one of the old cables, it was solid rust.
 
You can either randomly throw hundreds of $$$ of parts on the tractor or use a $19.99 multi meter and find the problem.
Why are you hammering the engine with ether instead of using a block heater.
 
don't use the ether button to start it. Don't even have a can hooked onto it. But I did use it out of curiousity to see what the gauge would do.
 
Changed ends? I'd look for trouble there. Replace the cables that you "changed ends" on with heavy factory cables, plus check the starter.
 
Changed ends???? Are you using the cheap clamp on ends on the cross over cable??? If you are then that is more than likely your problem. They are not made for high amp draw use.
 
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