Using copper tubing for fuel lines??

Suffolk1

Member
I am working on an older combine and cleaning up a lot of the previous owners' alterations or emergency repairs. Has a six cylinder gas engine and the mechanical fuel pump has been replaced with an electric fuel pump. The fuel line from the fuel tank to the carburetor consists of a long, cobbled together, combination of steel line, 1/8 inch copper tubing, and 1/4 inch flexible fuel line hose. By relocating the electric fuel pump, I can cut the overall length of the fuel line by 1/2 or 2/3. Obviously the quickest and simplest solution is to use flexible fuel line hose, but the durability is not the best for the long haul. It is more difficult to shape and bend the steel tubing without kinking for a custom fit job and I don't have the tools to make the double flares on the ends. Are there any disadvantages to using copper tubing for the fuel line? It's much easier to cut, bend, and shape for a neat fit. Also, what would be preferred for fuel lines--flared fittings or compression fittings? Thanks for your input or experiences.
 
flex 1/4 or 5/16 copper tubing. flare fittings. that is what i would use. copper is used on the old Case tractors.
 
i/8th inch is too small for the engine, that needs to be out of there completely, next remember most electric fuel pumps are "pushers" not "pullers" they need to be as close to the fuel tank as praticle, copper line will work, if flared on its ends and used with rubber hose ends, but it will be high maintenance, and prone to leaks, if you need something quick to finish your harvest, use it, but this winter id replace that with steel brake line tubing, a bender for that is a couple bucks at the parts store, and numerous fittings are available for it so you can build a leak proof fuel line that will probably last the life of the machine 1/4 inch minimum size for a 6 cylinder engine, 5/16th is better, but all stores may not carry it
 
Brake lines work much better,they come in many ready to use sizes and can cut them easily to put in a filter inline.Also the fittings will take loosening and tightning many,many times without leaking.
 
Use steel brake line, and use a small belt pulley to bend it without kinking - it's so easy you'll never do it any other way.

I use a pulley off an old lathe - the "adjustable" kind with three different diameters. Those three sizes are perfect for virtually every bend I've ever had to do. Never had a kink.
 
Steel line isn't all that hard to deal with. I've used a bunch of it through the years on military vehicle restorations. When you bend it you slowly work it around with your hands. If you bend it like you would a piece of wire it will kink on you. Like others said, you can get any pre-made length at your local auto parts store up to, I think, five feet? You can also get a cheap tubing bender for just a few bucks at the auto store.

Let's think about what would happen if the flare on a copper line cracks at the engine and sprays fuel on a piping hot engine. If it's diesel you probably won't burn, though I did see it happen once on a L2 Gleaner. If it's gasoline, how do you spell fireball? Jim
 
Use steel line. Copper has a tendency to crack in high vibration applications and a combine is a high vibration machine.

Rick
 
(quoted from post at 06:32:12 10/30/12) Use steel line. Copper has a tendency to crack in high vibration applications and a combine is a high vibration machine.

Rick

Exactly!! Copper tubing should never be used for fuel lines, brake lines, etc. on any automotive application. I know some of you folks have done it, and so far it is working, but when it fails, and it will fail, there could be some real fire issues.

If you don't want to use steel, then use rubber, and secure it so it can't rub and chafe.
 
JRSutton: I"m a 60 year old fart who owns a bunch of "properly sized" tubing benders.... Your pulley method is a first rate idea; should be able to bend the tube to a larger radius, with professional results... Thanks
 

Steel is a Piece of Cake, once you have had to bend and Fit Stainless tubing...
Stainless tubing is SO hard to bend and fit, you would not believe it..!
Had an older friend who ALWAYS changed ALL metal Brake lines to Stainless on all of his vehicles..
He Loved Stainless..even made his own Stainless exhaust systems when they need a new one..
He would have his Kids under the vehicles, painting Hot Tar on the under-side of the floor..!!

Ron..
 
there are a lot of tractors with factory compression fittings, use steel line and a cheap bender(7.00 bucks)
 
agreed, but for me, I had an extra pulley - and it gives me three different radii to choose from.

So they may be cheap, but free is even cheaper.

The results are as professional as any "real" bender - in fact, you don't get the little crimp the tab sometimes gives the tubing from a real bender, so I might argue there results are even better.

Do it a few times, and you'll find it's so easy and satisfying to do that you'll want to put more bends in the line than you really need.
 
Be sure it's well insured... Copper will work harden and crack. I'd use steel or soft fuel line. Keep the alcohol out of it and the soft line will last fine.

Rod
 
I have read all the posts and am surprised that no one mentions copper nickel tubing.A local mechanic showed me how easy it can be formed by hand years ago.Import autos use it.Only the US permits the use of crap steel brake tubing that fails in 100000 miles.I have seen failures in 60000 miles.
 
Harbor Freight sells a double-flare tool for 20 bucks. That said, it's been my experience that cheap flaring tools don't work. So last week I shelled out 85 bucks for a Ridgid double-flare tool and it works flawlessly.
 

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