LJD or any other diesel techs...

i bought a '92 F250 other day with the 7.3 IDI...only way to shut it down is put it in 5th and stall it...kid i got it from said he heard it was same kill solenoid as on some of the GM diesels...you got any idea on a part number? i called Ford and they say it doesnt have a fuel shutoff...just a idle solenoid...i dont see anything resembling a idle device.
also if you know of a breakdown of pump so i can replace this?
thanx

I think it is just a newer version of the regular Stanadyne DB injection pump. They have a coil inside the top cover. You need to check and see if the truck's switch is bad sending power to the coil all of the time. Just unplug the wire on the top of the injection pump and see if it dies.

I have not messed with many Fords but on the tractors you just remove the top cover to replace the shut off coil.

I agree with JDseller. Ford has to have fuel control solenoid similar to Chevy & Dodge so as to be able to kill engine with ign switch. I know for sure my 6.5 Chevy had one.

I know for a fact it has a fuel shutoff- I had to jumper mine from the battery when my ignition switch went South. One hot wire to the shutoff on the pump and a screwdriver to the starter solenoid and she was running fine.

It uses the same basic Stanadyne/Roosamaster/DB2 pump that GM used on the 6.2s and early 6.5s. It just turns the opposite direction since the Ford/International Harvester engine has a gear-drive cam instead of a chain drive.

Solenoid is the same but - I doubt your's is bad. The solenoid uses an electromagnet to pull linkage out of the way - so the pump metering valve can swing over to "run" position. If the electro-magnet went bad - the vehicle would not run. In your case with no shut-off - the linkage is probably just sticking and not returning to "off" when you turn off the key. There's a little spring that does that job.

I assume you've already tried to just pull the power wire off the pump and it still runs?

If so, I'd pull the top cover off (via three small 10/32" bolts and see what is going on.

If pulling the wire off the pump DOES make the engine shut down - then you've got a wiring problem. On some years - a bad diode in the alternator can cause power to keep getting to that pump wire after the key is off.

If you need new parts - US Diesel is the easiest place to buy. They sell to anyone and ship fast.

www.usdiesel.com US Diesel in Fort Worth Texas is a dealer and will ship. 800-328-0037

By the way -those solenoids are always for sale on Ebay also.

If it was mine - I'd just yank it apart and fix it. It can't be an electrical problem if pulling that wire does not shut it down.

Can I jump in here with a question???
I have a Hough loader with a 6 cylinder Cummins---I have to get off the loader and just backout a screw a tiny bit to shut down.
This is an older loader maybe 60's.

Thanks for any help.

What pump? Bosch distributor/rotary or in-line? Also - what screw are you backing out? Sounds like maybe you're just backing out the idle-adjustment screw and making it stall?

If you want to blow $70 on a solenoid you probably do not need - here is one of many on Ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SHUT-OFF-SOLENOID-FOR-STANADYNE-INJECTION-PUMPS-12-volt-/130777947929?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e72f91f19&vxp=mtr

Are you talking about the litle screw with the large head that is in the fuel solenoid on top of the PT pump? If so your fuel solenoid is bad or you have a power problem with the wire that activates it.

It is the one John B is talking about.

ok,thats info i needed...havent even lifted hood on truck since i bought it...ran good and drove good and since it will be used very little, i can live with the stalling to kill for awhile...now that i know what to look for,i can fix it.
thanx again
chuck