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Stuck Oliver Super 88

O

Old Bob

Member
I posted a few days ago about my Super 88 Oliver that is stuck. Tractor has been in a barn out of the weather for 4 or 5 years. Ran when I put it in the barn. Had to stick from condensation.

Now for my question: I have the cylinders soaking with penetrating fluid, transmission fluid, diesel fuel, etc. I jacked up one of the rear wheels and attached a stick of square tubing about 12 feet long to the wheel by bolting it to the hub bolts in the center of the wheel. Then I put the tractor in road gear and placed a couple of concrete blocks on the end of the square tubing. The blocks are approximately 3 feet off the ground. When I moved the square tubing up and down the wheel that was not jacked up and was sitting on the ground spun in the opposite direction of the wheel that was jacked up. What do I need to do to make the leverage from the square tubing transfer to the engine, rather than spinning the wheel that is not jacked up and is sitting on the ground??
 
The tire thing is at best a joke. Stick a 12 volt battery in it and use short fast taps on the starter button with the plugs out and it should pop free. I have done many like that and NEVER hurt any thing but maybe a couple push rods from stuck valves
 
Lock the brake on the opposite side and chock it real good. But the gear reduction through the transmission will be working against you. You're better off trying to get to the crankshaft or somewhere forward of the transmission to turn the engine over...
 
your just wasting time. takes 1 hr to pull head and then you have access to the problem. you can clean rust out cyl's, and give it a little hone and shine er back up and call it a cheap fix. all depends may need reringing and so on. but at least you know first hand the condition of engine. why would you want the pistons scoring up the cyl's more with rust getting stuck in the rings. i can free up an engine faster this way than waiting weeks for some potion to take effect and usually never works.
 
I jack up one wheel and bang it forward and back ( not too hard)in high gear, no lever. This will eventually work with 50/50 ATF and Acetone. Always works for me.
 
Remove the starter and use a pry bar on the ring gear,do not pry to hard or you may break a tooth off. It worked for me many times. DON
 
A few days of soaking with all the "secret" concotions you can come up with, leave the plugs out and give it a little tug.
If you bend a valve pull the head, if not, put the plugs in and clean the carb. I haven't pulled a head in 20 years on a machine that was running and in a shed locked up, except for a 520 that drained all the gas into the crankcase once.
 
(quoted from post at 21:08:55 10/08/12) your just wasting time. takes 1 hr to pull head and then you have access to the problem. you can clean rust out cyl's, and give it a little hone and shine er back up and call it a cheap fix. all depends may need reringing and so on. but at least you know first hand the condition of engine. why would you want the pistons scoring up the cyl's more with rust getting stuck in the rings. i can free up an engine faster this way than waiting weeks for some potion to take effect and usually never works.
Click to expand...

What do you do about the rust you can't get to in the cylinder? That will do as much damage as the rust you removed.
 
So when you pluued the plugs what did the cycl walls look like. If they are rusty quit messing around and pull the head all the snake oil in the world will not remove the rust. Were the plugs rusty??
 
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