allis 190xt vs 966 international witch to buy?

Im looking for a tractor that I can big round bale with. I have been watching the ads and keeping my eyes open for a while. I am gonna look at a 966 international that has around 7k hours. Guy says nothing mechanically wrong. Tires are 50%. Tin is decent. Has a cab. He is asking $7500. So far this is all I know. Also gonna look at an Allis 190xt. It has had a complete overhaul. New clutch and rebuilt turbo. Paint is real good and tires are 80%. He says it has never jumped out of gear. He is asking $6700. What do you think? Any help is appreciated.
 
I'd go with the 966 hands down.Even a worn out 966
is still more tractor than the AC.and its 5 to 10
years newer...
 
In about 1974 we traded in a One Ninety XT at the
dealership. When ever I got a little upset with the
way the red tractors were made, I would go out and
walk around that Allis, realize it could be one of
them I had to work on, and get back to work.
 
I am a Allis guy but the 966 would be better to
bale with. The Allis doesn't have a independent
pto. It has a continuous pto. You have to push on
the clutch to put it in gear. then put the power
director in neutral to stop forward motion, and
keep the pto turning. With our baler 1470 Gehl,
you have to shut the pto off every bale and back
up to kick the bale out. A 6080 AC would be just
right.What we use. Also a 966 is notorious for
being a bad shiftier. A JD is synchronized, or has
a power-shift. 4020
 
What the Hello do you mean bad shifter . If they shift hard it is because some idiot did not stay up on clutch and dump valve adjustment . same as the 06 and up . Go with the 966 and the plus side to a International you can replace the hyd pumps three time to the cost of one pump on a 190 . All the pumps on a 966 .
 
if the 966 has a hydraulic clutch assist, it would be a big help. otherwise, your left leg will be hurting the first few days of baling, if you have to stop while the bale ties and ejects. btdt. i hope the 966 also has a water filter.
my first choice for baling would be a 656 or bigger hydro. also my 2nd and 3rd choices...
 
An AC XT190 would be a miserable tractor on a round baler. They do not have independent PTO. you have to use the Hi/Lo/hand clutch to stop the tractor motion. Plus unless everything is just right shifting them into reverse with the PTO running is a nightmare.

Just watch out for the TA on that IH 986. Set in the cab and look out the back at the draw bar. Shift it a few times as well. They are not the nicest shifting tractor either. You have to be at a complete dead stop or you will be grinding gears to get to reverse.

I was all red until the IH 86 series came out. I owned a new IH 1086 for six months. It was the roughest riding tractor I ever owned. Plus after the 4th or 5th time hanging up side down with my pants caught on the darn gear shift I traded it in on a new JD 4440. I still have that tractor and love it.

I don't know your budget but I would not really like either of these to bale with. If you are needing a cheaper tractor I would look for a White 2-105. They have a descent cab and the three speed shift is nice on a baler. The Perkins engine will last life time. They drive and ride well. The only down side to them is the Agco parts are terrible in price. Guys that think JD is bad need to go buy some from Agco.
 
Justin, Go with the 966! I have on with a IH 2350 loader. Heck of a combination. If this one doesn't have the Hydrolic Clutch Assist. You should be able to get all parts to put one from another 966 or 1066 onto this one!
Since you are going to move Round bales!!!!!......
LOSE THE Front Ag Tires. Get a set of Airplane tires and rims, They will handle Big Round Bales hands down better than the Ag tires!!! Will save you a lot of headaches in the future!!!
Hope this helps,
Later,
John A.
 
a 966 is a decent choice. They do shift pretty bad and getting in
reverse can be a pain. Make sure the TA is not about to go out.

I will second the post below on looking for a 2-105. 3 or 4 guys
around here round bale with a 2-105. Then you would have
independent PTO, a better shifting tractor than the 966, and still a
very dependable 354 perkins engine.
 
I've owned a 190 XT and a 1206 IH (very close to a 966). The 966 hands down! I think the 190 looks better......but what a POS! You are controlling the power director, hydraulics and shifting with your right hand all at one time! And lord help you if you need to manure the PD into N to keep the PTO running while needing to operate the hydraulics at the same time. I always felt that I needed a 3rd arm. IH wasn't perfect but a far cry better than AC. The jumping out of gear.....the AC has to be at a complete stop to shift gears. If not the jumping out of gear thing will rear it's ugly head. The IH is supposed to be at a dead stop too but is more forgiving. Every tractor brand has it's faults but you can see that in average resale value. Here a 966 that is decent with fair to good rubber is an 7K or better tractor wile the 190's, all series, is at best a 6K tractor. From the same era the JD 4020 is an 8K or higher unit.

Rick
 
Close but no cigar. I am his Uncle. LOL I am using his computer though. I hang out in his shop. He is three years older than me. I was a late surprise for my mother.

I don't have Internet at my house. He has a nice big Office in his shop. Several of us old farts loaf there off and on. I make the coffee.

I am full retired out of forty years in a factory. Farmed in the past and collect old iron now. I am mainly just watching him work now. LOL
 
966. If you need to do any amount of road travel. The 966 will go down the road way faster than a 190. If your fields are small and odd shaped you will appreciate the indipendet PTO.
 
966 Shifts Hard? Evidently you need to read, understand, and apply the instructions in the owners manual. If you keep the clutch, dump valve and transmission brake adjusted per instructions they shift with no problem.
 
Of the 2 tractors you mention the 966 would be a better choice. I've run the red ones and they dont shift as bad as some people claim. The allis has short comings as mentioned by others. You could move up to an Allis 7000 and get a good road gear and independent PTO. Personaly I prefer Deere or Ford, have you considered a 7700 or 8700 Ford?
 
966, used to own one, great tractor. The only problem I see is
the cab. Is it a factory cab or aftermarket? The first thing I
would do is junk the cab and put on a set of fenders. Hard
shifting was mentioned by other posters, this is true because
things are not adjusted like they are supposed to be.
 
Yes I had a AC 200 just about the same as a AC XT 190. If you could just stop and dump then it would not be too bad but we don't use kicker bars or ramps here. The hills are so steep that you usually have to back up and dump the bale at an angle. I used my neighbor's Hesston 5500 baler on the AC 200. At the time it was the only tractor I had with Pioneer couplers. It was not a fun day baling with it. So I would not recommend it to anyone for baling.


Plus I am not a fan of having to use a hand clutch. It makes operating them a PIA. You will forget half the time and push the main clutch in and stop everything. There not designing tractor without the need to use a hand clutch was one of the factors in AC's demise. Then the problems and poor design of the 7000 series finished them off. The combine side carried the company for a long time but eventually the never up dating the design issue took that out of the market too. I have read that the company was so hard up on money that they could not do as much R&D to change the equipment. It was a shame as they had innovative equipment in the 1950s but they never followed up on that.
 
(quoted from post at 23:29:17 09/13/12) Ever baled with a 190? Its a great baling tractor just put the hand clutch into neutral when you stop to make a bale never have to take it out of gear.

I've baled with both, the IH is much easier.

Rick
 
I say keep looking. There are a lot of good brands out there, maybe a case 1070, it has a nice factory cab, JD 4030, MF 1100 series, Ford 7000 and 8000 series, Ac 7000 series. I don't know what else you will use it for, but every tractor made was made to work. I find it hard to argue which is the best, for one that works great for one thing the other just works better on something else, just my past experience. Find what you like best.
Tom
P.S They all break down.
 
I'd agree.. you can get a lot of tractor in the mid-70's Case's for less $. Built well with all the modern features. Olivers/white too like a 1850 Diesel or a 2-105.

Buyer beware on anything you get... worn out and abused none are worth a hooooot.
 
Any of the IH66 series tractors are good ones but he is a little high on his price. There is one on photo ads in SD for $3K. With worn rubber a good 966 is worth about $5K.
 
I havent own one, just ran one at work. They have 2 1066's and a 1466 and an 806 and they all shift pretty tough. All of their non- IH tractors shift fine.

I don't doubt that your IH's shift fine, I am just saying my cousins are not nearly the only ones who have had minor issues.
 
That's funny, we had a 786, two 1066's, 2+2, and a CIH 4240 with dual remotes, and my uncle would use the 190 to pull the 1470 every year. You sit up high out of the engine heat, so it beat the CIH there. The 786 would develop shifter problems when round baling. (and I don't recall anyone EVER hanging upside down, or hanging at all, by their pants from the shifter, so I wonder how one manages that?)

The good thing about the 190 is that if you plug the baler, you just pull uphill, hit the clutch and engage the PTO, then as you ease it downhill backwards, feather the hand clutch to turn the baler backwards.

He'd throw the hand clutch to N, tie the bale, hit the clutch, dump the bale, let the clutch out, lower the gate, when it latched, use the hand clutch to start moving. If you opened the gate with the PTO on, or lowered it with the PTO off, you'd mess up the belts.
 
What's all this about clutch and dump valve adjustment? We almost never adjusted the clutch. And never had any problems with shifting. If set properly when the new TA was put in we didn't even have to adjust anything on the 1066's and 1566, which did all of our heavy tillage, mowing and chopping, plus manure spreading all winter, and two of them were turned WAY up, the clutch would be just fine even after the TA went out a month after its warranty expired.

I'm curious how guys need to do so much work on keeping their clutches in adjustment.
 
Must have needed to pull your pants up or something. Grandpa bought a new 786 and we never ended up with anyone hanging, much less upside down, from the shifter. What I hated most about it was that you ended up taking a dust bath going down the road because the windshield drafted it up onto the back of your neck.
 

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