1964 Ford 1/2 ton king pin job started problems big time

old

Well-known Member
Well not sure if the guy has the correct parts or what but, I got the old one out on the drivers side. Tried to install the new one and first off the brass bushing as I hammered the pin in peeled a lot of brass off of it. Next got to the point that the pin is in about 1/3 of the way and will not go in more and that is with an 8lbs hammer. The part and company is this Thrayer or Trayer #TPTK411 30354-2834 so if any body know is this the correct pins?? Have a set on order and will be in on Tuesday so I can compare to see if theses are right or wrong or what. Yes I reamed things out as was told to do with a brake hone etc and no go. Stopped this after noon due to rain and could not post this earlier due to lighting
 
The bushings are intended to be several thousandths smaller than the final size. The use of a king pin reamer is always needed. This is designed with a guide mandrill shaft that fits the small diameter and passes through both bushings while reaming the first. , Then it is continued through the lower bushing. The top part of the reamer is long enough to continue alignment as it cuts the lower bushing. You are OK as the reamer will fix the bushings you still have installed. Jim
 
Brake hone will only polish and maybe remove .001. You need the reamer not the BFH.
Glad to see someone got rain. Somehow we got .9 a few nights ago.
 
Well that would be fine if I could find a reamer. I did the parts store call about it today and they said no such tool is to be had and said use the brake hone to do it. As of right now I have the pin in about 1/3 of the way and it will not go in more so figure I will have to drive it back out and start over again and hope it works out. Been way to many years since I did one so getting a bit foggy on how we did it the last time say 25 plus years ago
 
Found a bunch on Ebay.
If you grind 5 groove flutes into the old pin so that the grooves are like splines, then weld a 1/2 inch bolt to the opposite end. Use the bolt to chuck it into a 1/2" drill. Use cutting fluid, to ease it through. Jim Jim
 
Sort of makes me wonder if I have the tool and just do not know it. LOL I have a ream that is about the right size just never knew what it was for . It is a straight cut ream about the size if the king pin so maybe I have one just never knew what it was and will have to check it out tomorrow
 
KING PINS ARE NEVER HAMMERED IN.You need and easy slip fit.If you fit too tight theres no room for grease.The old kits had a driver / reamer included.You need a dial caliper to measure the pin.Then find an adjustable reamer and set it .002 over the pin size.Now you know why I told you to pass on the job.I used long reamers on king pins and electric motor bushings over 50 years ago.Take the spindles and pin kit to a machine shop and have it done.
 
You need mikes and inside hole guages and a reamer to get the bushings the rite size before installing king pins. You dont just install new bushings and then drive the pins in.
 
Its plain that hes never done the job before and ignored advise on how to do it right.I was taught machine work at 17 and worked with mechanics that were glad to teach a kid new skills.
 
As was mentioned in the orig post, take the splindles, busings and pins to the machine shop, they will press the bushing in and ream them to fit.
 
Old, if you get in a bind, let me know what size you need and I will loan you one. I have a full set that were my dads. You need to install the bushings, then ream them to size.
 
If you drive the king pins in you will never be able to turn the steering wheel. Be the hardest steering truck you ever drove!
 
The bushing is not the problem area it is the axle that I am hung up in. Yes the bushing it tight but once I got that done and started into the axle it self that is where it got to tight and am thinking he had to wrong set of pin
 
I may have to get with you on that. I plan to talk to a friend today who at one time had his own shop but now is a manager at the O'Reilly's store in town and see if he has the tool. I called O'Reilly's yesterday ado see about getting a true ream and they said no such tool and you do it with a brake hone which made me wonder what the heck they where talking about. The big problem is that the pin will not go into the axle. I have it threw the top bushing and while tight I can turn it but the axle that is another story
 
I did that but this pin just is way to tight in the axle hole so have another set of pins on order because I do not think this is the correct pins for this truck
 
you do know you have to ream them after installing?theres a reamer made just for that to keep them straight.the way we did it was to install all bushings in the axle and spindle, set spindle on the axle then run the reamer through the whole thing.bushings were made purposly undersized to fit the reamer.not the king pin.this held it all straight as you reamed the bushings.after you ran reamer through most of the time pin would fall in place.if not you might have to have a finish reamer also.theoreticaly your line boring it to your pin size.I ve only seen one not need reaming,and that was on a 48 dodge.why it fit i cannot say.they can be a real pta sometimes which is why you find so many on the road worn out.basicaly this why you see so many front end shops ,not many shade tree guys wanted to spend the time to buy the reamers and things to do a job they never would do again on that vehicle. try ford truck .com.. you might find a used reamer there.
 
Yes the bushings need to be reamed but the axle should not need to be other then to clean out the rust. This one the pin is to big and will not slip down into the axle with out a extra big hammer which is not the correct way, Have a set on order and will then have the spindle bushings reamed by the same place I get the king pins from
 
Old: I do old pick up restore jobs. I have had to use a fifty ton press on the king pins and bushings on the front ends. The Ford service manual says that the Ford factory tool is rated at 60 tons.

I have never done a set that could have been done with a hammer. Even then that would swell the pin where it would be too tight in the pivot after beating it in.
 

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