how do you remove hydraulic line shaft from hub?

the pump on my 8N malfunctioned. I got that fixed but discovered that the shaft that is supposed to power it does not. The shaft currently moves at a slower rotational speed than the engine. I was told that the shaft was made to strip if the pump seized in order to protect the engine.
I am trying to remove the shaft from the hydrauic hub but I have not been successful so far. I removed the nuts connecting the hyrdraulic hub. I have dropped the pump so the shaft can pull out. But I have not been able get the shaft out. Sometimes the shaft turns/spins freely if it is pulled out a little bit from the hub and other times it won"t budge.
It was suggested that I have to get what is left of the spline lined up so that it can pull out of the hub, but I have been trying slight rotations to see if I can get it lined up but it has not worked.
What is the trick to removing the shaft under this situation.
Thank you very much. I really need my front end loader.
Carolyn Diesel 8N

If I remember correctly the PTO runs through the pump to power it. Removing the four bolts from around the PTO shaft should loosen it so it can just be pulled out of the rear of the tractor. Often the shaft will have taken on a twist over the years and in that case the shaft must be cut in front of the pump and replaced.
I hope I am talking about the same thing as you are. Go over to the N board,there are guys over there that could tell you way more than you would ever want to know about your machine.

Are you talking about the internal hydrolick pump for the 3 point hitch that can be plumed to run a front loader and you have to tie the lift arms down for it to work as the other poster is refering to OR the front crankshaft mounted pump that is a part of the front loader that could cause problems if it seized but the internal I see no wat that could cause engine problems as that system is sturdy enough to put through all the power that tractor could put out for running a combine or simular and at times they would stop so quick it would kill the tractor engine.

If the splines are bad the splines in the hub are probably not right either so the remaining splines on the shaft will not slide out. With the nuts removed you should be able to remove the hub and see what is going on.

Bolt the hub back on to the crank shaft pulley. Then with a pair of vice grips etc grab the shaft and turn and pull at the same time. Some times you have to really pull hard or even use a hammer on the grips. I have had the same problem from time to time on a couple loaders I have.
What happens is the splines on the shaft strip out but leaves some at he end of the shaft that are not messed up so they do not want to slip out of the hub

Carolyn........back in the days, farmers discovered they could "trick" the internal weaksister hydraulic pump to power a FEL (frontend loader) out the corner pressure test port by chaining down the 3-point lift arms.

Howsomevers; that is NOT yer stated problem. Someone has "brushhogged" without an ORC (over running coupler) and has "TWISTED" the splines thru the hydraulic pump. Thus you can NEVER gitt'chur PTO shaft out without CUTTING it out. New PTO shaft with seals and bearings, $125 (cheap)

Would it surprize you to learn yer PTO is supposed to turn slower than yer engine??? 2200rpms engine equal 540rpms PTO. Ittza innna the BOOK. Squander $25 (cheap) fer the I&T FO-4 repair manual. It even has pictures fer the reading challenged ........respectfully, Dell the amazed

Greetings,
Thank you for such a fast response. The pump is in the front of the tractor and the shaft comes through a small hole in the front of the tractor to couple to the pump. The back end of the shaft goes into a hydraulic hub attached to the front of the engine. It is separate from the three point hitch in back. That one works just fine.
When I run the engine, the shaft runs at a significantly lower speed than the engine. When I uncouple the shaft from the pump, it turns at the same speed as the engine. The current speed which the shaft turns is too slow to power the pump, it turns slowly, then speed up a turn, then slow again.
Since the shaft is running through the front of the tractor, I can not really get a good view to see what is going on. I can tell that the shaft does spin freely inside the hub. I know someone mentioned cutting the shaft, but the space is so tight.
It is my understanding that I need to pull the shaft out the front of the tractor, which once it is out, will allow me to remove the hub from the engine area. This is where I am stuck.
I will try "Old"'s recommendation to grab and try to pull out, but I have been trying that without any luck. Very tight space and limited angles. Any other suggestions on how to accomplish this - the tricks would be appreciated. I have the coupler flange on the end that connects to the pump. I removed the screw that holds it on, but it would not budge. Do you get that off by tapping it on all sides?
I understand what I need to do...I just need to know how to get it done.
Thank you,
Carolyn Diesel 8N

I have had to get rougher than Old says he has. I do like Old stated. Grip the pump shaft and pull and turn. You can usually feel when it lines up with the splines. Then it might pull out like Old said. I have had them not come out easily. I have a pair of Vice Grips made to fit my slide hammer set. I usually can get them to bring the old stripped shaft out. If you can not get it to come out any of these ways you will have to cut the shaft. On the ones I have worked on there is room to VERY carefully reach in with a torch and cut the shaft. The ones I did where all heat treated so they would not cut with a Saws all metal blade. After the shaft is cut you can remove the shaft and then the hub.

IF you really need it, as in an emergency, then I have welded the shaft to the hub. It usually will not last real long as the weld usually cracks but it will work for a short time welded. If you do weld it it means that you will have to cut the shaft to get it out to repair it correctly.

I saw a guy that was afraid to cut the shaft with a torch remove the whole front end on the tractor to get the shaft out. That is way more work than I would do to change one.

After hearing from you, I hooked my come along to the front of the shaft and gently applied pressure. It pulled out so that part is done. I wanted to get the hub out to see if it was damaged, but I can not get it to clear the bolts and the front cowling.
I am afraid of damaging the bolts that hold the hub in place. I can get the bottom of the hub clear, but the bolts on top do not clear. I have tried it with two bolts on top, square. I thought I would check with you to see if it would make a difference if I tried to get the bolts to stop in a diamond/compass - one bolt on top, one on bottom and one on either side.
Thank you,
Carolyn Diesel 8N

Ya they do not leave much room to work on them. What you pretty much need to do is get the bolts out of the hub which is not easy to do and then the hub will slip out. If the spline shaft is bad I can tell you right now the hub is also and you should replace then as a matched set. I learned the hard way years ago if you just replace the shaft you will be replacing it again very soon because the hub will eat the new shaft to pieces fast. Last one I did on an 8N I ended up removing the hood and radiator and then loosening up the front axle mount. Not a fun job I know because I have done it a number of times over the years.